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Need help on a complete suspension rebuild

govenatorx

Be Gentle I'm New Here
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
3
Location
CT
Thanks for reading my post. I have a 1998.5 SVT Contour E1 that has over 109,000 miles. All that I have done to the car for the suspension was to replace the shocks/struts appx 40,000 miles ago.

The car floats. Plain and simple. In the turns it is not planted and I get a boat load of wheel spin on the inside wheel, much more than years ago. Therefore, I want to rebuild the entire suspension, I just don't have a clue as to what parts I should get for my mechanic to install.

I want to maintain the stock suspension as much as possible, and don't desire to make the handling any better than stock. However, if you think a certain set of struts will still give me a decent ride, and good handling, then please advise.

Thanks for your help in advance. I want to keep the car. Your responses will help me.
 
I forgot to add that when I really get on it in first or second gear, and the front wheels start to spin, they don't just spin, but rather spin and bounce. Any ideas?
 
I forgot to add that when I really get on it in first or second gear, and the front wheels start to spin, they don't just spin, but rather spin and bounce. Any ideas?

Poly roll resistors front and rear and new struts. That will help, but not cure it. It sucks and there's not a lot you can do.

OEM Struts are what you want. Contact Bill Jenkins at Teamfordparts.com.
 
I forgot to add that when I really get on it in first or second gear, and the front wheels start to spin, they don't just spin, but rather spin and bounce. Any ideas?

This is not a suspension issue. There are 3 things you can do to combat wheelspin/wheelhop. First check the stab-o-shoc. Betcha' all the hydraulic fluid has leaked out and it's totally useless. It was a decent idea, but my Street Link solid brace is much better. Secondly, adding a LSD to your transaxle reduces wheelspin and wheelhop but it's big bucks once you factor in the cost of removing and rebuilding the trans. Thirdly, boxing the front A arms reduces the tendency of the arms to flex under decelerative/accelerative loads. Another big job but not as intensive as a transaxle rebuild.

PM me if you want more info.
 
Bradness' products do work. I had his front A arms on my SVT for a bit before my accident and they worked great. I also had the PRT mounts, Stab-o shock and LSD. The front A arms that he made were very solid :).

Aaron
 
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