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Full vs Part Synthetic

CSVT_2004

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I checked out Bob is the Oil Guy Forum and didn't really find any comparisons on full and part synthetic oil. Did a thread search but nothing relevant, and checked the sticky...

Currently I'm using 5w-30 part synthetic, would it be better to run full or is there something bad with using full, or part?
 
Good question. Very good question. Perhaps part of the reason you couldn't learn much is because it is like a magic act, smoke and mirrors.

The real truth is that today's conventional oils perform on a par with synthetic oils. In some ways better. The big edge for synthetic is that you can extend the oil change interval. Synthetic also has an edge in extreme temperature conditions.

Synthetic blends are an improvement over conventional, but not by much.

Anyway, that's my $.02.
 
The real truth is that today's conventional oils perform on a par with synthetic oils. In some ways better.

The big edge for synthetic is that you can extend the oil change interval. Synthetic also has an edge in extreme temperature conditions.

Synthetic blends are an improvement over conventional, but not by much.

Honestly the only thing better about conventional oil is the price when you compare it to synthetic. Synthetics will do everything just a little bit better, but in the long run in 99% of cars it has no affect on performance, reliability, mileage, etc.

You're right about extending your oil change interval and in some cases that makes it cheaper to run than conventional oils even before you count taking it to a shop or crawling under there yourself. I myself horde oil that I get on sale after mail in rebate so its under $1 a quart even for the great stuff.

With synthetic blends performance really depends on the brand. MaxLife is a synthetic blend that actually beats some synthetic oils in performance tests while also having the high mileage additive bonus and a relatively low price. Castrol has some synthetic blends that are hardly different from their regular GTX line but you'll pay a little more for the name. Then you have the yellow Penzoil conventional which is technically a blend in certain weights. Check the back and if you see a plus by the oil type you're actually getting a borderline synthetic blend oil.
 
Honestly the only thing better about conventional oil is the price when you compare it to synthetic. Synthetics will do everything just a little bit better, but in the long run in 99% of cars it has no affect on performance, reliability, mileage, etc.

You're right about extending your oil change interval and in some cases that makes it cheaper to run than conventional oils even before you count taking it to a shop or crawling under there yourself. I myself horde oil that I get on sale after mail in rebate so its under $1 a quart even for the great stuff.

With synthetic blends performance really depends on the brand. MaxLife is a synthetic blend that actually beats some synthetic oils in performance tests while also having the high mileage additive bonus and a relatively low price. Castrol has some synthetic blends that are hardly different from their regular GTX line but you'll pay a little more for the name. Then you have the yellow Penzoil conventional which is technically a blend in certain weights. Check the back and if you see a plus by the oil type you're actually getting a borderline synthetic blend oil.

I use castrol syntec 5w-30 part synthetic.... partly for price, and partly because it's good for short trips from what it says on the bottle, just always used that since that's what we started with. My other tropic green has mobil1 in it, which I'll probably stick to on that one to keep it consistent... with the castrol I go 3000 miles then change it.... well I appreciate the input, and if anyone else has some feedback I'd love to hear it.

Thanks!
 
the real truth is that today's conventional oils perform on a par with synthetic oils. In some ways better. The big edge for synthetic is that you can extend the oil change interval. Synthetic also has an edge in extreme temperature conditions.

Synthetic blends are an improvement over conventional, but not by much.

Anyway, that's my $.02.
i agree. I've always used a friction reducer (molyslip/slick 50) and cheap oil from work !! I have never spun a bearing, never blown an engine and my engine never rattles when i start it..even if i leave it for a week. Recently, i put a socking great magnet on the oil filter to trap the smallest metal particles that pass through the filter. Now i change the filter regularly and flush the oil with seafoam. I'm happy that the molyslip lubricates the engine...the oil transports the heat away and the magnet stops the metal paste from lapping the engine into submission...G.
 
Wow, you're using several gimmick products there that arent needed at all. Oil is already loaded with friction modifiers, the filter already catches metal particles and engines dont need to be flushed unless something went horribly wrong in which case its coming apart anyway.
 
