• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Performance/Maintenance...

K

KerryKool

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Sep 29, 2004
Messages
2,005
Location
Tampa, FL
The last oil change I had, my mechanic told me that my serpentine belt was showing its wear and needs to be replaced sooner or later.

So I did a little research and found that I can replace it myself w/o much of a problem. But what type of problems/trouble will I have?

Now for the performance. Being that nearly all accessory pullies run on the serpentine belt, why not put a lighter one on there. At zxtuner.com, they have 4 different pullies: Pulley - Altenator Overdrive - ZXtuner; Pulley - Ultra Underdrive - ZXtuner; Pulley - Underdrive - Esslinger; and Pulley - Underdrive - MAC Performance.

Now all of those need shorter belts, which is something I don't want to bother with. Where would I find pullies that fit stock specs? And which one is a good idea to use and which is a bad idea to use?

Thanks for the knowledge! -KJ
 
The only problem that I ran into when first doing my serp belt was that I needed an offset wrench. A regular wrench can't get the right angle because the nut is set into the belt tensioner.

Craftsman 5 pc. Wrench Set, Deep Offset Box End Metric

(These wrenches are also handy for loosening the top strut nut when doing suspension work.)

As for pullies... I don't think I've ever seen a lightened crank pulley that is still stock diameter. They are all underdrive. If you don't want your headlights to dim with a crank underdrive pulley, you should also get the alternator overdrive pulley. I've got the ZXtuner underdrive crank pulley and the overdrive alternator pulley. Both are very nice pieces.

Experimenting with different belt lengths isn't that much of a pain either. You just buy the next 3 sizes down when getting an underdrive pulley. For instance, a '96 Zetec Contour with AC normally uses a 4060735 belt. That means that it is 73.5" long. When you go to the parts store, get a 4060730, 4060725, and a 4060720. Just return the ones that were too long/short.

HTH,
BP
 
Last edited:
I had a feeling that the overdrive pulley is needed in this type a situation. The Esslinger pulley is back ordered, so will that MAC performance one work in the same way?

Thanks for the help, you pretty much answered all I needed to know for this.

-KJ
 
yes the MAC underdrive pulley will work just fine. also didnt you get HID's? if so you should not have a problem with the flickering headlights (i never had a problem with just the UDP and no alternator ODP even on stock lights)

the zetec has a 160 amp alternator so it should not be a problem.
 
Yes, HIDs were installed. But would it be to my advantage to get the ODP, being that I have subs and all?

Is there anything else that I may need to know about taking the pulley(ies) off?

-KJ
 
another problem that may arise when you change the belt is that the tensioner may had gone stiff and so wont retension the new belt enough. i had this problem when i fitted the JRSC and had to buy a new tensioner
 
do you have a capaciter wired into your sound system? if so then you will probably be fine without the ODP. if you dont then i would get one or the other.

as far as the tensior goes i never once had a problem with mine through 240K miles and 10 years.
 
No cap in my car. My system has a 250-300 watt range, so I don't exactly need a cap, though I could use one. I think the ODP is cheaper anyway.
 
I'd get the ODP if you have a car stereo. Even with it, you still end up spinning the alt about 10% slower than stock. A cap will help with dips in power but it too will get drained at long stoplight, or if you've got it really cranked up.

I also wouldn't go any smaller than the 100mm MAC pulley. The ZXtuner pulley used to be 100mm too (that's the one that I've got).

The tensioners can also get "stuck" in one position when they get old and rusty/corroded. They still move but don't provide the proper tension. It's like the spring inside gets bound up. I had to whack my roomate's '95 Taurus tensioner with a sledgehammer to get it moving. :shocked:

BP
 
Ok, after reading several posts from the old forum, I'm getting nervous about the install. More or less getting the new pullies to fit and put on.

I ordered the pullies yesturday, so they should be in this week.

I'm reading that you have to lock the crankshaft to prevent it from moving or use an impact wench, which I do not own. Also the ODP for the alt seems pretty hard from the material I read.

Is there a How-to for all this somewhere? I found a nice S. Belt removal and install how-to, but nothing for removing the pullies. (Pics are a plus.)

Does anyone know the exact size belt I'll need for the UDP and ODP with A/C? And whats this I hear about the Goodyear belt sounding like a supercharger whine? That would be sweet!

This should be all the questions I need, hopefully. Thanks again! -KJ
 
Last edited:
On my MTX I had to have a friend sit in the car and press that brake pedal while I used the biggest breaker bar I could find and an impact socket (I cracked the regular walmart brand socket) to get the crank pulley off. I don't know if the ATX will lock your pulley in place while its in "park" though. I have no advice on the alt pulley, sorry.
 
Alright tommorrow the pulley should be going on. RandyCSVT has an electric impact wrench which should do the job. But will I have to lock the crank? What could happen if we don't? And do I need a Harmonic balancer removal tool to take the pulley off? I don't believe so, but the Haines book mentions it.

I appreciate all the help guys, -Kerry
 
I just put mine in park and used my 1/2" impact wrench to zip the bolt off. It came right off.

You shouldn't need a gear puller to get the pulley off. I just tapped mine around the outer edges with a hammer and wiggled it off.

I did have to sand the powdercoat off of the inside of my 4" ZXtuner UDP. There was no way that it was going on without removing that extra thickness.

HTH,
BP
 
Good to know. I forgot to mention the eletric impact we tried to use was worthless. It said it was good up to 96 ft/lb but we tested it and it was only 70ft/lb at best.

We took it back and the UDP is sitting on my desk itching to be used. I found out a friend has an air impact wrench, so this weekend I'm going to check it out and see if it will work.

One final thing. I'm pretty certain I need a 720 belt size. But is there a preferred brand?
 
I've been happy with both Dayco Polycog and Goodyear Gatorback. Plus, the Gatorback makes a kind of gear/supercharger whine kind of sound. I've got quite a collection of belts but I can't remember the exact size that you will need. I'd have to run over to my 'rents and check out my wrecked ATX.


KerryKool said:
Good to know. I forgot to mention the eletric impact we tried to use was worthless. It said it was good up to 96 ft/lb but we tested it and it was only 70ft/lb at best.

We took it back and the UDP is sitting on my desk itching to be used. I found out a friend has an air impact wrench, so this weekend I'm going to check it out and see if it will work.

One final thing. I'm pretty certain I need a 720 belt size. But is there a preferred brand?
Click to expand...
 
I did mine today... You will need a pretty good compressor for the impact wrench to have enough power...I put a gatorback on mine and it does have a light whining sound, it sounds cool.... I put on a 725 size but alls i did was the udp... I love the difference it makes :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top