• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Oil Change problem - Stripped Thread!

H

Heywood

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
1,422
Location
Montreal
I just finished changing my oil and suspect I have a big problem. When I started undoing the sump plug, I put a little (and I mean not very much at all) pressure tightening it, and the bolt started turning with almost no resistance. There was a lot of fine metal in the oil that came out so I am hopeful that all the bits came out.

I put the bolt back in and it threaded in OK and tightened up firm (I didn't go too hard on it), and its not leaking oil, but I'm now concerned about starting the car. Does pressure build up in the sump?
Is the only way to fix this to replace the oil pan?
I am having some work done on the car this week in preparation for doing an open track run this weekend, so I could have something done then, but I just put 50 bucks worth of oil in it so I'd rather not.
So 2 questions:
1. Can I start the car and drive normally without blowing the plug out?
2. Do I need to replace the oil pan or have the thread repaired before I track the car this weekend?

Help please, I have a feeling this is going to be a big PITA.
 
Last edited:
It all depends how much thight the bolt is,
I recommand not to drive the car until you repair that
About pressure: there is some pressure in sump but it is not too much, you can feel it by opening the oil plug on the valve cover, and it reduces very much at high RPM (because of crankcase ventilation sucktion by manifold), do not be worry about prassure in the sump BUT as the engine warms up the sump expands and the bolt gets loose and possibly falls .
I am not sure how thick is the sump around the bolt there probably you can use the Hely coil or something like that which they use for rethreading spark plug holes.
the other way to repair it, is to fill the hole with a MIG Welder (not completely but to make a little bit meat!) then thread it to exact size of the original bolt but this is a little dificult and time consuming and to make the bolt, to sit on thesump probably it is needed to reface the sump with a drill( because welding ruins that) if you have time, welder, drill,.... it can be done!
better not to drive the car untill you repair it or replacing sump.
 
Thanks, I moved the car onto the street this afternoon and there were no problems (only had it running for a few minutes). I think I will leave it parked up until Thursday and then I'll try and drive it gently to my mechanic and have him put the 03 escape oil pan on it. Thats like a 20 minute drive so I really hope I make it.
Has anyone done the helicoil fix, I know I've read of plenty of people with stripped threads?
 
I have seen replacement drain plugs at auto stores that have a rubber thing that bulges up inside the oil pan. Looks dorky but like it might work.

Mike
 
mrutkaus said:
I have seen replacement drain plugs at auto stores that have a rubber thing that bulges up inside the oil pan. Looks dorky but like it might work.
Click to expand...

Those are usually freeze plugs, not oil pan drain plugs. They should sell an oversized drain plug designed to kinda re-tap damaged threads though.
 
Dyoel182 said:
Those are usually freeze plugs, not oil pan drain plugs. They should sell an oversized drain plug designed to kinda re-tap damaged threads though.
Click to expand...
Heard about those when I was talking to my mechanic. He said they are usually OK, but can be hit or miss. I just ordered a new oil pan from Bill, should be here tomorrow. Either way its 6 quarts of RP down the drain (not literally of course).

I'm still nervous about driving to the mechanic. Anyone got any suggestions for extra precautions I can take to stop the plug coming out?
 
Last edited:
That's not a bad idea, but I think the mechanic might get pissed because there wouldn't be any way to drain the oil? Or the JB weld won't stick because of the oil?
I think I will see if I can somehow wire the bolt in place so if it gives up it only leaks slowly.
 
An oil pan swap is really quite easy. I would just do it myself.

As for saving your oil, you could, if you wanted to.

I would strain it thru something once it was drained into a new clean container of some sort before re-using it.

I don't know if oil would drain thru a coffee filter or not but that would take out any small particles left over from the threads.

I guess if I were to do it I would get two cheap plastic containers. One to drain it into and then one to filter the oil into. Once filtered, reuse.

Just an idea.
 
SHOgoFast said:
.....
As for saving your oil, you could, if you wanted to.

I would strain it thru something once it was drained into a new clean container of some sort before re-using it.

I don't know if oil would drain thru a coffee filter or not but that would take out any small particles left over from the threads.

I guess if I were to do it I would get two cheap plastic containers. One to drain it into and then one to filter the oil into. Once filtered, reuse.

Just an idea.
Click to expand...
I don't know about reusing oil. As it is, OP is concerned that he might not have got all the metal fines out. I would say the $50 worth of oil is worth throwing out this time.

OP, if you are really concerned about the drain plug coming out, I suggest you get it towed to the mechanic. That way, you can also guarantee that the metal fines are not swirling in the engine.
 
I had done the same thing to my 460 (7.5 ltr). I tried the oversize plug for a quick fix. Thinking that I would end up changing out the pan at some point. Lost about a half quart of oil on the change up and quite messy! I have had it like that for 5 years now and 86K miles.
I am not sure if the Tour has a 'nut' welded into the pan like my 460 does. If it does have that an oversize plug works great.
 
I'll look into towing, but I feel a bit better about the plug. It wasn't like it was spinning freely in there.
I am pretty sure that all the metal came out by the size and amount of the material in the collector. It was flushed out with nearly 6 quarts of oil after all.
New pan should be here tomorrow, but I have it booked in to the garage on Thursday to have other work done so it will be going on then.
 
mrutkaus said:
I have seen replacement drain plugs at auto stores that have a rubber thing that bulges up inside the oil pan. Looks dorky but like it might work.

Mike
Click to expand...

or the guy can just have the hole retapped to a size up and get a bigger bolt.

Problem solved.
 
Oil can be filtered through a paint filter/strainer. Of course replacing is your best option.

4583.jpg
 
I only mention because each stick and pickup tube is made for the different oil pans, so I have heard. Someone will chime in about it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top