No, not really. It sounds more like the BOV is not closed completely, like a weak fluttering blow off? But it only happens in the higher RPM like 5500RPM and above, below that it holds closed just fine. I'll let ADC have fun with that
-
Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.
You can register to join the community.
Codes for Turbo SVT
- Thread starter Chas
- Start date
No, not really. It sounds more like the BOV is not closed completely, like a weak fluttering blow off? But it only happens in the higher RPM like 5500RPM and above, below that it holds closed just fine. I'll let ADC have fun with that
Hey Brapple, can you move this to the FI section? Might get more useful feedback there.
beyondloadedSE
Hard-core CEG'er
Are we even sure ADC is willing to help Contour owners these days?
Yes. I called a couple weeks ago, and they said they would tune the car, they just need a couple days notice to get you on the schedule.
Blackcoog
Hard-core CEG'er
As mentioned earlier you shouldn't ever run a car under boost if it isn't tuned for it. You are going to run lean and blow the motor up. If you drive it don't get into the boost. Get a wideband sensor for the car so you can monitor the air/fuel. Innovate has some nice wideband kits which will let you monitor the air/fuel. I have the XD kit they sell and I love it.
Well I konw that now! :crazy: It has a narrow band (lunar series), but I haven't found a wideband lunar one. I would like to keep all the guages matching (slighty OCD), but I may make a compromise on this one.
get an innovative motorsports LC-1 wide band controller. this is what I am using and it allows for 2 analog outputs. The outputs are scaleable so you can display a wideband signal on a narrow band guage. you can also use the output as a true wideband to feed into an xcal2 for datalogging.
TRicker
Hard-core CEG'er
if it runs okay out of the gas that works, or you can loosen up a charge pipe, or take out your wastegate spring so it will just dump exhaust and build no boost till you get there lol. dyno tuning is expensive, just got home from a 3 hour session. good luck~!
I guess I could....but what the hell, a full trailer is only $60ish, and I only have to go 120 miles each way, so I'll just pull it.
ADC quoted $795 including the Xcal3, but i'm sure it could be more depending on what's wrong (if anything).
I'll keep you guys posted on the tune. I'm planning on this saturday, but I may have to work. we'll see....
BrApple, thanks for the controller suggestion. I think that will work (and match better). Do you have a good source to buy this through?
got mine here in a group buy a few years ago. think its a pretty good price.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=169
starjammir
Hard-core CEG'er
Or you can spend the same amount and get the AEM one which comes with a gauge too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
It also will hook up to the xcal and datalog. I have it and love it.
It also will hook up to the xcal and datalog. I have it and love it.
good to know but like me he wants all the guages to match. and the LC-1 is alot cheaper then the autometer wideband guage setup.
starjammir
Hard-core CEG'er
It matches fine in my car. I have the Phantom series. I can snag a pic for you guys if you want.
TUFTOUR
Hard-core CEG'er
^that's the same setup I have and I think it matches well, too...
Tex
Hard-core CEG'er
Probably not when if you buy the one I have laying around that I used for 4,000 miles. :shrug:
eh :shrug: maybe I'll switch then so I can use the LC-1 in the SVT then.
starjammir
Hard-core CEG'er
You need a 9-pin connector for the top of the xcal. Cut off one end and use two of the wires (slips my mind) and connect them to the two spare wires you had from the AEM. Input the formula for the AEM into the datalogging software and it works good. I always compare the numbers from the wideband to the xcal readings just to make sure its reading good and the formula is correct.
ok that is exactly like the LC-1. I followed innovatives how-to and got the 9 pin connector so i wouldn't have to cut the end off the cable. I mounted the connector on the passanger kick panel, up front on the center console.
http://innovatemotorsports.com/resources/Xcal2_tutorial.php
http://innovatemotorsports.com/resources/autometer-integration.php
starjammir
Hard-core CEG'er
Yep its something like that. I think you need to cut the ends off of the connector for the AEM one. I just like seeing the A/F incase it starts to go lean. I would have thought you turbo guys would have been the same.