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just got a 98 svt but needs a engine

H

HAZZARD

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 19, 2006
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The blue lights behind you
So im new here and new to contours, but not new to cars or fords. been turning a wrench on mustangs all my life.

I just got a new toy and im looking for a little help with it.
Its a 1998 svt contour with a bad motor, it runs but has a bad knock and overheats, think the oil pump wint bad.
I need to get a motor in it for as cheep as possable, Im going to use it as my daily driver for awhile.
Im looking to get a used engine, but finding the 2.5 in not that easy. I keep seeing the 3.0 swaps out of the 01+ taurus. I can find thoes engines for cheap all day long.
I would like to know whats involved in the swap i know their are diffrent ways to do it, but whats the cheeper way to go, I can do all the work myself?

I have searched a lot, and i get alittle info here and their, but most of its for the non svt contours useing some svt parts.
What if you have a svt and want to put a 3.0 in it, what do you need to do to make it work?

Are their some guidelines out their, or websites im missing?
 
people do 3.0L swaps all of the time, way better then throwing a non SVT 2.5L or even an SVT 2.5L in there.

Check out the 3.0L forum here, you can get all of the answers you seek there. its actually a pretty easy swap and gives you nice gains of power.

Just make sure you get a DURATEC 3.0L out of a taurus, not a Vulcan 3.0L :)
 
Where do you live? There are alot of CEGers who have gone 3L, and I'm sure someone local would be more than willing to help you out with advice and opinions.

There are mainly 3 different 3L setups... I'm not sure which is cheapest if you do everything yourself, but pick the one that is best for you.

Setup #1 - Full oval port 3L - Basically it is the entire engine from the Duratech Taurus, Escape, or Sable from 2001+, Block, heads, intake manifolds. There is some custom fabricating and stuff that will need to be done to make the full oval port 3L work, but you should have no problem doing it. That also is why it would help to find a local 3L CEGer who can come over and help you out on a few things once you drop the engine in. And yes you can use your SVT cams so that it pulls to redline! Some prefer to use the stock cams if you like the power lower for daily driving and not racing. I don't know a ton about the fabrication that you will need to do, because I am going with the 3rd setup listed.

Setup #2 - Hybrid 3L with SVT heads and Intake - Basically with this option you will use the 3L block and mate it up to your SVT heads by port matching it so that it will work. Then your SVT intake manifolds will bolt right up to this setup, obviously!

Setup #3 - 3L block with 3L heads and SVT upper and lower intake manifolds - This setup is usually run by guys in forced induction, because of the lower compression heads of the 3L and the fact that we don't want boost running through the plastic 3L intake manifold (I think some guys have had the throttle body blow off the manifold or something when using the plastic 3L?!?!). Anyways, There also is a good amount of work that needs to be done to make the SVT intake manifolds fit the 3L heads.

The advantage of setup #2 and #3 is that once you get the engine put together and port matched, etc... then it is drop in ready and you won't need to fab anything to make it work once it is in there. It will use all the SVT parts attached to the Upper intake manifold etc... Also, the SVT intake manifolds look much cooler, and you can still look stock so nobody knows of your added power!

If you can do everything yourself, I would go with Setup #2 if you don't plan on running boost. But that is just my opinion. If you want tap into all of these intelligent CEGers minds, then do your research and then ask your questions. This will prevent people from flaming you and not giving advice. I saw that you tried to search, but you needed some help, so I am glad to help you out! And yes, search the old 3L forums like Tony said. This new forum doesn't have as much useful information yet.


And Welcome to CEG!!! ;)


Reebs (Jeff)
 
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Thanks for the help guys finly found what i was looking for. I did find out how the swaps work by searching, but It took many hours at looking through old post here and on the old forum, before i even asked. there was just no clear cut anwsers on how to do it but now I got it after looking more.

looks like I will do the 3.0 long block swap with svt cams, timing and upper and lower intakes. the porting does not look that hard.

