0w-30???

[f-rice]

has anyone used the new 0w-30 Mobil-1 . i was reading the jug at walmart the other day, it says it exceeds all 5w-30 and 10w-30 specs. and gets you better gas mileage. any ideas???

 

[Silver Bullet]

A quick look at Mobil website shows it meets 12 industry specs/standards. Mobil 1 5W-30 meets 17 industry spec/standards. Probably doesn't mean much though.

I could think a benefit would be for cold weather starts. Maybe a good winter oil?

 

[PHilly]

stick with 5w30.

 

[DonKingKong]

A 0w30 oil could be used year round if you wanted to, but since it usually costs more most people don't bother. I've used amsoil 0w30 for around 35000 miles and haven't had any problems (140000 miles on the engine), but just switched to the german castrol 0w30 (red label) because it's cheaper and easier to find. If you don't have cold winters a 5w30 is good enough, I live in Canada so it can get pretty cold some mornings during the winter. I've started my car every morning without using the block heater (nowhere to plug in) for a full winter when I was living in the Northwest Territories and it started every time, with temperatures as low as -51F without the wind chill, lower then -60F with. Glad I moved from there, now it only gets down to -35F where I live now . Also a big misconception with 0w30 oil is that it's too thin of an oil, but at full operating temperatures it's a 30 weight oil anyway (hense the 30 at the end of 0w30), but performs like a 0 weight when cold. That's where the added cost of the oil comes in, because you can't get a 0w30 that isn't fully synthetic.

 

[elraido]

A 0w30 oil could be used year round if you wanted to, but since it usually costs more most people don't bother. I've used amsoil 0w30 for around 35000 miles and haven't had any problems (140000 miles on the engine), but just switched to the german castrol 0w30 (red label) because it's cheaper and easier to find. If you don't have cold winters a 5w30 is good enough, I live in Canada so it can get pretty cold some mornings during the winter. I've started my car every morning without using the block heater (nowhere to plug in) for a full winter when I was living in the Northwest Territories and it started every time, with temperatures as low as -51F without the wind chill, lower then -60F with. Glad I moved from there, now it only gets down to -35F where I live now . Also a big misconception with 0w30 oil is that it's too thin of an oil, but at full operating temperatures it's a 30 weight oil anyway (hense the 30 at the end of 0w30), but performs like a 0 weight when cold. That's where the added cost of the oil comes in, because you can't get a 0w30 that isn't fully synthetic.

When it does get down to that -50F here, I found it vital to have a full synthetic 5w-30 and a good battery for the car to start without a block heater. Dino oil gets waaaay to thick. As for using a 0W-30 weight oil, I don't see how it could hurt too much.

 

[zbomb33]

I've used 0-W30 in VW GTI since day one, it's got 100,000 miles on the motor now and have had ZERO problems. I think it may be more beneficial in the long run if full syn is used from the get go, but it can't hurt!

 

[allstyle12]

Depending on the condition of your engine, it might be more harm than good using this low of a viscosity. The more oil that gets past the rings the more you lower your octane. Not only that, it's not cheap oil.

 

[SoopaCooga]

Since I have a turbo, I wanted something thicker than a 30 weight. For winter, I opted for Mobil1 0w40. As a bonus, it has additional zircon/phosphates.

 

[F111D F]

Very statisfied.

Very statisfied.

Price here same as 5w-30. Immediate noticeable, the engine feels slightly strong low end, driving for economy. First put in before the last 4th July grandson visit 1000 mile trip around/thru Chicago. Best mileage I've ever gotten or course I just replaced tires with New Kumho's grand touring all-seasons. LX platinum's tire rack these tires are quiet and have performed much better that all the supposed rain-tires I've owned. These tires definitely roll easier and enhances this chassis. Bottom line I'm very satisfied. 29.8 overall it be even better but for those have done the I-80 - 294 to I-88 toll booth nightmare it's all to easy getting caught up with traffic and realizing triple digits. Either than that tried keeping no more than 70. So many variables to getting most mpg. I had been using 0W-40 for that last 3+ years. The around town short trip has seen the best improvement. 24-26 depending temps depends on how long the wife has to idle in line picking up grandkids. Thanks to all the crazies out there one car load at time in the winter it does make down to 20-22.
Drain between 10-12 months with filter change and1/2qt. somewhere in the middle.
Also keep a close eye on misfires via Alex Peper software. Also use Mobil 1 ATF mainly in hope of increasing longevity of the CD4E 100K ATX. 88K so far no problems.
Bought new built 07/97.

 

[Big Jim]

You should be able to use it with no problems.

Both oils would be the same thickness once the engine is warmed up. They are both 30. The lower number is the cold number, and of course, 0 is lower than 5.

The term for widening the difference between the cold and warm ratings is viscosity index (VI). Obtaining the wider spread requires VI additives. Some believe that too much VI improver hurts the efficiency of the final product, particularly the concern of loosing VI from sheer as the oil wears. This is more of a problem with non-synthetic oil.

