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Transmission, engine- WHO KNOWS?

kouksie

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 27, 2006
Messages
380
Location
Calgary, Ab, Canada
Hello all,
An update from the land I call Contour He**:

So I originally posted a while ago, speaking of my car not downshifting when I would accelerate, and acted erraticly after extended periods of time on the highway.
The next episode: The dealership took it out on the highway- changed the sparkplugs and did other maintenance things to it (not sure exactly what, my father told me on the phone).
The dealership is telling him that it's "slipping" and they THINK it may be the timing belt. I will re-iterate the problem to you. I seriously need some help. I've already dished out $1000+ dollars and I know the car is not worth AT BEST $3,000.

1998 Automatic SE. 132,000 kilometers. Was on the highway for about an hour when I would hit the gas, the RPM'S would shift up properly, but the car would not accelerate, transmission would not down-shift.. Instead, it sounded as though it hit the govenor speed and NOT go any faster. I would let off the gas, the RPMS would go back down, and the car would violently LURCH back in synch. At first it happened at 100-110 km/h, but after first occurance, would happen at lower speeds and would get worse as time progressed.

If the car was turned off for about an hour, and then taken back out on the highway, it would 'behave' for about an hour, then start acting up again. I was in BOTH cruise-control and NON cruise-control when this occurred.

Dealership is getting NO CODES.
Things I have replaced:
Fuel filter
Fuel Pump which I replaced myself (thank you Haynes manual)
Cleaned fuel injectors
cleaned spark plugs
transmission flush done religiously every year.

The dealership is trying to tell my dad that it might be the timing belt. Another dealership thought it may be frayed overdrive wires. Originally thought it might be a sensor or a throttle problem. Truth of the matter is, I don't KNOW what to think anymore. Let's be honest here- I'm a 26 year old woman and I don't live under the hood of a car. I CANNOT get over the fact that I have been looped around by a DEALERSHIP whose job it is to diagnose. I refuse to let it go into another dealership, but I need some help.

What exactly are the symptoms of a messed up timing belt? Is my car displaying the symptoms of a timing belt on the fritz? Throttle problems?
I'm *THIS* close to screaming/pulling my hair out.
I'm a university student with a limited budget, and I've already pumped in 1/3 of it's worth into it in new parts.

ANY help would be REALLY appreciated.
Thank you,
Kouksie
 
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Damn, that has to suck. Please dont tell me it cost over a thousand dollars for what you listed to change! Im no expert on this, but sounds like something is wrong with the tranny.

Good way to look at the situation is, when you finally get the problem solved, you should have a decent running vehicle since you have seemed to have delt with some other things that might give you some troubles in the future..........:shrug:
 
Ok. first off I will commend you for being smart enough to join a Forum dedicated to these cars. It WILL save you lots of money over time if needed. Secondly, you can look through the "Old Forums" on the first page when you type in contour.org. Here is a list of FAQ's written by: 'unysis12' whom is more than knowledgeable when it comes to the cd4e automatic transmissions:
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=655008&page=0&view=

After you read the FAQ's (it will help you understand a lot of the terminology) read this post: There are also a few links within this post that suggest other problems/fixes/diagnosis/costs/et cetera.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1037492&page=&view
See if any of these problems sound like what you are or have experienced and get back to us with what you believe the problem to be and why. We can come to a solution together. [holds hands behind back and nervously drags foot over the ground...]

I already have a good idea of what this might be, but if you come to the same conclusion based on what you read, my idea should be solidified.
 
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If there are no codes, your Fuse No. 11 (3 AMP) in the Power Distribution Box (next to the battery) is either blown, missing or loose. Check that first. Your symptoms MUST have some codes or another. If it is an engine problem, you should have have some codes stored. If it is a tranny problem, the "OD OFF" light should flash. Open up the hood and check for frayed wires by the Vehicle Speed Sensor (this should cause a flashing OD OFF light), Crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. Also check for issues by the Manual lever position sensor.

Edit. I hope you have a 4 cylinder I-4 Zetec engine. V6's do not have timing belts.
 
If there are no codes, your Fuse No. 11 (3 AMP) in the Power Distribution Box (next to the battery) is either blown, missing or loose. Check that first. Your symptoms MUST have some codes or another. If it is an engine problem, you should have have some codes stored. If it is a tranny problem, the "OD OFF" light should flash. Open up the hood and check for frayed wires by the Vehicle Speed Sensor (this should cause a flashing OD OFF light), Crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. Also check for issues by the Manual lever position sensor.

Edit. I hope you have a 4 cylinder I-4 Zetec engine. V6's do not have timing belts.

Lol, yes I have a 4-banger. no O/D light is flashing, which actually may be the root of my problems, since it hasn't worked, and the dealership will not tell me if it's a blown fuse or an actual overdrive problem. Thanks for your input.
 
Ok. first off I will commend you for being smart enough to join a Forum dedicated to these cars.

Thanks very much for the links. I took a quick poke at it this morning. I know all the terminology, but I will have to do some more thorough reading. Some things did pop out at me when I took a quick glance. Thank you!
 
I'm not a mechanic but your problem is probably not related to the timing belt. The timing belt controls the camshafts of the engine which controls the combustion.

Your "slipping" problem (RPM's goes up but does not accelerate) is related to the torque convertor which is a kind of a clutch (used in manual transmissions to compensate the difference of speed between the engine and the wheels).

This kind of problem happens when your torque convertor is defective or your transmission oil gets too hot.

If your oil gets too hot it could be a valve that recirculates the oil in the transmission that is stuck or defective. If it's not an oil related problem your torque convertor is probably fried.

If your mechanic tried the car on the highway and noticed the same problem as you and suggested you to change the timing belt you're probably getting screwed. To get an exact diagnostic I would suggest you to get the car to a shop specialized in automatic transmissions.

Hope this helps you
 
Also known as MLPS or manual lever position sensor. It mounts on the trans where the shift cable attaches. In years past a similar switch prevented you from starting the car in drive and was called the neutral safety switch.

These things act up when they get old. Grease migrates into the switch contacts and causes eratic readings intermitantly. This certainly could be your problem.
 
Also known as MLPS or manual lever position sensor. It mounts on the trans where the shift cable attaches. In years past a similar switch prevented you from starting the car in drive and was called the neutral safety switch.

These things act up when they get old. Grease migrates into the switch contacts and causes eratic readings intermitantly. This certainly could be your problem.

Also read your previous thread.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=5607&highlight=mlps
 
Also known as MLPS or manual lever position sensor. It mounts on the trans where the shift cable attaches. In years past a similar switch prevented you from starting the car in drive and was called the neutral safety switch.

These things act up when they get old. Grease migrates into the switch contacts and causes eratic readings intermitantly. This certainly could be your problem.

I read this the last time I posted with the problem and mentioned it to the dealership. I got them to order me one, and they told me it wouldn't be in for a few days. It was 85 dollars, and will be there for me at the dealership when I get home. I will pick it up and install it as I originally intended to.
It's much more difficult to repair when it's been left behind, but I think my spring break will be spent in my garage with my head under the hood. I miss that.

Again, thank you for the advice that I did follow up on, just never got the part in time :)
 
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