modded oilpan=no more starvation worries

[Bradness]

For those who are interested in oiling for the 2.5, here's a bit of info. I bought a 3.0 pan to see exactly what was so great about them compared to the 2.5. When I got it, I was underwhelmed. So I took my 2.5 pan and figured out how to make it better.

I made 3 baffles and had them TIG'd in place. 1 is a slosh baffle to keep the oil at the pickup during hard RH corners and the other 2 are drainback baffles. Had to modify the lower pan baffle to fit. I've combined that with a remote high capacity filter. Unlikely I will ever have oiling problems and the pan will fit my 3.0 when I get around to it.

Anyone looking for a 3.0 pan used for 1 oil change?

 

[JScullin]

I've always filled my car with a full 6qts of oil and have never experienced so much as a light come on during hard cornering. And I'm no stranger to a sharp turn.

The manual calls for 5.5qts but I have never had a problem w/using an extra 1/2.

 

[Ray]

The manual calls for 5.8qts, and a half quart over that would be fine, too.. 6.5qts is actually quite normal around these parts.. (ceg)

PS... if you see a light come on.. you're already too late.. The light is the LAST step in the damage.. not the first sign.

 

[Bradness]

PS... if you see a light come on.. you're already too late.. The light is the LAST step in the damage.. not the first sign.

Ray: I beg to differ on this point. I saw the light come on under the usual circumstances (270 degree RH sweeper on ramp) and never experienced total failure. I found out that oil level was low due to a leak. Later when the head gasket started leaking like a sieve, I pulled the motor and tore it down. There was no crank bearing (mains or rods) damage visible. Now I was not pulling near red line revs at the time...

Maybe Ford had a reason that they added an additional drainback in each head on both the 3.0 and the later 2.5's.

 

[CSVT#49]

The manual calls for 5.8qts, and a half quart over that would be fine, too.. 6.5qts is actually quite normal around these parts.. (ceg)

PS... if you see a light come on.. you're already too late.. The light is the LAST step in the damage.. not the first sign.

Yes I question this too. I've never looked into the light arrangement on my Contour, but on my SHO there was a oil level warning light and oil pressure warning idiot lights. The level sensor was located such that if the oil was that low no damage was possible, but if there was a leak and left unfixed you would eventually reach a point where problems could arrise. Same with the pressure sender, it's triggered at a much higher pressure were problems wouldn't arise, but is an indicator that something is wrong.

This is much like the machines I work with now. The temperature warning lights come on at 115degC, while failure would not occur until a temp of 130degC is reached.

 

[warmonger]

Brad,

Don't you worry that the baffle might work both ways? I mean don't you worry that if you DO get a bunch of oil on the opposite side it won't flow to the pickup fast enough? I suppose you can still resist the slosh of oil by slotting your baffle and have the same intent.

 

[catfish]

The manual calls for 5.8qts, and a half quart over that would be fine, too.. 6.5qts is actually quite normal around these parts.. (ceg)

PS... if you see a light come on.. you're already too late.. The light is the LAST step in the damage.. not the first sign.

I've seen the oil light a dozen times but my car is still running (it burns oil like a mofo and I wasn't keeping up with it.)

Not of course that I advise driving w/ the oil light on, just that its not necessarily the end of the world. There was only about 3 quarts worth in there when i finally changed it out. But that said, the light only came on in hard corners w/ 3 quarts, so its definitely not the first sign of trouble but not the last either.

 

[TourDeForce]

(* note to self: Do NOT buy a car from catfish... *)

 

[catfish]

heh, I wouldn't blame you, though I can at least say i've only owned the car for a relatively short time, so most of its troubles aren't my fault. (Not that I'm doing much to make them better...)

In anycase it only needs to last me till college in ~3 months, after that its either going to be parted out or run into the ground. Probably the latter as most of the body panels have damage of some kind, scraping/paint, and hood/both bumpers are shot. (Thats somewhat my fault, but 90% of it came w/ the car)