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RPM's rise between shifts? 98.5 SVT

M

macantley

New CEG'er
Joined
Nov 16, 2008
Messages
26
Location
charleston WV
on my contour, if its idling, it idles around 600 RPM, sometimes it will drop down to 400 PM, but its normally around 600-700 RPM

if i take it out and drive it ive noticed that the rpm's will stay the same, or sometimes rise alittle between shifts, and if i push the clutch in and coast, sometimes it goes up around 2500 RPM and stays there for a second or two then comes back down to normal.

im not sure if my maf sensor code would have anything to do with that or not but its quite annoying, pulling up to a stop sign and the engine is reving for a second or two making people think im going to race or something.

anyway, i didnt know if this was a common contour issue or not.

matthew
 
you need a new IAC valve. Sometimes pulling it off and cleaning it well with carb cleaner fixes the issue, but I have been told that this is only a temporary fix. Is your check engine light on?
 
ok, i looked at both diagnoses, first off, i normally have copper 1/2" caps here at my home but i couldnt find any, so i used a 3/8ths inch drive socket that had a 8MM end on it, the hole in the center of the stocket was 3/16th's inch, maybe 1/4" tops, either way when installed, my car now only idles at MAX 1500 RPM, the car runs/shifts MUCH better.

i also used maf sensor cleaner on the maf sensor, now i still have the code stored in the ECM, but after i clear the code ill drive it around for a couple weeks and see if it comes back, so far so good, the car feels alot more drivable, and the idle is smooth now and doesnt hunt.

matthew
 
It really does sound like a bad tps sensor guys.

Tps sensor when bad. Will show 1 very noticeable indication. Your car will rev on it's own in between shifts.

Run up to a local auto part store. Buy a tps...try it out on your car. If nothing seems to have changed. Return the part for a full refund. So atleast you know this vital part that lets your car know what rpms it is running at hasn't gone bad.
 
Sorry to disturb, but I don't trust my English reading/interpretation skills in car technical terms :) About the TH fix, is my understanding correct that you have to block the air flow in the hose of the bypass-air-valve by placing some solid copper plate in between? The pictures in the aforementioned FAQ didn't help much, they only shows the location where the modification has to be done.
 
BalusC said:
Sorry to disturb, but I don't trust my English reading/interpretation skills in car technical terms :) About the TH fix, is my understanding correct that you have to block the air flow in the hose of the bypass-air-valve by placing some solid copper plate in between? The pictures in the aforementioned FAQ didn't help much, they only shows the location where the modification has to be done.
Click to expand...


the way i understand it is to block the large hole, they recommended putting a 1/2" copper pipe cap inside the rubber hose, in the cap, drill a 3/16ths hole so that there is still airflow in the line, with this 3/16ths hole, only a small amount of air can be sucked through the hose and limiting how many RPMS the engine can idle through that valve.

now all this being said, from what i read on that page, if your car is NOT a SVT it doesnt mention drilling a hole, it just says to cap off the line.

i guess the SVT's just need alittle more air so the hole is drilled.

my shifts feel/sound alot better since i put something in the line with only a 3/16ths inch hole, but my car is a SVT and it seems yours is a SE, so you may be able to plug off that line and see how the car performs.


matthew
 
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