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Question to anyone with msds headers

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billu427

New CEG'er
Joined
Jan 16, 2008
Messages
8
Hey all, I have a question about the header install on the 2.5. I want to put a set of msds headers on my contour but the install looks like it would be a nightmare to access the nut on the stock exhaust manifolds. Any insight on this matter would be greatly appreciated .
 
It is a nightmare, with that said it can be done. Just prepare to have bloody knuckles.

Access from underneath the car is very very helpful, if not a must.
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remove the upper manifold and rear valve cover,makes getting to the top corner much easier. for the front,i always remove the radiator...more than likeyly its time for your coolant system to be flushed anyways
 
Use lots of PB Blaster, and a set of flex-head, ratchet-wrenches came in kinda handy. I have removed the radiator on my car, and left it in on another. I did have more room with it out, but you don't need to. I needed the extra space to get at a stripped nut on the exhaust manifold. But Chris is right, it's a good time to change fluid anyway. :laugh:

You will also want an understanding and sympathetic helper, and a large selection of curse words. :laugh:
 
Thanks to every one who replied .I have decided to go ahead with the install
but there are other things that I want to do at the same time so I think the best thing for me to do is drop the motor and do it that way. thanks for all the info .
 
getsum111 said:
Use lots of PB Blaster, and a set of flex-head, ratchet-wrenches came in kinda handy. I have removed the radiator on my car, and left it in on another. I did have more room with it out, but you don't need to. I needed the extra space to get at a stripped nut on the exhaust manifold. But Chris is right, it's a good time to change fluid anyway. :laugh:

You will also want an understanding and sympathetic helper, and a large selection of curse words. :laugh:
Click to expand...

Yep, flex-head ratchet wrenches and PBlaster.
I read your last line and the first thing that I though of was...
elraido said:
Beer.....
Click to expand...

We had a nice collection of Yuengling bottles lined up on the workbench when we did the first install. That one was actually easy, we just took our time since it was the first install. The second and third were much easier.

The fourth set, well, there was more beer, laughing and a pizza delivery dude involved since none of us could drive. ;) OK, the owner of the car that we were working on could drive but his car us up in the air, he wasn't going anywhere. ;) That car didn't want to cooperate. :(

We never remove the radiator, valve covers or UIM. It's good to have a helper to help you reach the top studs, it can be done.

Take your time and follow the how-to and you will be fine. With that said, good luck. :D
 
Agreed with the helper for the top manifold nuts. Trying to do it alone cost me at least 3 hours and 6 beers! :mad: :laugh:

2nd time was better, since Justin was able to hold the socket on the nuts to keep them from slipping off.
 
I really didn't have a hard time at all with the front manifold. I was able to access all of the bolts from the top without taking out the radiator either. The back was the PITA. Although I was replacing my CV boots and my intermediate shaft at the same time so with those out of the way there was TONS of room. All you needed was a few extensions and a universal joint and all of the rear manifold bolts came off easy.

If you don't have to drop the motor to do the other mods you plan on doing... Don't. It's not worth all the work to disconnect everything to drop the motor if you don't have too.

Just my two cents... I also posted pictures in that how-to that was started for the header install. If you need more pics just let me know as I took enough to write my own how-to as well.
 
If I don't have to drop the motor that would sure save time ,I wanted to do the valve cover gaskets,headers and inner tierods andI put an updated oilpan on it and there is one bolt thats right over top of the subframe that really hard to get tight and I know that it could be tighter. also can't keep coolant in the overflow tank so I just wanted to check things out
 
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Putting headers on took me about 12 hours to do but that's taking alot of breaks to keep my patience in check. When I was almost done I saw that my alternator had a crack in the housing so when I pulled it to put the new one in I saw that I could reach the back header bolts really easy. Wish I new that earlier.
 
At the front you're stiffed unless you drop the sub/raise the drivetrain. For the rr, remove the intermediate shaft and there's tons of room. I did mine while I had the trans out for rebuilding/LSD install.

Do them with your 3.0 install...
 
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