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Need GC answers ASAP

J

JnCsvt

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 29, 2006
Messages
215
Location
Lancaster, PA
Im installing in the morning, and i looked through the 29 pages in the suspension section

So if i read right, the fronts go - strut,gc sleeve, spring, aluminum hat, washer bearing washer, strut mount. correct?

The rears have me confused more so though. The instructions show that you use a bushing, but the GC's i just bought dont have a bushing.. do the stock rears already have the bushing in the mount?

I read on here that the bushing isint required.. but i dont want to have issues.

Also should i change my strut mounts while im doing this? and would a local parts store carry them?


Sorry for so many questions, but thanks in advance

-Pics would also help
 
As I remember, I just cut the stock bushings to fit. I would replace the top strut mounts while you have everything out. It isn't needed, but just a good idea.
 
JnCsvt said:
Im installing in the morning, and i looked through the 29 pages in the suspension section

So if i read right, the fronts go - strut,gc sleeve, spring, aluminum hat, washer bearing washer, strut mount. correct?

The rears have me confused more so though. The instructions show that you use a bushing, but the GC's i just bought dont have a bushing.. do the stock rears already have the bushing in the mount?

I read on here that the bushing isint required.. but i dont want to have issues.

Also should i change my strut mounts while im doing this? and would a local parts store carry them?


Sorry for so many questions, but thanks in advance

-Pics would also help
Click to expand...

Hey man,
Sorry i didnt see this earlier. I don't remember seeing the bushings when i took them out. I will check my strut mounts to see if maybe they got stuck in them, if i used them at all (i may not have).

For the fronts, all you need to do is put your upper strut mounts on, then put them in the car, then in the engine compartment put on the camber plate, then the nut. you dont use a second nut like on the stock coils. I recommend replacing the nuts, as they have lost their locking ability and came loose a couple times on me.

If i dont have the bushings for the rear, then i didnt have them installed, but i will check tonight.
 
I would strongly suggest it. Get the reinforced top plates.
-Andy
 
Ok, i guess ill have to look for some for sale.

It does seem to look like the wheels are leaning Inward a little since the suspension change, so i guess i do need to get a camber kit
 
If you are using Koni struts DO NOT use the camber kit with the GCs. you will break the top of the struts and Koni wont warrenty it. the camber kits put too much stress on the strut shaft when using GCs and the hollow shaft of the Konis is weak enough to break.
 
The shaft is hollow? wow i didnt know that well, i could always take the weight off loosen the bolt and pull the strut toward me then try bolting it down real tight:shrug:

I had the whole thing installed, but now i think i have to take the rears off so i can install the bushings..
 
I dont have the Camber Kit with the Koni/GC combination. There is no need for it as striker previously informed me not to. The car runs fine with the suspension installed. I believe him as well as several others have SNAPPED the Koni rods right up @ the top and this resulted in them needing a new strut.

NO CAMBER KIT.

- amyn
 
striker2 said:
If you are using Koni struts DO NOT use the camber kit with the GCs. you will break the top of the struts and Koni wont warrenty it. the camber kits put too much stress on the strut shaft when using GCs and the hollow shaft of the Konis is weak enough to break.
Click to expand...

i had my koni/gc/camber kits for 40000 miles and they never snapped. i was never hard on the car though. koni i dont think would warranty it anyway since u already cut the perches off, basically voiding their warranty to start. r u guys that are snapping the rod doing autocross or just from regular driving?
 
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