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Problems with my poor car. :(

9

96Mystique

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
192
I have a '96 Mystique with a 2.0L Zetec, with an auto trans. Just within the last few weeks, the car has been terrible. It's died while sitting at lights, and stop signs, even while driving slow. Only does this when the I don't keep my foot on the throttle, to keep the RPMs around 1k. Well, here lately, the car has started to jerk, while driving. Seems like it only happens in second gear, and gaining speed. Here's the twist. I was measuring my MPG, by resetting the trip-o-meter (whatever it's called), everytime I would fill my car up with fuel. I would divide the miles I have driven by the amount of fuel that was put in the tank. I was averaging about 25-27MPG. The last 2 times I have filled up the car, I've been averaging 30-33MPG. This is while the car has to be kept at around 1k RPM idle, and all the jerking. When it first started happening, I got a code, which was P0102. Mass Air Flow Circuit low input. It did this before, and I bought a new MAF sensor, and it curred the problem, or I thought it did. I then thought it could be the wiring, so I followed it as much as I could, and everything seems fine. I'm beginning to think it's just the transmission going out, but since I'm not a mechanic, nor any good with transmissions, I'm here asking for suggestions that you all think it may be?

Just if it matters, I can not tell if the car is in O/D or not, as no lights, nor the button works?

EDIT : There is a cold air intake on the car. Which may be the cause of the trouble code? I have been wanting a factory replacement, but have yet to find one. Even when the old air box was on it, it gave me the trouble code though.
 
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Any CEL codes? What do you mean by the O/D light or button does not work?
 
The only CEL I have is a P0102. When I press the O/D switch on the shifter, the light does not turn on to show that the O/D has been disengaged (Light on, saying O/D off). The O/D is constantly on, because there is no light, and just a few days ago the light was on saying the O/D was disengaged, and it wouldn't shift when it normally would. I.E. Usually when I do 45MPH I sit at 2400RPM, that day, I was sitting at 3000RPM with the light on saying the over drive is disengaged.
 
Sounds like you're having problems with the O/D switch. Pull apart the shifter assembly and check all the connections for the O/D.
 
Dyoel182 said:
What kind of air filter are you using?
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I'm using a conical air filter. It's cheap, but I clean it every time I do the regular maintenance. I have ordered a K&N filter, about 2 months ago, but I have moved 3 times since then, so I have to figure out where it's at. The one I have is one that came out of a CAI kit off of ebay, just to give an idea of how bad it is. ;)

zorrex said:
Sounds like you're having problems with the O/D switch. Pull apart the shifter assembly and check all the connections for the O/D.
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I'm not sure if this is my problem, although I do believe it has something to do with the over drive, so the switch could definitely be causing a problem.

I have drove it everyday since the last time I posted, and have had it only bog/jump (don't know how to put it), only once or twice. It's been idling a little bit better it stays around 500RPM and doesn't die right away after sitting in drive without my foot on the gas. I am suspecting a problem in the fuel system, because I drop my girlfriend off at work, and the parking lot there is on a slope that you have to drive down to get out of the lot, and every time I take her to work, I'll start driving down that slope and not have my foot on the gas. It'll die right at the bottom, and I'm doing about 15-20MPH. But it seems like the car is running rich (too much fuel). Once I thought about that I took the CAI apart and turned it into a WAI thinking that the length of the air intake was way too long, and taking way too much time to get to the intake. It has been running better since then. (Idling better, not dying.) I do plan on changing the Catalytic converter soon, because I'm starting to get to the 80,000 mile mark on the motor, and with it running rich it'll destroy the converter.

Quick questions. How can I tell the catalytic converter has failed? Is there any reason why my car would smell like sulfur if I drive it for an extended period of time?
 
Sulfur smell is from bad mixture or even the brand of fuel. I had a bad Upstream 02 sensor cause that sometimes until the CEL came on.
 
Sulfur smell usually from too rich. Converter having to burn too much mixture.
 
Ok, I have replaced the MAF sensor, and that got rid of the CEL, and the smell, but it's still bucking pretty bad. Doesn't matter how fast I am going, I could be do anywhere from 25-125MPH and it still bucks. (I haven't gone 125MPH, just 70MPH...) I read a thread about the MLPS/TR Sensor, could this be my problem? When it bucks, it seems like it doesn't want to stay in gear, which is why it sounds like this MAY be the problem. I can't take my car to a mechanic, as I am in the process of buying another car, and all my spare money is going to that. I am also cleaning up from flood damage, so lots of cash is going to that. Could it be a bad TR Sensor? I don't know what the symptoms are of the TR sensor failing, but from what I have read, it sounds like the problem I am having.
 
You say it feels like it wants to go out of gear??? Well, does it ever hesitate when you FIRST put it in gear? I mean, if your parked and throw it into drive, does it ever hesitate to do it?
 
zorrex said:
You say it feels like it wants to go out of gear??? Well, does it ever hesitate when you FIRST put it in gear? I mean, if your parked and throw it into drive, does it ever hesitate to do it?
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There's about a 1-2 second delay before it goes into gear. While driving and it starts acting up, it feels as if it's trying to slip out of gear, but it doesn't do it very often (maybe once or twice every 2 weeks.) I've priced a few new (used/reman) transmissions, and they are very expensive, and I don't really have the money to buy one at the moment.
 
Check your PCV valve and the hose. Sometimes the hose can get holes in it.

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