0W30 will give you better lubrication in cold weather during warm up, and if I lived in a cold climate that is what I would use.

 

[Kevinm]

Just an FYI
Keep in mind that the 0W or 5W of dino oil is the base and viscosity modifiers are used to get to 30. So the wider the spread the more viscosity modifiers are used. More additives could mean quicker break down. So whatever you use change your oil as recommended. Synthetic is a different animal.

 

[FIND]

Just an FYI
Keep in mind that the 0W or 5W of dino oil is the base and viscosity modifiers are used to get to 30. So the wider the spread the more viscosity modifiers are used. More additives could mean quicker break down. So whatever you use change your oil as recommended. Synthetic is a different animal.

Thats not quite right. The oil starts out as a base oil. Viscosity modifiers are what create the weight of the oil in the first place... Ie. bringing it to a 30 weight. Then other types of viscosity modifiers are added to create oil that performs like a 0 weight or 5 weight at colder temperatures. The oil does not magically morph into 0 weight or 5 weight when it is cold, it just does not thicken like a straight 30 weight, the amount it thickens is slower.
Also synthetic oils are the same as dino oil. The difference between synthetic oils and dino oils is that natural oil is made up of carbon chains ranging from 40-80 molecules long. Synthetic oil is also made up of the same carbon chains, however these chains are all uniform length. So in a full synthetic oil you would have all the chains say 65 molecules long. Equal length chains make the oil more stable molecularly which means there will be less trading of molecules between chains. The even length also makes synthetic transfer heat more evenly as a longer carbon chain retains heat longer and a shorter chain retains it less. The equal length causes all of the chemicals added to the oil to stay in suspension better because the chemicals can bond evenly and equally to the carbon chains. These properties are what lead to synthetic oils lasting longer and being "better" for your engine. The heat dissapation properties are one of the biggest benifits for your engine. And since the synthetic breaks down at a slower rate and holds additives in suspension better you get more predictable performance in your oil.
Just out of curiosity... Are the oil discussions ever gonna die on this site???

 

[Big Jim]

Thats not quite right. The oil starts out as a base oil. Viscosity modifiers are what create the weight of the oil in the first place... Ie. bringing it to a 30 weight. Then other types of viscosity modifiers are added to create oil that performs like a 0 weight or 5 weight at colder temperatures. The oil does not magically morph into 0 weight or 5 weight when it is cold, it just does not thicken like a straight 30 weight, the amount it thickens is slower.
Also synthetic oils are the same as dino oil. The difference between synthetic oils and dino oils is that natural oil is made up of carbon chains ranging from 40-80 molecules long. Synthetic oil is also made up of the same carbon chains, however these chains are all uniform length. So in a full synthetic oil you would have all the chains say 65 molecules long. Equal length chains make the oil more stable molecularly which means there will be less trading of molecules between chains. The even length also makes synthetic transfer heat more evenly as a longer carbon chain retains heat longer and a shorter chain retains it less. The equal length causes all of the chemicals added to the oil to stay in suspension better because the chemicals can bond evenly and equally to the carbon chains. These properties are what lead to synthetic oils lasting longer and being "better" for your engine. The heat dissapation properties are one of the biggest benifits for your engine. And since the synthetic breaks down at a slower rate and holds additives in suspension better you get more predictable performance in your oil.
Just out of curiosity... Are the oil discussions ever gonna die on this site???

This is horribly distorted.

Base oils do determine the lower temp viscosity number ( the 0 in 0W30). Not all base stocks start with the same (VI) viscosity index. For the most part synthetic oils have a higher VI to start with. VII (viscosity index improvers) are added to get it to the higher temp viscosity number (the 30 in 0W30). VII additives are not needed to hit the target for synthetic 5W30 (an oversimplification but mostly true). VII additives are needed to hit the target for dino 5W30. Advantage synthetic. It is difficult to get a dino 0W30 and impossible to get a dino 0W40.

Your picture of synthetic all all having the same molecular size is only correct if you are talking about something with 100% Group IV base stock. Most synthetic oil sold today is Group III. Group III is what the dispute between Mobil and Castrol was about a few years ago. Castrol started using much cheaper Group III as the main ingredient in Syntec a few years back and Mobil challenged that it wasn't really synthetic as a truth in advertising issue. Mobil lost the challenge based on there was some aspect of synthesis involved in the creation of Group III. Group III, especially some the better Group III, does have characteristics that aproach Group IV, but uniform molecular size is not one of them. The mocular size of Group III does have less "spread" than conventional dino oil though.

Some synthetic oils are blended mostly from Group V base stocks. Group V is mostly esters. Group V is really one of those "any other" categories. Among the Group V basestocks are ones that do a better job of conditioning seals and gaskets. Some Group V oils are often used as part of the additive package to improve seal conditioning.

