Some Code Help, Please

[fdm813]

I have a 1998 SVT, 110000 miles. Bought it 2 years ago. Been running fine until the other day. Started shuttering on acceleration. Engine light has been on since I bought the car. I was told by previous owner that it was on because he had the resonator removed. The car ran great so I didn't doubt him. I took the car to Advance Store for a readout of the codes and got the results. The following is what I found out: P0401 EGR Flow Insufficient
P0402 EGR Flow Excessive
P0420 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1
P1131 Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering
P1151 Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering
I am no mechanic. Just wondering about how much is this going to cost me. Or can a dummie get through it with some tips from you guys.

Thanks.
Frank

 

[Tony2005]

" Engine light has been on since I bought the car."
Reset by removing Fuse 4 and 11 in Power Distribution Box (next to the battery) for 3 or 4 minutes and then reinstall.

Then check for missing or broken hose causing those codes. If you find the hoses broken or came out in DPFE or EGR valve, or big hole in Y pipe or exhaust manifolds, get those fixed. Then see what codes appear again and post the new codes.

With the exception of the Y-pipe or exhaust manifold holes, all those should be easily done by yourself (free is a good price).

I could advise you to change individual items for each of the codes posted by you today but I doubt they are all broken. I suspect one of those items above are missing or has a big hole.

Edit. Good info in Autozone link.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/ca/1e/0900823d801bca1e.jsp

 

[projectSHO89]

Your codes indicate at least three separate faults. Your drivability symptom adds a fourth.

Contradictory EGR fault codes is usually due to a bad DPFE sensor. I'd suspect the sensor is bad. However, you still may have EGR port blockage. Additional testing (ie, the "suck" test) is needed.

Your firewall-side pre-cat may be gone (dead). However.....

Both upstream O2 sensors are indicated as lazy/wornout. The front one is easy, the back one is a PITA. Upstream sensors must be operational in order get a valid catalytic efficiency test. Resolve this issue and see if the pre-cat code comes back before condemning the pre-cat. Precats are expensive and a PITA to replace. MIL eliminators are cheap and will keep the pre-cat codes from returning and will get the catalyst system past OBD-II emissions testing if you are subject to it.

You are likely experiencing the early stages of ignition-related misfires, too early or not severe enough to set a fault code. Usually, new plugs and wires will fix that. The suggestion is to stick with either Motorcraft or Autolite plugs and wires unless you feel lucky.

The previous owner blew smoke up your tailpipe. The removal of the resonator could not have caused a CEL under any circumstance. Chances are, the actual fault was due to the precat or the EGR system.

For a shop to do everything I've suggested, including all parts and labor, would likely cost upwards of $1200-1400. You might want to consider becoming your own mechanic if you're so inclined. Everything you're encountering has been discussed here many times and Tony always finds and points out relevent FAQs and previous posts to help in finding the needed information.

Steve

 

[LUCA]

Just a thought for you Frank...have you tried posting in the Capital forums and asking if another CEG'er would lend you a hand in fixing your car?

I'm sure someone would be willing to help you out. Plus, you'll learn quite a bit so next time you'll be up to tackle some things yourself.

 

[Tony2005]

Just a thought for you Frank...have you tried posting in the Capital forums and asking if another CEG'er would lend you a hand in fixing your car?

I'm sure someone would be willing to help you out. Plus, you'll learn quite a bit so next time you'll be up to tackle some things yourself.

We are too busy for anyone. :laugh: Actually, unless it is really, really critical, most of us are very busy.

I did offer a few times previously (when I could and some were accepted).

 

[fdm813]

Thanks everyone for your help. I'm glad it's tax refund time. I guess that's takes care of what to spend it on. There is a very good garage close to my house. Former Ford dealer mechanic with 20 years in. He has done work for me before, just for the labor cost. I'll run by his shop Monday and see what he says. Thanks again everyone.
Frank

 

[Ray]

Well.. you can lead a horse to water....

 

[todras]

Yikes! Someone is going to get hosed. I'd change the DPFE first which is about $40 and takes 10 minutes to change. Usually it's this with just the PO401. If that doesn't work move on to the O2's. Also the Upper Intake manifold and throttle body & passage should be cleaned. Also with a CE light on the PCM goes into limp mode and runs very rich. I bet you get crap gas mileage. Running rich is also hart on the cat. convertor diminishing it's life.

 

[fdm813]

Your codes indicate at least three separate faults. Your drivability symptom adds a fourth.

Contradictory EGR fault codes is usually due to a bad DPFE sensor. I'd suspect the sensor is bad. However, you still may have EGR port blockage. Additional testing (ie, the "suck" test) is needed.

Your firewall-side pre-cat may be gone (dead). However.....

Both upstream O2 sensors are indicated as lazy/wornout. The front one is easy, the back one is a PITA. Upstream sensors must be operational in order get a valid catalytic efficiency test. Resolve this issue and see if the pre-cat code comes back before condemning the pre-cat. Precats are expensive and a PITA to replace. MIL eliminators are cheap and will keep the pre-cat codes from returning and will get the catalyst system past OBD-II emissions testing if you are subject to it.

You are likely experiencing the early stages of ignition-related misfires, too early or not severe enough to set a fault code. Usually, new plugs and wires will fix that. The suggestion is to stick with either Motorcraft or Autolite plugs and wires unless you feel lucky.

The previous owner blew smoke up your tailpipe. The removal of the resonator could not have caused a CEL under any circumstance. Chances are, the actual fault was due to the precat or the EGR system.

For a shop to do everything I've suggested, including all parts and labor, would likely cost upwards of $1200-1400. You might want to consider becoming your own mechanic if you're so inclined. Everything you're encountering has been discussed here many times and Tony always finds and points out relevent FAQs and previous posts to help in finding the needed information.

Steve

I have purchased a service manual and a DPFE sensor. I will try and do this my self. It's in the 20's at night here in SW Va. but I do have a heated 50,000 sq ft. warehouse I can use on weekends. I also noticed a split in the hose going to egr valve I will replace it. As far as the y pipe and cat. I'll to go to a local shop. I'm just glad this is not my daily driver. I use my 96' as the daily driver (251000 miles) and still going strong.
Thanks Again,
Frank

 

[Tony2005]

....I also noticed a split in the hose going to egr valve I will replace it. ...

Smoking gun!

" Engine light has been on since I bought the car."
Reset by removing Fuse 4 and 11 in Power Distribution Box (next to the battery) for 3 or 4 minutes and then reinstall.

Then check for missing or broken hose causing those codes. If you find the hoses broken or came out in DPFE or EGR valve, ............., get those fixed. Then see what codes appear again and post the new codes.
........................

I could advise you to change individual items for each of the codes posted by you today but I doubt they are all broken. I suspect one of those items above are missing or has a big hole.

Edit. Good info in Autozone link.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/ca/1e/0900823d801bca1e.jsp