Now i just need to get a 3.0 engine.

thanks again
 
HAZZARD said:
Thanks for the help guys finly found what i was looking for. I did find out how the swaps work by searching, but It took many hours at looking through old post here and on the old forum, before i even asked. there was just no clear cut anwsers on how to do it but now I got it after looking more.

looks like I will do the 3.0 long block swap with svt cams, timing and upper and lower intakes. the porting does not look that hard.

Now i just need to get a 3.0 engine.

thanks again
Click to expand...

Good choice! You'll be happy with the results! Now how about your tranny... is everything completely stock!?!? I'm sure you'll be hearing why you should upgrade it from those who learned the hard way. I don't mean to be a bearer of bad news saying that you should probally invest some more money into the project, I just want you to be informed. The stock diff is know to go under hard launches, so be careful if you decide to keep it stock (I have a torsen). Also, the 3rd gear syncro will be a first to go :( . Go to the transaxle threads to search or ask the guys for help! Especially with the added power of the 3L!



Reebs
 
I have a Brand new Duratec v-6 Straight from ford. I bought 2 when i blew my motor up.PM me if your interested..
IF ANYONES INTERESTED PM ME
 
Reebs said:
Good choice! You'll be happy with the results! Now how about your tranny... is everything completely stock!?!? I'm sure you'll be hearing why you should upgrade it from those who learned the hard way. I don't mean to be a bearer of bad news saying that you should probally invest some more money into the project, I just want you to be informed. The stock diff is know to go under hard launches, so be careful if you decide to keep it stock (I have a torsen). Also, the 3rd gear syncro will be a first to go :( . Go to the transaxle threads to search or ask the guys for help! Especially with the added power of the 3L!



Reebs
Click to expand...

Well I will have to learn the hard way too, thats just the way I do things lol.

The trans will just have to wait for more funds to come in, but its next on my list along with the dashboard . I need to sell one or two of my motorcycles before i do the trans. I know the stock diff wont last long with the way I drive, i will just have to take it easy till i can get the work done.Guess that means track days are out of the question till then:laugh: .

fordman im sending you a pm as well
 
HAZZARD said:
Well I will have to learn the hard way too, thats just the way I do things lol.

The trans will just have to wait for more funds to come in, but its next on my list along with the dashboard . I need to sell one or two of my motorcycles before i do the trans. I know the stock diff wont last long with the way I drive, i will just have to take it easy till i can get the work done.Guess that means track days are out of the question till then:laugh: .

fordman im sending you a pm as well
Click to expand...


I understand if you can't afford to do everything at once. How many miles are on the car? The stock diff should hold up awhile if you don't launch hard, but the syncros are another story. Best of luck to you with that one. Also, make sure fordman has the 3l and not the 2.5L. And especially make sure it is not the non svt 2.5! I guess a brand new SVT 2.5 wouldn't be that bad if it is cheap. However, I can't imagine finding a SVT motor even with 100,000 miles cheaper than a 3.0L. I just found my 3.0L with only 4,000 miles for $450. How much cheaper can you really get? And the added performance on top of that!


Just my 2 cents...
 
Reebs said:
Setup #2 - Hybrid 3L with SVT heads and Intake - Basically with this option you will use the 3L block and mate it up to your SVT heads by port matching it so that it will work. Then your SVT intake manifolds will bolt right up to this setup, obviously!
Click to expand...

I am confused why would you have to port match if your using the intake and heads from an SVT... what are you going to port match? I know I sound stupid but for some reason this isnt making sense to me.
 
Static said:
I am confused why would you have to port match if your using the intake and heads from an SVT... what are you going to port match? I know I sound stupid but for some reason this isnt making sense to me.
Click to expand...

No, you don't sound stupid. You just haven't learned yet. That is a good question... you have to port match the block to work the the SVT heads. Search "port match" "3L block" and "svt heads" on the old 3 liter forums and I'm sure you will find abundant information.


Reebs
 
If you decide a 3L is too much work. Let me know. I have a running 2.5 SVT motor that is pretty much going up for sale shortly. I will either part it out, or sell it whole.
 
So are 3.0 duratecs. And more powerfull. Some are even good for boost!

whoodathunk it
 
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