Wow, you're using several gimmick products there that arent needed at all. Oil is already loaded with friction modifiers, the filter already catches metal particles and engines dont need to be flushed unless something went horribly wrong in which case its coming apart anyway.
i can't believe you think molyslip isn't an excellent product. I'm new to seafoam, but i'm happy with it so far. As for the filter...well the main reason for everyone putting tri-metal bearings in the motor is because of the higher tolerance of metal inclusion....which begs the question...where is the metal coming from if the engine is doing such a fantastic job of filtering ?...right or wrong..i'm going to carry on the path i've taken...only time can prove the truth....G,
 
theres a reason people don't use additives. they can cause more problems. T H posted a report on additives and the destructive problems they cause.
 
Is anyone here aware of the differences of a group three and group four base for synthetic oils? Also, does anyone know how oils preform before and after they are heated up? Does anybody let their oil warm up to a certain temperature before they drive? These are some of a few things to discus when talking about the advantages of synthetic versus conventional oil. There have been outside test that show the differences of oils after extended use inside engines. Most engine wear is done on startup when there is no oil pressure. Next is wear done before the oil is at operating temperature. Yes, synthetic oil can go for longer intervals. That is the point of least concern to me when deciding to use it though. The important ones seem to be left out here. I see no reason why everybody should run anything but synthetic. The main concern for most people is price. I read a non bias test report on mobil 1 that showed the price difference after 75,000 miles of use. The car that used mobil 1 had half the service intervals as the car that didn't. The car that used mobil 1 returned slightly better fuel economy. When all was said and done, the mobil 1 car came in less than $100 cheaper. As impressive as that isn't, it's still cheaper to use synthetic. But tests have always showed that cars that do use synthetic have less engine wear. So why not use synthetic if it's going to be about the same price with better results?
 
theres a reason people don't use additives. they can cause more problems. T H posted a report on additives and the destructive problems they cause.
i'd be interested to read that, if anyone has a link, please....G.
 
i can't believe you think molyslip isn't an excellent product. I'm new to seafoam, but i'm happy with it so far.

Regardless of it being an excellent product its an unneeded extra additive. Oil off the shelf already comes with an anti-foam and anti-corrosion package so why would you need to add it to your oil? The guys over on BITOG will ask you the same thing. Seafoam on the other hand is a great product but most people will tell you it doesnt belong in the oil.
 
Regardless of it being an excellent product its an unneeded extra additive. Oil off the shelf already comes with an anti-foam and anti-corrosion package so why would you need to add it to your oil? The guys over on BITOG will ask you the same thing. Seafoam on the other hand is a great product but most people will tell you it doesnt belong in the oil.
Molyslip isn't an anti foam or anti corrosion product. No engine oil does what molyslip does. Seafoam went in my oil just before i changed it..as recommended...G.
 
conventional oil is not a consistent fluid. that's the difference.

think about it this way. its a million tiny balls that go between the parts that need lubricating. now some of the balls are smaller than others. so the protection is better in some places and worse in others. now remember, this is at a microscopic level.

now synthetic oils are much more even and consistent. how they withstand heat and how much longer you run them isn't so relevant really in this debate. all oils are dirty within minutes of cycling through the engine a couple times. the consistency of the fluid is what helps it protect better over LONG periods of time.

in a short term test, you would never be able to tell. thats why they make up these tests that are irrelevant for the most part.
 
Honestly the only thing better about conventional oil is the price when you compare it to synthetic. Synthetics will do everything just a little bit better, but in the long run in 99% of cars it has no affect on performance, reliability, mileage, etc.

You're right about extending your oil change interval and in some cases that makes it cheaper to run than conventional oils even before you count taking it to a shop or crawling under there yourself. I myself horde oil that I get on sale after mail in rebate so its under $1 a quart even for the great stuff.

With synthetic blends performance really depends on the brand. MaxLife is a synthetic blend that actually beats some synthetic oils in performance tests while also having the high mileage additive bonus and a relatively low price. Castrol has some synthetic blends that are hardly different from their regular GTX line but you'll pay a little more for the name. Then you have the yellow Penzoil conventional which is technically a blend in certain weights. Check the back and if you see a plus by the oil type you're actually getting a borderline synthetic blend oil.

