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engine blown???

The timing is off. Get the cam alignment tool and crank pin. You can get them for about $25. Need to have them so you can make sure you are at TDC and the cams are aligned. Make sure the cam sprockets are loose when you set the tension. Replace the idlers and tensioner if they weren't replaced.
 
The timing is off. Get the cam alignment tool and crank pin. You can get them for about $25. Need to have them so you can make sure you are at TDC and the cams are aligned. Make sure the cam sprockets are loose when you set the tension. Replace the idlers and tensioner if they weren't replaced.

You don't need the cam alignment tool! al;skdjfl;kndf Just get a sturdy piece of metal and take some metal brackets that you probably have lying around your work area and shove them in. Just make sure it's tight. The cam alignment tool is such a waste. It was definitely not need to keep mine in place...
 
Thats why he is in the position he is in, half ass mechanics. The kit is well worth the money to make sure your are exact. The crank pin will make sure you are exactly at TDC.
 
ill vouch for the peice of metal between the cams rather then the cam locking tool, used a peice of metal many times, never one problem. Just make sure you dont bump it.

i'd say its more of mechanics not knowing (or trying to screw him) out of a motor. THe one pre 98 contour I bought (for 400 bucks) had a new motor in it because the previous owner beleive the mechanic when he told him the motor was shot. And some just don't know anything about these motors and shouldn't even touch them.
 
its not WAY off. the exhaust just closed and the intake is about to open. i think its probably a tooth or two off. it looks like the intake cam needs to come back a tooth.
 
I'm glad that at least someone knows what they are talking about. were abouts can i get a timing alignment tool? i dont have any scrap lying around and i wont to make sure its exactly right. would an auto parts store sell these? when you say it needs to come back a tooth which way are you referring too. clockwise or counterclock wise. thanks again guys
 
it looks like the intake cam needs to be turned counterclockwise (towards the firewall) one maybe 2 teeth.

you can get them on ebay or you can go here. call them up and ask for Karl. He will get it shipped out to you very quickly.

if you have any questions on how to do the timing belt just ask. ive done it several times on the pre98.
 
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You can get the kit here. http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Cam-Alignment-Kit-2.0L-Zetec-engine.html

Get it to TDC using the crank pin that comes in the kit. You will know you are exact. Loosen the cam sprockets, they are not keyed and will spin freely when loose. Slide the cam alignment tool in. You may have to turn cams a little if they are not lined up. Set the tensioner and tighten the cam sprockets back up and remove the cam tool and crank pin and you should be good to go. You can leave the cam sprockets tight if you decide to but make sure there is no slack between the sprockets when you put the belt on. I would bet money that is why your timing is off now.
 
You don't need the cam alignment tool! al;skdjfl;kndf Just get a sturdy piece of metal and take some metal brackets that you probably have lying around your work area and shove them in. Just make sure it's tight. The cam alignment tool is such a waste. It was definitely not need to keep mine in place...


actually you don't need anything at all. the exhaust cam will move maybe half a tooth if you have the engine at TDC .... 87k on the timing belt without using crank pins or cam alignment tools ...
 
plus how are you supposed to turn the cams with the cam bolts loose:confused:


just put the timing pin in (there is a 10mm, i think, bolt in the front side of the block at cylinder #4. remove it and put the oin in there) using an 18mm socket and ratchet turn the engine clockwise slowly until it stops against the pin. now go loosen the bolt on the tensioner and remove the belt from the cam gears. turn the cam gears until you can slide the bar that comes with the kit into the slots on the back of the cams. mine litterally just barely clears ( i dont think i have but .002" clearance on either cam). it may take some finageling to get the tool in but it does fit. then take the belt and work counterclockwise. once you have it around the cams and other pullies hold tension on it with the tensioner as you tighten its bolt down. remove the bar and the pin and put the bolt back in the block. put everything back together, prime the oil pump (cause its been sitting for a while) and then start the car.
 
If you are sure you have all the slack out of it between the cam sprockets then don't loosen them. There are a ton of threads on here where people don't get the tension set right and their belt starts to walk and they end up replacing it in a few thousand miles. When you loosen the cam sprockets, when you set the tension, it gets all the slack out all the way around evenly. If they are tight when you set the tensioner and you have slack between the cam sprockets, it will always be there. My zetec has a slot on the cams for a wrench to turn it.
 
what year is your zetec. my 97 did not have slots for a wrench. also i have never heard or seen a pre98 zetec have problems with the timing belt walking. its always been 98+ models that have the VCT. also, IIRC, you MUST loosen the cam gears when doing one with VCT.
 
ok,got the car all timed up last night. it was a good bit off. i ended up just using a framing square and a few pieces of metal that i had lying around. why does ford put such small timing marks on the crank pulley. and the location of the marks was different then picture in the haynes manual and the ford service manual. i lined it all up with the second notch, rotated it a few times and check again for timing it was dead on. as i rotated the engine i could feel the compression in the wrench. when i cranked it over it seem like it wanted to go, but nothing. the mechanic that had it before had all of the cyclinder full of ether. on thing i did notice was that when i cranked the car coolant would leak out of the return line to the resevior, that seems strange since the belt was off the water pump. i m going to try some new plugs and let it dry out for a day or to and see if that will help
 
out of curiosity how far off was it? which direction did you have to turn the cam(s) and how many teeth.

do a compression test again and see what you get now.
 
I would say about two to three teeth, it almost like they timed it using the first notch. i going to do a compression test this weekend and see what i got. i feel better now that i know the job was done right.
 
i never used the crank marks to find TDC. i always stuck a screw driver in cyl 1 and turns the crnak till it didnt raise anymore.. probably not the best way but i've done it to 4 zetecs so far and it's always worked perfect.
 
i didnt trust them to much either, i think i will check it with a screw driver just to make sure.
 
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