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Out of ideas.

G

getsum111

Yes I am a Pirate, 200 years too late.
Joined
Apr 5, 2005
Messages
4,188
Location
Pillaging in Freedom, PA.
I guess I give up. Tried the new PCM, nothing. Tried new injectors, nothing. I still have the bucking between 2000 - 3500 rpm's. I'm not even sure who to take it too, as Ford didn't diagnose it right the first two times, and now I have 2 gutted precats, no MIL eliminators yet, and my main may be clogged as well. I'm afraid they will just telll me they don't know what it is. Maybe try the fuel pump again? I just don't know how I can test it under load. I hate cars.
 
What the hell did you do? lol

Have you rev'ed the car in idle? Does it still buck then? Usually "bucking" is used in reference to the trans.

I'm assuming you checked spark and all the plugs? And battery/alternator.

And fuel pressure?

Maybe something to due with the DPFE sensor. I would imagine that things kicks in once you get into 3k to recirculate the unburnt fuel.

Anything goofy with your secondaries? (Pinned open)

And don't you have a CEL? My cel comes on anything the car makes any goofy act. I would imagine "bucking" would set it off.

How many miles? I don't think anything mechancial is broke if It doesn't start until 2-3.5k, but who knows. :shrug:

Does it not buck after 3.5k?

Just another thought off the top of my head, the range you described is when you get the most "rasp" out of the exhaust. I'm not sure why it happens in these rpms, but it does. Now relating that to your motor, you don't have a exhaust leak in the headers? I.E. Major loss of back pressure until you peak the point where it still generates enough in the tube after 3.5k rpm.

Thats just a butt load of thoughts from me. I don't know if any will help.
 
Things I've done:
spark plugs, wires, coil, UIM/LIM cleaned (off car), new fuel filter, test fuel pressure, new PCM, new injectors, gutted precats, new CKP sensor, tested CPS, TPS. The exhaust is not connected right now, so a leak shouldn't come into play. And I'm outside Pittsburgh, kinda far. But thanks anyway.
 
i am still kinda stuck to the fuel pump. i am telling you that is what my gurls tour did. then it started to do it only under a 1/2 tank of gas. soon as i replaced that it stopd. and you know how quick me and my girl both said fuel pump scott.
 
i had a similar problem with my tour back in the day,does it smooth out after the 3k mark? it ended up being i needed new o2 sensors.
 
pimpdcontour said:
i am still kinda stuck to the fuel pump. i am telling you that is what my gurls tour did. then it started to do it only under a 1/2 tank of gas. soon as i replaced that it stopd. and you know how quick me and my girl both said fuel pump scott.
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I know, I know. In fact, I still hear you both saying it each time it acts up. I did test the fuelpressure, and it read ok. I'm thinking now that it is ok @ idle, but not under load. I just need a way to confirm that. :shrug: I'm gonna pull the pump out tonight and check it out. Otherwise, I just don't know.
 
This might be a silly question, but how much gas do you have in your tank? When my fuel pump started to go, it was really noticeable when I was a quarter tank or below...
 
did you put the fuel filter in the right way? :laugh:

I dunno what to tell you. Could be alot of things. Maybe one of the sensors doesn't function as it climbs in rpm.
 
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maybe a dirty sock filter on the fuel pump. and the only way to get to the is pull the pump.. gotta love ford's right.. not to hi-jack but.. so today i go to put on new roters so when this snow STOPS i can put my rims on.. anyway i had to CUT the rotors off with a cut off wheel. they where STUCK froze what ever you wanna say!!!!!!! the passenger side on i hit with a hammer to try and break loose and the outside part where the pad hits just broke off the hub.!!!!!!!!!!!!!! let me tell you 3 hours to change just the front rotors not fun. every time i seem to do something to this car i gotta get out the cut off wheel. tell you what the brakes stop work like a champ now!!! no more shaking wheel when i brake!!!!!
 
pimpdcontour said:
maybe a dirty sock filter on the fuel pump. and the only way to get to the is pull the pump.. gotta love ford's right.. not to hi-jack but.. so today i go to put on new roters so when this snow STOPS i can put my rims on.. anyway i had to CUT the rotors off with a cut off wheel. they where STUCK froze what ever you wanna say!!!!!!! the passenger side on i hit with a hammer to try and break loose and the outside part where the pad hits just broke off the hub.!!!!!!!!!!!!!! let me tell you 3 hours to change just the front rotors not fun. every time i seem to do something to this car i gotta get out the cut off wheel. tell you what the brakes stop work like a champ now!!! no more shaking wheel when i brake!!!!!
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don't buy the cheap $20 rotors made over seas and they will never rust on ... buy the $60 or so american made rotors ...
 
Now that the thread has lost track...

..how about :idea:








:looks left and right:
















ANTI-SEIZE! There is a reason it exists. :laugh:



Any luck fixing the bucking problem? If you figured it out, let us know! I really wonder why.
 
pimpdcontour said:
oh that hurts... oh wait they where FORD rotors!!!! not cheapo ones so there.. :) lol
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well I have an answer for that one also ... they are still cheap rotors ... when we took off what we believe where the original front rotors from my mothers 99 they where rusted on so bad that the rotor puller took chunks out of the rotor .... hell I even learned from my local parts store that most garages use the premium pads and the cheapy rotors so they just change the rotors every time ...
 
BrApple said:
well I have an answer for that one also ... they are still cheap rotors ... when we took off what we believe where the original front rotors from my mothers 99 they where rusted on so bad that the rotor puller took chunks out of the rotor .... hell I even learned from my local parts store that most garages use the premium pads and the cheapy rotors so they just change the rotors every time ...
Click to expand...


ok not sure what to say there. but i do know these where oem rotors.
 
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