98 contour se p1383

[steve6]

I am receiving engine code p1383 , I just bought this car and don't really know much about this ford engines, I am reading about a CVT soloneid, can someone describe where this is? The timing belt was changed less than 10,000 km's ago, could it be possible that it has jumped? It was done by a dealer in the winter time.

Basically the car drives fine but little power, I have noticed I will get to points where it is powerless, and you can force through it with the gas but blue smoke is coming out the tailpipe, is this this 'CVT' sticking? The old owner got rid of it because he says it started stalling on him, but it has not stalled on me yet.

Any suggestions are recommended would be appreciated. (diagrams are great to show me these components!)

ISSUE
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may be
illuminated and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
P1380, P1381 and/or P1383 may be stored in
memory. The vehicle may also have a rough idle or
reduced power condition, and/or may stall at an
idle. These conditions usually occur at an odometer
reading below 320 kilometers (200 miles). This may
be caused by:
• Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) control system
stuck with a machining chip
• Exhaust camshaft timing trigger wheel being
mispositioned
• Engine base timing incorrect
• VCT hollow oil feed bolt being plugged with
debris
• Electrical issues including oil contamination in
connectors and intermittent open solenoid circuit
when hot due to improperly functioning solenoid
magnet

 

[Dec1000]

Code P1383 indicates the cam is too far retarded during its “at-rest” position. The majority of the time when you see this code, it has set because the timing belt was installed incorrectly. Take it back to where they installed. With the VCT solenoid if the timing is not done right you will receive the P1381 code or P1383 code. Did they install new idlers and tensensioner when they did the job?

 

[steve6]

Code P1383 indicates the cam is too far retarded during its “at-rest” position. The majority of the time when you see this code, it has set because the timing belt was installed incorrectly. Take it back to where they installed. With the VCT solenoid if the timing is not done right you will receive the P1381 code or P1383 code. Did they install new idlers and tensensioner when they did the job?

I have no idea what they actually did, I bought this car from a friend who had just had enough of it. I told him to make sure he took it to the dealer 6 months ago for the timing job to ensure it was done properly, burns my ass that it seems as if the job was f'ed up. Does anyone have any pictures to do the timing belt (or check it). Picture reference would really help.

The blue smoke is what really worries me(only once in a while it happens), I hope its just huge amounts of gas being dumped in the chamber due to the timing being out of wack.

 

[amc49]

Am assuming that it's a 4 cylinder by description. Pictures may not help, it's a little complicated as compared to some engines, there are several fine points to observe when doing timing. It definitely AIN'T line up the marks and tighten it up. You need a special tool to line up the cams once valve cover is removed. I used a 9 inch long piece of 3/16 keyway stock from a hardware store, plus a couple of feeler gauges to add up .012-.013" more thickness. The special tool actually needs to be about .200" thick, I just faked it, worked perfectly when I did my belt job. Cost about $5.

 

[amc49]

On the left (passenger) side of top of valve cover, there is an electrical wire that ends at a solenoid that sticks up thru cover and has a round rubber cover. That wire controls the VCT timing. Make sure that wire is not broken, corroded. Probably not the problem, but it's easy to check it.

 

[steve6]

So the chances are the timing is fubared, it wouldn't just be the VCT f'ing up you figure?

 

[mcgarvey]

The lack of power is a dead give away that they screwed up the timing. The VCT solenoid only adjusts the exhaust cam enough to allow an EGR effect without the use of an EGR valve. A failed VCT solenoid should not cause a loss of power like you described. This is not VTEC. The purpose of the system is not to provide additional power- it's strictly an emission control.

Either way, the first step is to check the timing belt. It's pretty easy to do at home- especially if you're just retiming it and not replacing the belt. You will need the TDC tools. Then you remove the valve cover and upper timing cover which will give you access to the tensioner and both cam gears. Use the crank pin to find TDC on the bottom end and then see if you can slide the cam aligning tool into the slots. If the timing is off you can adjust it with the crank pulley and accessory belt still on (of course you cannot replace the timing belt this way). Loosen the cam gear bolts (Torx T-55) and turn the cams so you can fit the alignment plate in. Double check the crank position and then tighten up the Cam gear bolts. No need to relieve the timing belt tension, and even if you wanted to, you could with only the upper timing cover removed.

It's really not a big deal, you just need the right tools. To replace the timing belt is significantly harder because you have to remove the accessory belt, Lower and middle timing covers, motor mount, coolant reservoir, and put a jack under the oil pan.

Of course, there's a chance this won't fix your code, in which case you'll be stuck replacing the VCT solenoid, or just living with the check engine light. My bet is on incorrect timing.

Good luck!

 

[AliasJerk]

p1383 suggests your timing is screwed up, if your car is on the original timing belt system the tensioner is probably failing, causing the worn out belt to stretch and easily slip. Chances are you Ran the car hard once and the timing belt jumped a tooth, which is just enough to make the car run like ass.

time for a new timing belt a idlers/tensions, a shop will charge you about $700 for the timing belt replacement, its a fairly in depth job. I've done about 2 different cars, and my own about 5 times before I got the timing perfectly on (of course I didnt have the Timing kit, I fabricated my own tools, which didnt work out so well).

The blue smoke suggests your motor is burning oil (obviously), there is a couple of major things that might cause this, the biggest of which is fryed piston rings allowing oil to blow by into the combustion chamber. the other of which might be a PCV issue, since the zetecs are not known for having fryed piston rings (in fact, I have never seen it in my life), I would suggest a PCV valve replacement should be done. However, someone should chime in if I am wrong.

 

[mcgarvey]

He said the belt was recently replaced. Hence my instructions on how to reset the timing without messing without removing the belt itself, the crank pulley, or the accessory belt. Also, timing belts do not stretch, they have internal strands of fiberglass specifically to prevent this. They are not constructed like serpentine belts. Either the shop messed up the timing, or messed up the tension, causing it to jump time.

 

[steve6]

Thanks for the replies and msg dec1000, I guess its pretty over whelming that its the timing screwed up. I would really just prefer to take it back to the dealer and at them till they fix if if intact they f'd up the job. It has only been a couple months and my buddy paid about $650 to get it done.

if it stops being 35c outside maybe ill pull some covers off and have a look.


:laugh: