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Another newbie spark plug question...

M

m4gician

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Jun 5, 2006
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Okay when trying to attempt this, I removed the IRMC cover and found the location of 3 of the plugs in the front (kinda hard to get at but doable).

I went around to the left and found one behind the engine which is really hard to get at.

Where and how hard are the other two to get at? Because I couldn't visually find them. Anyone have a picture of all 6? I guess they'd be symmetrically opposite from the ones up front but what do you guys think?
 
Try this:

http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=18

Also, if you go to the top of this forum where it says "Duratec Maintenance, Read First" and go through the list you will find two more links about changing spark plugs.

The quick answer to your question is that it may help to remove the coil pack. You need a 7mm socket, preferrably a wobble socket. Pay attention to the ground wire and radio noise supression condensor that is attached to two of the four bolts. On reassembly, it won't hurt if you only use two of them.

Have fun.
 
the coil pack is what exactly? I tried looking at pictures to find out, but with no luck. Im going to have this done sunday so I'd really want to know.
 
follow the wires of the front three that you found around to the passenger side, and then to the back.. it will go to the "coil pack" where the three wires will plug in, along with another three wires (the back three spark plugs).

That box where all six are plugged in is the coil pack. Remove that by removing the four bolts in the four corners, and then you can reach the back three plugs (which are symetrical to the front three..)

ONLY REMOVE ONE SPARK PLUG BOOT AT A TIME; This will help you to avoid confusion when replacing them all, and getting the firing order incorrect, etc.
 
ya I was kinda figuring that thing was in the way I didn't know however the technical term for that. I won't have to disconnect it electrically will I? Just unbolt it so I can get at the Spark Plugs? Thanks again guys.
 
You can leave the plugs on the top of it, just move it out of the way. You'll have to unclip the three front spark plugs so that you have enough slack to actually move the coilpack around.
 
alrighty, and I guess same goes for the ones in the front where the IMRC is I could just remove that right as well to get to the middle plug?
 
Yes that is correct. Just unbolt the four bolts that hold the IMRC on. An easy way to keep track of the firing order is to number the plug wires one at a time. This will help you keep track of where they go on the coil-pack.
 
Pale Horse said:
Yes that is correct. Just unbolt the four bolts that hold the IMRC on. An easy way to keep track of the firing order is to number the plug wires one at a time. This will help you keep track of where they go on the coil-pack.
Click to expand...

Any recommendations on which plug to start with first that ensures I won't screw up with the firing order?
 
m4gician said:
Any recommendations on which plug to start with first that ensures I won't screw up with the firing order?
Click to expand...

Just do as Ray said and replace 1 at a time. You can't really go wrong if you just make sure that each one goes back to the same spot as before. I think Tony posted somewhere last month the coil pack and cylinder sequence if you somehow get them screwed up.

Just remember where you took each wire from.
 
It is real easy to cross #1 and #3.

I would suggest you make a chart before you take anything apart. Mark what spark plug wire goes to which spot on the coil pack. The engine sequence is right (passenger side) rear #1, middle rear #2, left (driver side) #3, right front #4, middle front #5, and left front #6.

Some have been able to change the plugs without removing the coil pack, but it doesn't work for me. I have tried to move the coil onto the intake manifold (toward the center) without disconnecting any wire, but in the end I found it easier to disconnet the low voltage connector as well as the rear three plug wires. The coil actually has the numbers on it, but they are hard to see once the coil is back in place. Write down the coil wire positions before you disconnect them. You will still probably cross #1 and #3.

When you remove the bolts that hold the coil in place, it is easier if you have a 7mm wobble socket. There is a ground strap attached under one and the radio noise supression coil under another. Make sure they get remounted when things go back together. As long as you tighten them properly, you can get by with only two of the four bolts when you remount the coil.
 
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