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igniton systems

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NIghthawk1824

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 27, 2008
Messages
226
Location
st.Louis ,MO
so i have had a misfire on my car now for over a month, i have tried new wires (auto lite pro series) and i also tried new plugs (auto lite dbl plats APP764)
changed the fuel filter, cleaned intake, egr, iac, and maf

its usually in the low rpms under 2000 usually

so i was wondering could it be the ignition coil itself

if so should i go with the accel super coil or just go with the stock motorcraft the price is not a huge concern:shrug:

if i get a new ignition coil then i will get new plugs and wires also
 
You do not need to replace the wires and plugs again unless you believe that they suddenly wore a lot.

The factory coil so far exceeds the need that I have never felt the Accel coil provides any benefit. I'm sure it will do no harm though.
 
it seems to, its hard to tell but when the secondaries open i never notice it

if i put the car in 5th at or around 35 to 40 that's when it becomes noticeable.

also when i just take of easy it will happen then to..

its usually about 4 or 5 misses/jerks then it stops when i get about 2500 or so rpm

if i rev it in neutral i can feel/hear it, also only under about 2500rpms
 
You should do a compression test and check your fuel pressure before you throw a coil on. There's a good chance that the coil IS the problem, but if you've got a small compression, or fuel delivery issue, that coil will just be wasted money.
 
mines the same.. but around 2 an 3k. an i was told possible dirty injectors.. to get fuel injectors cleaned... what do you think​

possibility??​

:help:

i have a new fuel pump, so i know its not that...​
 
svt1480 said:
mines the same.. but around 2 an 3k. an i was told possible dirty injectors.. to get fuel injectors cleaned... what do you think​

possibility??​

:help:

i have a new fuel pump, so i know its not that...​
Click to expand...

So stick a fuel pressure tester on it and road test it. If it is a weak pump it will show up easily with a running pressure test. The pressure will drop dramatically when it is acting up.

I'm more inclined to think it is dirty injectors.
 
For future use,

1) What should the fuel pressure be with key on/ car off?

2) What should fuel pressure be with car at idle?

3) What should fuel pressure be @ 2500rpm?

Also, I can't remember if these are return style, if so what would it be with the return clamped shut?

BTW, for the plug wires, you can check the resistance (ohms) on the cables and if they are all the same you should be fine. I can't recall what the acceptable range is but I can find out for ya.
 
Excact symptoms I had the problem was arcing from long white plug connector to side metal in Cyl 2. You could see the carbon track easily.

Mike
 
z06killinsbf said:
What should the fuel pressure be with key on/ car off?
Click to expand...
It should build to, and hold at between 45-60psi.

z06killinsbf said:
What should fuel pressure be with car at idle?What should fuel pressure be @ 2500rpm?
Click to expand...
There's is no listed spec for either of these.

With the vacuum line for the pressure regulator disconnected and plugged, fuel pressure should not vary more than 3psi while driving under all conditions.

z06killinsbf said:
Also, I can't remember if these are return style
Click to expand...
Your 98 IS a return-style.

z06killinsbf said:
what would it be with the return clamped shut?
Click to expand...
Because of the lack of an FRP sensor in the 98's, a clamped return line could possibly allow pressure to keep building until something broke/split/leaked. :help: Best-case scenario is driveability issues from excessive fuel pressure.
 
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