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Latching gas door

Aussie Ford said:
What have you done to resolve the problem? My 95 has this and it works perfect. When you push the release the fuel door pops open a bit. Did you try a little dressing of some sort like Armour All on the seal?
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nothing, don't care enough at the moment ... well I found a matching color mystique in the junkyard so I tried to get that door since it worked but I couldn't get it out because of the cable and I couldn't get into the trunk ...
 
Aussie Ford said:
As I understand it Ford did it to cut cost. This was just part of the other items they took away from this car during the 98 change. I have heard that some had these problems, but anything can go wrong at some point. That's why the extra manual release is in the trunk.


AF
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Ford got rid of it for the 97 model year. part of it may have been to cut costs but because it was not done with the major change over i suspect not. every 95-96 i have seen has this problem. if it didnt stick then i would be more willing to do the swap.
 
BrApple said:
nothing, don't care enough at the moment ... well I found a matching color mystique in the junkyard so I tried to get that door since it worked but I couldn't get it out because of the cable and I couldn't get into the trunk ...
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The interior trunk release wouldn't work? and I suppose the seat backs were locked..... dammm. Isn't your Tour tropic green?

striker2 said:
Ford got rid of it for the 97 model year. part of it may have been to cut costs but because it was not done with the major change over i suspect not. every 95-96 i have seen has this problem. if it didnt stick then i would be more willing to do the swap.
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My friend at work had a 95 Mystique that it always worked ok, and like I said mine has always worked fine or else I wouldn't be thinking of doing it to my 99.
 
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Aussie Ford said:
The interior trunk release wouldn't work? and I suppose the seat backs were locked..... dammm. Isn't your Tour tropic green?
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no the interior trunk release works but the fuel door release doesn't. I have to open the trunk and relase the fuel door from the overide relase in the trunk when I fuel up ...

my 95 is the champagne color ... my tours are medium steel blue mettalic and black ...
 
I meant on the jy car for the trunk release not working, and the seat backs locked .... the other two options for trunk access.

Our 95's are the same color..lol
 
This is one of my top list mods

This is one of my top list mods

I have a 97 that I plan on doing this to I have one on my vic, but it's electric, I also have a spare solenoid from the vic but I think it would be to big. The junkyard near me has a 95 that's also black. The whole mechanism seems to work fine. I like the smooth look so much more it's extra nice on my vic because have the rear defrost intergraded antenae and no plugs on the body. I recently removed the badges on the tour and am contemplating the door ding guard removal, these three mods will make it look all slick. then I shall deem her the black blob.
 
I do remember that when the 95 and 96 were under warranty, problems with the fuel door were far too common. I wrote up many of them. This is not a retrofit I would be interested in doing because of its troublesome nature.

Ford had a lot of problems with early Tauruses too with the same type of system.
 
Big Jim said:
There is an emergency release accessible from inside the trunk. If it fails too, that would be a lot of fun.
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I thought that was the case, but I wasn't sure, alrighty.... so to add this, you'd have to cable up to the front, swap your trunk lever, for a dual action one, added a cabling to the trunk interior... an retrofit the door to the car... sound about right?
 
That's sounds like it, but you replace the door if that is what you mean by retrofit. There of course is a latch involved with the door replacement. One can figure it all out when getting the parts off a donor car.

AF
 
Aussie Ford said:
That's sounds like it, but you replace the door if that is what you mean by retrofit. There of course is a latch involved with the door replacement. One can figure it all out when getting the parts off a donor car.

AF
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True my friend. and yes, you assumed right.
 
pulled the parts today and this is pretty much only a good idea for a 97. parts needed are fuel door( if you can not get in the trunk this isn't a problem, remove the screw that hold on the gas cap and remove the gas cap, then twist the round part that houses the latch and it will pop out it is connected in the trunk so you will have to bust it to get the other parts out intact, then simply pry gently behind the top of the seal that surrounds the fuel door housing and there is a metal peice you push down then pry out around the edges) Then you will have to get the other parts from another donor. You will need the door and housing intact or not it can be changed to another housing easily if needed. then you will need plastic housing in the trunk that the cable goes through, the latch for the fuel door, the plastic housing for the latch and the release from near the driver's seat. NOW WHY THIS WON'T WORK FOR THE 98+ there is a peice of metal that hold both the mechanism that the cable goes through and the latch for the fuel door and removing this from the donor car would require cut out the rear fender and grind down this bracket then spot weld or adhere it to the fender inside your own tour. to put this on the 97's a hole will have to be drilled for the latch to go through. on the other hand a good way to get the look without all the troubles is to simply use the flat door inside your original housing and simply use the little plastic peice that plugs into the non-pop latch. then the door can still be easily opened with a tiny metal pry that can be put on your keys.
 
Thanks for doing the leg work there my friend....... a mounting bracket Hmmmmm ..... I should have known ford wouldn't make it that easy, DARN THEM!!!

Well I got my Tropic /Amazon Green paint for my mirror covers so this weekend I'm working on heated mirrors anyway.
 
Ok, so today I went an had a look too. That bracket is in place with a couple of spot welds. They can be drilled out from inside the trunk after removing the antenna. The bracket can then be reinstalled with a couple of tapping screws since there is room on the other side without causing a problem. I don't see an issue with doing this. Looked like it could be done to any year Tour, to me.

There are couple of things to deal with. Removing the cable seems to be a bit of a pain and it has to be removed from the mechanism first. Then the part that has the manual release needs to be removed from the bracket, and the rod from the latch. Then the latch removes from the housing and the housing from the inner splash shield. Once the latch housing has been removed then remove the retaining screw and rotate the door and splash shield counterclockwise and remove it.

I did not look further at this time into the routing and removal of the cable as time was short.

AF
 
the cable appeared to me to go up over the top of the gas door inside the trunk then in behind theright side of the rear seats, under the rear cushion to the driver's side and then under the trim along the driver's side up to the latch, I'm lucky because this is all the same for my 97. All that need to be repaced for mine is the trunk/fuel latch, the fuel door w/latch, the mechanism the latch connects to and then a hole for the latch drilled.
 
Thanks for the info that's what I saw also. I may go and see if I can remove the cable part this weekend. It must run up behind the seat bolster on the passenger side I'm thinking.
 
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