Looking for Comments - Motor mount and axle repair

[Heywood]

I have noticed a bit of vibration when accelerating over the last couple of months. Sometimes its very noticable and other times not at all. I took it in to AJ USA today to have them look at it.
They said that there are 2 problems they could see.
First, the bracket for the intermediate axle support is cracked as best they can tell without pulling the exhaust. They said they noticed a bit of movement when pushing on it with a pry bar. I think this is near the inner cv joint. (I noticed the axle had a little play when looking for possible causes, but it wasn't much.)
Second, the rear motor mount is cracked. I asked them for more detail on this and the manager wasn't exactly sure what the problem was, whether it was the rubber or whatever. He's going to look for himself and get back to me.

It seems like these little gems could be quite expensive. Has anyone had similar problems? Any suggestions for other things to have done while I have them working in there? I was thinking about doing poly filled rear roll restrictors at some point, maybe this is the time.

Appreciate any and all input.

 

[BAD SVT]

a cracked motormount probably just means the rubber shock absorber inside is worn or cracked, thats all. you can replace them yourself with a few jackstands and a couple friends. As for the axles, just get new ones. they cost about 40bucks or less per side. those i'd pay to get installed tho. i've never tried installing them. a shop would probably charge you a couple of hours of labor.

 

[Heywood]

Thanks. I just spoke to the shop a bit more today. They have been pricing out the parts.
They said it would be about 100 bucks for the bracket and 450 for a new axle assembly because they don't sell the intermediate shaft bearing on its own. I am going to call Bill Jenkins to confirm this and see if he can't do a better price. Labour was not bad, he said probably 3 hours to switch them out.
Motor mounts, I agree, but I think I will have them do it, he said about 1 hour labour to get it switched. This is what I thought was causing the vibration so I have already looked into replacing these some. I had decided on putting a poly filled RR on the front and a stock one on the back. What do you think?

My brakes are also done, so I am upgrading to the warmonger kit and ss lines so I'm excited about this. They said my rotors need to be replaced too but hopefully they are not too far gone to use on the rear. I plan on doing this myself over a weekend.

 

[B3NN3TT]

Yeah that mid-shaft is hella expensive. Get a junkyard part.

 

[PurpleMystique]

My brakes are also done, so I am upgrading to the warmonger kit and ss lines so I'm excited about this. They said my rotors need to be replaced too but hopefully they are not too far gone to use on the rear. I plan on doing this myself over a weekend.

Don't skimp on something as important as brakes, do it right the first time. Rotors are cheap.

 

[Heywood]

The reason I want to reuse them, is that if I get new ones I will have to turn them down anyway. As long as they still have enough meat on them I will just have them turned - it will save some grinding to make them fit in the rear calliper.

 

[BAD SVT]

Thanks. I just spoke to the shop a bit more today. They have been pricing out the parts.
They said it would be about 100 bucks for the bracket and 450 for a new axle assembly because they don't sell the intermediate shaft bearing on its own. I am going to call Bill Jenkins to confirm this and see if he can't do a better price. Labour was not bad, he said probably 3 hours to switch them out.
Motor mounts, I agree, but I think I will have them do it, he said about 1 hour labour to get it switched. This is what I thought was causing the vibration so I have already looked into replacing these some. I had decided on putting a poly filled RR on the front and a stock one on the back. What do you think?

My brakes are also done, so I am upgrading to the warmonger kit and ss lines so I'm excited about this. They said my rotors need to be replaced too but hopefully they are not too far gone to use on the rear. I plan on doing this myself over a weekend.

good to see you have it all mapp'd out. as for the restrictors, thats not a bad idea about getting just solid fronts. softer ones in the back reduce dash rattle a bit.

 

[Heywood]

Thanks Bad_svt. I was thinking about the roll restrictor a bit more and wondering whether doing the rear one (firewall side) would be more effective since the trans will want to turn that way when you get on the gas?

Ordered fsvt rotors on friday and waiting for a call back from nautlius about the brackets. Unless anyone has a better suggestion, I'm going to order the ss lines and ate fluid from tirerack this week too.