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stalls when hot, then won't start

M

mtxcontourSVT

New CEG'er
Joined
Jun 4, 2003
Messages
26
Location
Raleigh, NC
I just put in a 3L and it has been running normal for 150 miles.

Twice today it stalled while driving after 30 mins (once around 4k, then around 2k). I had to wait for it to cool down before it would start again (it would crank but not start). The temp gauge was at the R in normal.

From searching it seems like it could be a bad ECT flooding the engine when I try to restart while hot. My question is would a bad ECT cause the engine to stall while driving or should I look at the crankshaft/camshaft sensors first?
 
mtxcontourSVT said:
I just put in a 3L and it has been running normal for 150 miles.

Twice today it stalled while driving after 30 mins (once around 4k, then around 2k). I had to wait for it to cool down before it would start again (it would crank but not start). The temp gauge was at the R in normal.

From searching it seems like it could be a bad ECT flooding the engine when I try to restart while hot. My question is would a bad ECT cause the engine to stall while driving or should I look at the crankshaft/camshaft sensors first?
Click to expand...
Look at all three. Test them, do the "wiggle" test and then you will know better.

Info in Autozonelink. Enginecoolanttemperature sensor
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/ca/ba/0900823d801bcaba.jsp

crankshaftposition sensor
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/c4/47/0900823d801bc447.jsp

camshaftposition sensor
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/cb/7c/0900823d801bcb7c.jsp
 
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I had the same exact problem. my car stalled on the FL Turnpike about 20 times driving home from Tennessee. I put in an new FUEL PUMP. the car runs like a dream.
 
DeepDishSVT said:
I had the same exact problem. my car stalled on the FL Turnpike about 20 times driving home from Tennessee. I put in an new FUEL PUMP. the car runs like a dream.
Click to expand...

Would it start right up after it stalled though or did you have to let it cool? I'm going to start with the ECT and go from there.
 
Looks like the ECT fixed it, the old ECT had a black build up on it. Drove around for over an hour and started multiple times after it was hot.
 
mtxcontourSVT said:
Looks like the ECT fixed it, the old ECT had a black build up on it. Drove around for over an hour and started multiple times after it was hot.
Click to expand...

I spoke too soon, it just happened again but this time even after it cooled down it wouldn't start up. I got a friend to drive me home and I replaced the crankshaft and cam sensors, after about 10 cranks it started up... I'm not so sure that was the fix.

Any other ideas? fuel pump on its way out? - I've had over half a tank of gas but the car does have 170k on it.
 
mtxcontourSVT said:
... I got a friend to drive me home and I replaced the crankshaft and cam sensors, after about 10 cranks it started up... I'm not so sure that was the fix.
....
Click to expand...
Go a few days more and you will know. Check the wiring/connectors at those locations too.
 
I just tried to start it up since I drove home and it went on the first try. If changing the sensors wasn't the fix I was thinking of the following:

-wire rot - I noticed a spot by the cam sensor where the coating had started to crack but it wasn't enough to touch and short anything out...wondering if there is a problem deeper in the harness. While the engine was running I moved the harness around and it ran fine.
-fuel pump - I thought the fuel pump was either working or not and nothing in between, while I was cranking I could smell gas so I dont' think this is the issue
-main cat clogged - if the main cat was clogged the car would at least start right...I guess I'm thinking of it restricting RPMs
-leaky injector - I just installed 19# injectors that had been sitting for a while, not sure if this would cause an intermittent issue

Could I monitor the sensors for failure in alex peppers obd2 program?
 
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Just an update, I took a closer look at the wiring harness for the cam and crank sensors and they're in worse shape than I thought. I'm going to cut off a few inches and splice in the connectors from my 3L harness. All of the other connectors look fine.. is it common to find these 2 in bad condition?

I'm guessing when the exposed/corroded wires got hot they interrupted the signal causing the stalling? Previously I did tug on these spots while the engine was running with no problem?
 
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