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bleeding

The bleeding process does not require the wheels to be removed, but if you can get enough access to the caliper bleed screws without removing the wheels, I'd be really impressed.
 
ok, I'll just remove them. For the bleeding process... The car doesn't have to be running does it? I just crack the bleeder screw, and have someone pump the brake pedal until solid fluid comes out...correct? I start with the brake caliper farthest from the MC and work my way closer correct? Anything else I should know?
 
I bled the brakes and the pedal is still really soft and unresponsive, but it will still lock up the tires, but I'm not satisfied with its braking. The rear abs cables are cut but I don't think that has anything to do with its performance. What else could be wrong? pads and rotors are good with plenty of life left.
 
If the brakes were working fine before you bled them, and now they are soft and crappy, then you got air in the system. Do it again right.
 
98TredSVT said:
ok, I'll just remove them. For the bleeding process... The car doesn't have to be running does it? I just crack the bleeder screw, and have someone pump the brake pedal until solid fluid comes out...correct? I start with the brake caliper farthest from the MC and work my way closer correct? Anything else I should know?
Click to expand...
You shouldn't crack the bleeders first!!
#1 Fill the brake resevoir
#2 Pump the brakes
#3 Have someone apply pressure to the brakes while you crack them
#4 The peddle will fall to the floor, DO NOT let the peddle rise at all until you have retightened the bleeder
#5 Continue furthest to closest to the MC, I also bleed the clutch if its a manual, follow the same process
Good Luck Rikk
 
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