I'm considering it on my own autox car. It sees a bit of street duty, but the dash is looking nasty thats why I've been contemplating it.
The removal of the splash guard is somthing else I was considering since on tight turns I have rubbing issues with them. Just wondering if you devised a plan to prevent damage.
if you get coilovers with a very aggressive spring rate, you can drop those ***ches to within a quarter inch of the liners and they will never contact... also the swaybars become useless (mine have all been removed entirely)... Josh there are still dents in my fenders from you demonstrating to your GF how stiff my suspension was. lol.
josh the rolled fenders are fantastic. You may want to chat with jagged about aggressive tire fitment as he's had some pretty gnarly rubber on his car but never had the benifit of rolled fenders. Concerning the hella flush fitment, that is going to be so baller but from a practical aspect, I found myself progressively raising the suspension higher and higher till I was near stock height as it really negatively impacted the handling of the car.
it looks like you have a good handling on the wiring. I know we've had this conversation before, but be really careful with your grounds. theres a few tricky areas.
when maximumly stripped interior wise, it should run to the steering column and one run back to the pump and tail lights.
your lucky to have the manual window/mirror option... I don't but this still might be helpful. if you have additional wires to run, I suggest using these mounts... it seems like they are there for that reason.
now if you really want to get funky. the engine bay harness can be divided into 2 seperate harnesses quite easily: core function and accessories (lights horns wipers, etc). the accessories can be run pretty easily through the fenders to their intended destinations. And the core harness can be taken out of the engine bay entirely. Heres what it looks like stripped of the accessories (which has 4 tap points) and the non-essentials (this will still run all stock interior stuff at this point so 30% of this can still be stripped out). Now rather than run it along the fender line, turn it sideways and run it inside the cabin along the firewall. the plug for the engine/ecu harness runs nicely into the engine bay through the hole you have for the HVAC lines. Now if you want to get real fancy, tap the ecu wires in before the plug and you've effectively removed 90% of the wires from the engine bay. [this will also give you a much more optimal route for a battery relocation and remove any criss crossing of battery wires through the engine bay and a proper battery kill switch]