Today's dino oils are mostly made up of Group II and the more highly refined Group II+ basestocks. Very little is made using Group I basestocks anymore. As an oversimplification, partial synthetics add a little of Group III into the blend, often around 20%.

Today, most so called synthetic oils are mostly Group III. That includes most Castrol synthetic oils, Valvoline, Conoco/Phillips (Motorcraft, Kendal, Union, Conoco, and Phillips), Pennzoil, etc. None of these have "uniform" molecular size.

Of the popular brands, Mobil 1 is the main holdout of mostly Group IV in the creation of its synthetic oil. Some Group V is included to get the end results they are after. Probably a little Group III is in the mix as well, but it has not moved to mostly Group III as has been misrepresented in some car enthusiasts sites. Amsoil is another mostly Group IV product. So called "German Castrol" is Group IV. Group III is not permitted to be called synthetic in Europe.

Red Line is one of the best known examples of mostly Group V. Torco may be in that catagory too but I'm not sure.

No, I don't think that the oil discussions are going to stop on this site any time soon.

 

[F111D F]

Oil discussions

Oil discussions

I glad there are those of you willing to share for at least two reasons, one: is the younger new to the car buff scene need to understand there is so much more to this issue than marketing barrage thrown out there!
Two: is this ORF with an over active "forgetter" appreciates the memory file refresh.

Back in the 70's when Mobil 1 first came out there was this issue of water being encapsulated in these molecule chains, which was especially helpful reducing the crud build up short trips. At least this was something I noticed especially in the winter. With dino the breather area and Pcv systems use to be water ladened, not so after switching to Mobil 1 in it's shiny can.
I held the moisture and when oil temperature gets hot it's released as a gas? Having seen anything touted about it since or it's worded differently?

 

[Dyoel182]

No, I don't think that the oil discussions are going to stop on this site any time soon.

Nor should they stop on here or any site. There will always be misinformation and misconception floating around from something someone heard, read or saw on tv and this is the place to discuss it.

 

[FIND]

no I didnt mean it to sound like that, I mean the only thing that annoys me about the oil discussions is you have so many people discussing whether they should spend 8 bucks a quart on oil to put in their not far from stock daily driver, instead of buying regular oil because they think that it is going to make their car better in some way.

Honestly the oil discussion isn't that important. It can be summed up in a simple thought. Your owners manual says what type of oil you should be using, ie this viscosity in this temperature, and at least this API grade.

If you follow what your owners manual says,change your oil regularly, and drive like an adult your engine will last at least 200,000 miles. Go to a high milage blend when your milage is higher and if you are starting to burn oil. Change your oil regularly, synthetic and semi synthetic increases your service intervals. Change it every 3000 miles if you do most of your driving in town, you can go as much as 7500 miles if all of your driving is on the highway.

Other than that basic logic applies. If Brand X costs 50% of what all of its competitors do selling what appears to be the same thing, then Brand X is probably half the quality of the competitors.

oh yeah and jim, sorry if I attempted to oversimplify and it came out to sound strange to you. my point was that in the end they are basically the same thing, and they are all full of additives. Synthetics give more predictable performance than dino, but it's not like Dino oils are something horrible that is going to ruin your engine. Most oil sold by reputable manufacturers meet or exceed the engineering requirments of vehicles produced today. Above stated basic logic is all the average consumer needs.

 

[Dyoel182]

If you follow what your owners manual says,change your oil regularly, and drive like an adult your engine will last at least 200,000 miles. Go to a high milage blend when your milage is higher and if you are starting to burn oil. Change your oil regularly, synthetic and semi synthetic increases your service intervals. Change it every 3000 miles if you do most of your driving in town, you can go as much as 7500 miles if all of your driving is on the highway.

Good advice on following the manual but not everyone does it. In fact a lot of people lose their manuals and then just go to the local oil place because the sticker in their car had a date or mileage number on it.

 

[FIND]

ill scan the picture from mine or my wife's owners manual that shows the viscosity you should use later tonight probably. Then I will get it posted in here if that helps.

 

[Dyoel182]

Oh I wasnt saying I needed the manual. You can google Contour Manual and get the real thing from Ford if you really cared.

 

[FIND]

lol that's okay anyways, both the manuals I have don't specify different oil under different temperature conditions. They just say use 5w30 certified by API for use in gasoline engines.
YAY really specific there, so apparently Ford engineers build these engines aimed towards the average consumer who is just gonna grab whatever off the shelf as long as it looks like it has the same numbers the cap says to put in it. Go figure...
Anyways, I would still stand by what I said earlier, just put 5w30 in your car and change your oil regularly and your lubricated parts will last a long time, notwithstanding other failures. Adding 0w30 is probably silly for most contour drivers since their engines by this time have a considerable number of miles on them and they would be more worn than a new engine. This means it would lead to more oil consumption at higher temperatures.