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Better than Steeda and B&M...

R

Reebs

meester super sleuth
Joined
Feb 14, 2006
Messages
2,727
Location
Southeast Michigan
I finally got ahold of both a steeda and a B&M short shifter! I am going to combine the two for an amazing short shifter. Although I am having trouble locating Elky's thread about using the bottom half of the Steeda (true short shifter) and the top half of the B&M for extremely close, tight shifts! My Steeda is currently in my SVT, but I'm sure that when I pull the steeda and put the B&M next to the steeda, I should be able to figure out where to cut/weld each.

If someone could lead me to that thread, I would be very appreciative! I can't even remember if it is on the old forums or the new!?!? Maybe Elky himself will chime in...


Thanks,


Jeff
 
Couldn't you have just cut the rod and threaded it? Then bent it to match a b&m? Seems alot less complicated than welding together two different shifters.
 
Cut both where the shifter ball is, Then just weld the B&M shaft on the Steeda Ball+lower Point. Simple..

I dont really see the point however, the steeda works fine enough, If you really wanted to feel the B&M and Steeda you could just cut the Steeda down..

Your wasting money.
 
I don't know the post but what I recall elky doing was to cut the steeda to the height of the B&M and then made the o-ring grooves in the same location as the B&M and then cap it off with the B&M reverse lockout, then you have to thread the steeda so you can put the stock shifter back on ....


so the easiest thing to do with out having to buy both is to get the measurment of the B&M from the pivot to the end and cut the Steeda to match, then get an aftermarket shift knob that would fit and eliminate the reverse lockout ...
 
Tourige said:
Your wasting money.
Click to expand...


Too bad I traded my stock shifter out of my SVT parts car for a B&M! The guy wanted to return his car to stock, so we traded! :) Now I don't think that is wasting money, do you!?!? ;) Also, if I can just cut down the steeda, and still use the reverse lockout, then that is what I will do. I was under the impression that you can only use the reverse lockout when you actually use the B&M shaft. Then I guess I can sell my B&M. Hmmm....

Wouldn't it be easier to just cut right above the main ball on both, then weld back on like someone already stated in this thread!?!? I have both, so I don't mind using both. I don't know why Elky went through the hassle of rethreading, moving the o rings, etc... I guess it isn't that big of a deal anyways. If I got someone to weld it on right above the main ball, would that cause any problems!?!? Would it have to be a PERFECT weld, to not hit the shifter housing that the ball sits in? Anyone understand what I am saying!??!


Thanks,


Reebs



EDIT: And by the way, I found the thread I was looking for... Elky's post... For anyone interested in seeing what I am talking about
 
Last edited:
well looking at the pics you can see both are one peice at the pivot point ... why would you want to go and cut that ...
 
How the hell do you think cutting and welding to be more work than cutting and rethreading? You do realize that you can buy a took to rethread that, right? It takes the guess work out of welding the B&M shaft on perfectly straight, and it will never be as strong as a solid piece. And yes, you'll have to use the B&M reverse lockout piece unless you like the ghetto look of not having it on there.

Mark
 
Thanks guys for your advice. I am going to go with cutting the steeda down to the length of the B&M and using the B&M reverse lockout. I love the Steeda that I have now, but it just isn't satisfying me anymore. Time to go a little shorter! ;)


So I guess I'll be selling my B&M without the reverse lockout...



Reebs
 
Reebs said:
Wouldn't it be easier to just cut right above the main ball on both, then weld back on like someone already stated in this thread!?!?
Click to expand...

I would NOT do it this way, cut and re-thread the Steeda per Elky, it is the best way IMO.

~Josh
 
BrApple said:
I don't know the post but what I recall elky doing was to cut the steeda to the height of the B&M and then made the o-ring grooves in the same location as the B&M and then cap it off with the B&M reverse lockout, then you have to thread the steeda so you can put the stock shifter back on ....


so the easiest thing to do with out having to buy both is to get the measurment of the B&M from the pivot to the end and cut the Steeda to match, then get an aftermarket shift knob that would fit and eliminate the reverse lockout ...
Click to expand...


Or shorten the reverse locout parts.
 
Personally, I wish my Steeda was a little longer, and with a shorter throw. I also wish Ford had moved the shifter back about 6".
 
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