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aussie bar

BAD SVT

Addicted CEG'er
Joined
Dec 19, 2005
Messages
6,520
Location
Formerly Las Vegas, now Dallas TX
so it turns out the guy i bought ma csvt from had an aussie bar installed. i tried looking on tha suspension forum to get help but found little. I've been wondering for a while wot all tha creaking n clanking noises from ma rear were coming from. Heres wot i found. (Pictures attached). Looks like the bar was welded onto the frame. See how off the sway bar is? Is it advisable to reweld that broken link?
The last two pictures show the passenger side bar slightly bent. Is this aussie bar a lost cause?
 

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The sway bar may be re-usable but your subframe IS a lost cause. Whomever did the welding should get a real job or go back to welding school. Obviously, the welding was performed with the sub still in the chassis. The wrong way of doing it....
 
The sway bar may be re-usable but your subframe IS a lost cause. Whomever did the welding should get a real job or go back to welding school. Obviously, the welding was performed with the sub still in the chassis. The wrong way of doing it....

i just did some searching on the old forums. It wuz done by a couple cegers. It wuz one of tha first bars made i believe. Don't get me wrong. ma tour handles like a dream even with that broken frame-sway bar connection. i can make right angle turns @ around 35mph without losing traction. I just don't want something else to break. Unfortunately, stazi doesnt make em anymore. So wot do i do about the subframe?
 
update

update

so i got this fixed finally yesterday at a shop. here's wot they did. someone here said i needed a whole new subframe. the guys at the shop felt otherwise. so here's wot they did. sorry 'bout the pix. took em with ma fone. do u think they did a good job? its ok, lemmie have it ;).

broken links
DSC02932.jpg


DSC02931.jpg


DSC02935.jpg


fixed
DSC02934.jpg


DSC02933.jpg


DSC02936.jpg
 
:shrug: if it works its works. btw,your english spelling skills are seriously lacking:blackeye:

Welcome to CEG. I'm a nuclear medicine graduate. Most know by now that i spell my words that way by choice ;). anywayz, thanx 4 d comment. just wanted to make sure it wuz done rite cuz it came off tha last time. :laugh: dont worry, u'll get used to it :)
 
i've been here awhile..but thanks for the re-welcome;)
i doubt highly that i'll get used to..in fact i may make it a point to call it out in every thread:laugh:
 
The repair looks fine. I'd do that before a subframe replacement.
You might want to spray some paint on it so they don't rust away. Not much road salt in your area but it still wouldn't hurt.
 
Nice Job Bro, I just went ahead and bought myself the subframe from BAT! Clunking gone ever since I did it myself on the street(Real Easy to do)! Then I found out Bradness was the man for all SUSPENSION(too late now)!

But Now i dont have to worry about that crap again cause I have the BAT SUBFRAME w/ the BAT SWAY BAR(like in my SIG)

- amyn
 
Welcome to CEG. I'm a nuclear medicine graduate. Most know by now that i spell my words that way by choice ;).
Ignorance and laziness with communication are not a personal “style.” Everyone you deal with, personally or especially professionally, sees it for what it really is. It will mark you throughout your life and limit your opportunities.
 
It's difficult to see what your "shop" did exactly when it comes to their welding repairs. From what I can see, that repair won't last long term. At least not if you like to push your car hard. The weld is only on 1 end of the plate and bigger bars put big/bigger force(s) on the subframe. The weld needs to go ALL THE WAY AROUND THE PERIPHERY of the bracket plate-wherever the plate touches the subframe, weld material should be added. Now when you're doing this job with the subframe in the car and all the suspension parts attached, it's simply not possible. THE ONLY WAY TO GET GOOD RESULTS WITH THIS REPAIR IS TO REMOVE THE SUBFRAME. I have personally done dozens of subframe repairs with no "comebacks" even on track driven cars.

Also, welding upwards is a sure way to get a lousy weld. Gravity tends to do that.
 
It's difficult to see what your "shop" did exactly when it comes to their welding repairs. From what I can see, that repair won't last long term. At least not if you like to push your car hard. The weld is only on 1 end of the plate and bigger bars put big/bigger force(s) on the subframe. The weld needs to go ALL THE WAY AROUND THE PERIPHERY of the bracket plate-wherever the plate touches the subframe, weld material should be added. Now when you're doing this job with the subframe in the car and all the suspension parts attached, it's simply not possible. THE ONLY WAY TO GET GOOD RESULTS WITH THIS REPAIR IS TO REMOVE THE SUBFRAME. I have personally done dozens of subframe repairs with no "comebacks" even on track driven cars.

Also, welding upwards is a sure way to get a lousy weld. Gravity tends to do that.

thanks. i'll go yell at those guys now :)
 
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