Synthetic doesn't do everything a little bit better. In many ways it is no better, and in some ways it is not as good.
 
i agree. I've always used a friction reducer (molyslip/slick 50) and cheap oil from work !! I have never spun a bearing, never blown an engine and my engine never rattles when i start it..even if i leave it for a week. Recently, i put a socking great magnet on the oil filter to trap the smallest metal particles that pass through the filter. Now i change the filter regularly and flush the oil with seafoam. I'm happy that the molyslip lubricates the engine...the oil transports the heat away and the magnet stops the metal paste from lapping the engine into submission...G.

Originally, Slick 50's active ingredient was PTFE (Teflon). Dupont, the maker of Teflon would not recommend it for use as an oil additive. Slick 50 had quite a few run ins with the Feds over their unsubstantiated claims. The formula didn't change until after Shell reluctantly acquired the brand along with Penzoil and Quaker State. (The original was a Quaker State product.) Shell completely changed the product to get rid of the Teflon. I still think of it as snake oil, just not as questionable as before.
 
Is anyone here aware of the differences of a group three and group four base for synthetic oils? Also, does anyone know how oils preform before and after they are heated up? Does anybody let their oil warm up to a certain temperature before they drive? These are some of a few things to discus when talking about the advantages of synthetic versus conventional oil. There have been outside test that show the differences of oils after extended use inside engines. Most engine wear is done on startup when there is no oil pressure. Next is wear done before the oil is at operating temperature. Yes, synthetic oil can go for longer intervals. That is the point of least concern to me when deciding to use it though. The important ones seem to be left out here. I see no reason why everybody should run anything but synthetic. The main concern for most people is price. I read a non bias test report on mobil 1 that showed the price difference after 75,000 miles of use. The car that used mobil 1 had half the service intervals as the car that didn't. The car that used mobil 1 returned slightly better fuel economy. When all was said and done, the mobil 1 car came in less than $100 cheaper. As impressive as that isn't, it's still cheaper to use synthetic. But tests have always showed that cars that do use synthetic have less engine wear. So why not use synthetic if it's going to be about the same price with better results?

But most people don't extend their oil change interval when they use synthetic.

Fuel economy is not improved by using synthetic.

Engine wear is not reduced by using synthetic, at least not compared to API SL and API SM.

Synthetic is cleaner in that it is less prone to contribute to sludge. Conventional has better solibility so it tend to clean better. With proper additive blending, these end up being pretty much of a draw.


Do you know the difference between Group 1, Group II, Group II+, Group III, Group III+, Group IV, and Group V? How much of the differences can be compensated for with proper additive blending?
 
well maybe i will put conventional in for the first time on my next oil change. but thats going to be a while seeing as i extend the change cycle.
 
Originally, Slick 50's active ingredient was PTFE (Teflon). Dupont, the maker of Teflon would not recommend it for use as an oil additive. Slick 50 had quite a few run ins with the Feds over their unsubstantiated claims. The formula didn't change until after Shell reluctantly acquired the brand along with Penzoil and Quaker State. (The original was a Quaker State product.) Shell completely changed the product to get rid of the Teflon. I still think of it as snake oil, just not as questionable as before.
Hi Jim; absolutely right..this is why i changed to molyslip. ...G.
 
Molyslip isn't an anti foam or anti corrosion product. No engine oil does what molyslip does. Seafoam went in my oil just before i changed it..as recommended...G.

Directly from their website: "MolySlip is a colloidal suspension of molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) in a high grade, multi-viscosity engine oil that contains anti-foam agents and corrosion inhibitors." There is no need to add moly to engine oil and there is certainly no need to add more foam/corrosion additives.
 
Synthetic oil has a high break down point. Meaning it doesn't burn as fast as regular oil. Which is great because we all rev our cars to the max once and a while. While creating enough heat that we start to burn oil. In this case synthetic can fend for itself and not burn as badly as conventional oil. Synthetic has a longer break down point also which is why we can run the oil for longer periods and not have to worry about a bearing etc etc.

Synthetic is the best hands down.:cool:

I worked for Ashland oil back in 2001 :). Most of our information was sent to me and other representatives for educational purposes. After seeing many comparisons i stuck with synthetic.

Either you go conventional or synthetic. The BLEND was pointless and never performed better then the regular brand.
 
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