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Clicking sound when turning

T

TourEnvy

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Oct 23, 2006
Messages
2,725
Location
Las Vegas , NV
Im going to throw this out there....I dont thinks its a biggy and going to try to check it out this weekend but...

when I turn my wheel about half way in turning either way. I hear a soft ticking noise coming from the front (possibly driver side wheel). I narrowed it down to rolling slowly and it clicks respectivly with will speed.

I dont notice it when I straighten the wheels and a faster speed (might still be there with less intervals btween clicks.

Any Ideas? I thought It might be the ABS harness against the tie rod, but I dont know if it would be intermitent with wheel rotation.

TourEnvy
 
TourEnvy said:
...when I turn my wheel about half way in turning either way. I hear a soft ticking noise coming from the front (possibly driver side wheel)...
Click to expand...

Can't be 100% sure, but it sounds like a CV joint issue. If you stop the car and work the steering wheel from side to side (lock to lock is a good idea), do you get any vibration or popping from the floorboard? If you do, that's a good indication that your half shafts are due.
 
could be a CV joint, or in extreme wear situations, a bad wheel bearing.
 
TourEnvy said:
Nope no Vibration or Popping.
Click to expand...

You may be in the early stages of the failure, so that's a bonus. I'd start looking at replacing the half shaft / CV assemblies. If you don't have a straight line noise, I'm inclined to thing you're ok on the bearing front.
 
Clicking? Popping? Hmm.. sounds like my issue (not to hijack) Same situation but mine is more of a creaking sound, like metal is rubbing on metal. I thought it was my bad tie rod, but I replaced that and its still there.
 
Pre98 said:
Clicking? Popping? Hmm.. sounds like my issue (not to hijack) Same situation but mine is more of a creaking sound, like metal is rubbing on metal. I thought it was my bad tie rod, but I replaced that and its still there.
Click to expand...

Lower control arm bushings. Mine are bad and i get the same problem


As for the CV joint, thats what my friend had done to his. mad a popping noise when he drove it
 
my lower control arm on the pass side in the back squeeks only in reverse. Im assuming its beause of the difference in load on the suspension.
 
TourEnvy said:
my lower control arm on the pass side in the back squeeks only in reverse. Im assuming its beause of the difference in load on the suspension.
Click to expand...

Ya mine are so bad that i can just touch the car and it starts to squeak in the back. i need to change those badly and same with the fronts
 
Looks like another project for me then. I no longer waste money taking it to the shop. :help::laugh:
 
in THAT case (you're speaking my language)

a few things to narrow it down:

a failing CJ joint SHOULD make more noise upon hard acceleration, or under turning... multipled when those two are combined. the noise should decrease under constant cruise, or decel (when there is no load placed on the joint)

a failing bearing would make noise at all times, though it would decrease when you take weight off of it (ie, a bad left wheel bearing, you turn right).
Otherwise, turning (other than weight load) shouldn't affect sound.

do the "o'clock" test to determine if it is a bad bearing. search under troubleshooting for the word(s) "oclock", "o'clock" or a combination of those and "test"

if it is a CV joint or a bearing, there are how-tos written in the Duratec Maintenance forum under "read first".
 
Ray said:
in THAT case (you're speaking my language)

a few things to narrow it down:

a failing CJ joint SHOULD make more noise upon hard acceleration, or under turning... multipled when those two are combined. the noise should decrease under constant cruise, or decel (when there is no load placed on the joint)

a failing bearing would make noise at all times, though it would decrease when you take weight off of it (ie, a bad left wheel bearing, you turn right).
Otherwise, turning (other than weight load) shouldn't affect sound.

do the "o'clock" test to determine if it is a bad bearing. search under troubleshooting for the word(s) "oclock", "o'clock" or a combination of those and "test"

if it is a CV joint or a bearing, there are how-tos written in the Duratec Maintenance forum under "read first".
Click to expand...


I think it might be the CV joint, but i cant hear it under accerleration, just rolling with wheel turned. Like LauraSVT said it may be early signs.
 
I get this same noise and I have a brand new drivers side axel. I mainly hear it when going through a drive through where the sound is louder cause of the echo. My drivers side lca and axel are brand new and I have brand new swaybay end links.
 
I have 73K im assume there original.
Question? I would have to replace the whole axle correct? If so that a quite of bit of money to unload for it not to fix my problem, like in ryan's case.

Ps ryan I saw the pics on your fridge. WTF? Super heros? Come on.
 
From the looks of the other thread, you figured it out. :laugh: Well, how much are cv axles i saw them for $100 or so....

NM, I found them for cheaper. It might be worth the replacement, just dont know if have all the tools.
 
Last edited:
Okay, what do I need to do this job? I have limited tools...

No 32mm Socket
No long piece of pipe for breaker extention
No Long screw drivers
No pickle fork
No slide hammer
No CV attachment
No Torx Sockets
No Large faced Hammer
No Penetrating Fluid
No spring compressors :shrug:
No Blocks of Wood


I Do have:
Standard and Metric Sockets 3/8 Drive with numerous extensions
Standard and Metric Sockets 1/3 Drive with extensions
Claw Hammer
1.5 ft breaker bar
Tire Iron that comes with the car.
Jack
Stands
Knowledge
Muscle

Anyone want to give this a shot?

To narrow it down is it 50 or 55 Torx the biggest Torx Socket I need?
 
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