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anyone hear of POR-15 before?

H

hotdimmes

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Dec 26, 2003
Messages
4,075
Location
New Britain, CT
Was looking at options for header coating and a coworker told me about this stuff. He said his brother-inlaw tried it out on a piece of metal and took a hammer to it. Said the stuff didnt flinch.

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POR-15® is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture.
Use it to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray.
POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.

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Also comes in "POR-20" which is high heat resistant, obviously necessary for exhaust applications.

http://www.por15.com
 
I know POR-15 is recommended to coat frames on the various Lotus 7 clones that are on the market now. Supposedly good stuff. If there's a high-heat application, it's certainly worth a look.
 
Yea i've started rebuilding my suspension on my car, has 145k miles and I'm using POR-15 on everything and it works amazingly and looks awesome. Haven't had any problems with it clinging to rusty surfaces or coming off. I highly recommend this stuff.
 
I wonder if you could coat the headers with 8 oz.? $17.75 isn't bad. Wonder what shipping is? It's $50 to get the premium treatment from MSDS isn't it?
 
Not sure, but I sent an email to some company in my hometown and they quoted me like 180 to jet hot coat headers with a 3 week turnaround. Crap on that. I think I might try the POR-20 though to keep my header costs to a minimum. I guess if you are gonna buy a pint of that stuff at 30 bucks, 20 more for the coating from msds doesnt seem too bad.
 
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How Much do I Need? All estimates below are made using one coat on the area being treated; however, we recommend two coats in most applications.
POR-15 application on non porous surfaces (most metals):
Approximate coverage:
  • Pint = 50 sq. ft.
  • Quart = 96 sq. ft.
  • Gallon = 350 sq. ft. For porous surfaces like wood & concrete, coverage will be about 20% less.
    When painting on metal surfaces, we recommend at least 20oz. of Metal Ready for every quart of paint or coating you use
Marine Clean is mixed with water; ratios will vary depending on application.
(Hot water will increase effectiveness)
Engine Enamels: One pint will cover any standard automobile engine block
Hi-Temperature Paints (Factory Manifold Grey, Black Velvet, POR-20): For exhaust components 8oz. will coat an average set of manifolds and a small set of headers.
Super Starter Kit: (Great for testing & smaller projects): 12 sq. ft.
Floor pan and Trunk Kit: Enough products to do two floor pans or one entire trunk
Auto Fuel Tank Repair Kit: Seals up to a 25 Gal. tank
Motorcycle / Utility Fuel Tank Repair Kit: Seals up to a 6 Gal. tank
 
There ya go! Now the issue is the inside of the headers? Is moisture going to be an issue that far up the exhaust? Is the MSDS coating inside and out?
 
From what I recall, the msds coating is just on the outside.

wowie wee wah:

MSDS Nickel Plated Headers
4 Cylinder $65 - 6 Cylinder $85 - 8 Cylinder $185

Try MSDS new Z95 Ceramic Coating... good up to 1,650 degrees,
FAA approved!
4 Cylinder $115 - 6 Cylinder $125 - 8 Cylinder $185
 
You shouldnt need a whole lot of paint for the headers. I used probably less than 1/2 an 8oz can to paint my rear trailer arms, mounts, and rear control arms. The price of the product is decent for what it does, but shipping is expensive. I think I paid like 20 something bucks for the starter kit which weighs approximately 3 lbs to be shipped from atlanta, ga to myrtle beach, sc. That's like a 350 mile trip.
 
Oh yea and dont get this stuff on your hands, its incredibly difficult to get off and lacquer thinner will not remove it. Moisture makes it stronger, your hands are normally covered in all kinds of moisture and oil, therefore, it bonds to your hands. Took about 4 days to get off my hands, washing constantly.
 
Have I heard of it? Yeppers. I used it to coat my MSDS headers last December. This december I dropped a valve so I had everything out. I was really, really surprised how well this stuff held up! They recomend 2 light coats and heat them to 400* after you let them dry for a day. I used my oven but don't do that in your house unless you want it to smell like **** I put it on with a regular sponge brush. Where 2 of the preliminaries meet their was an excessive blob between them so that kinna peeled off. If I were to do it again I would have a friend spray it on. That would be a lot higher quality job.

They have a step process. You use Marine Clean and Metal Ready before you put the paint on.

When I got my Y pipe I misplaced the Por stuff. So I bought some spray on stuff from Advanced Auto. I think that its name is VCT. That stuff did NOT hold up.
 

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I researched it a lot and bought some. Seemed very good from what all I saw on the web. I didn't use it and sold it to a coworker though. As long as you clean the surface really well and follow directions, it should work great.
 
My freind at jeffs bronco grave yard. Swears by it. Since they do full restoration of broncos. They use this stuff on there frames. So far he says there has not been a complaint yet from the frame rusting in michigan.

Geez he never stops talking about it:crazy:
 
Good stuff

Good stuff

Proper prep is important. Have friend into restoration, he wire brushed a rusty battery tray and coated it. Coated it's not a paint, because paint breaths this does not. That been over twenty years ago still looks the good no rust.
Important to note from friend that worked in a local steel mill did test in his lab using steel made from 90% scrap steel. Even when placed into a sealed vacuumed drawn , steel will still rust. Much much slower but it will still try to revert to it's origin. Part of reason was the scrap came from cars driven on salt roads. The ions of salt in the new steel speeds up the electrical/electron flow involved in break down/conversation process.

Also another name out there "Miracle Paint" all these have different formula for different jobs. The restoration guys have been using seems like forever.

Notice it is not cheap but it's tough.
For restoration I've using the "Right Stuff" from Advanced it not only converts the an ferric oxides, that covers and bonds to the surface then ends being chromated phosphate -protective film.
Then I paint. Right now I'm trying two step primer and then zinc rich top coating by rust-oluem. This is underneath of course trying beat Ohio salt and the new brine solution which is many times more corrosive than just plain salt.

AHhhhh I hate rust!
 
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