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Emmissions Issues and CEL that won't go out

C

chrisjohnson72

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
49
Location
Plano, TX
I have a 98 Contour SE V6 with 196K. Went to get it inspected and it didn't pass the emissions test. Went to Autozone had fault codes showing bad EGR valve and O2 Sensor. Changed the EGR valve and the Bank 1 O2 Sensor. Wow that one is difficult! Anyway, CEL still on. So I changed the DPFE/EGR Sensor. CEL Still On!!! Cleaned the Throttle Body and replaced the PCV valve! CEL Still On!! I have contacted the dealer and other garages and they all say, "Well, it is hard to say without looking at it."

I have seen where people have "cleaned the passages". How do you do that? What tools are used and what type of cleaners are used. HELP!!!!! I am driving without an updated inspection sticker and need guidance fast.

Chris
Plano, TX
 
first off what where the exact codes that where pulled? also was the pcm reset after the parts where replaced?
 
To reset the codes either: take it to autozone and have them clear the codes with their scanner, or leave the negative terminal off the battery for a few hours, or pull the proper fuses from the engine bay (i think its #2 and #9 and #11 but don't quote me). you could also search the forums. to clean the passages, take off the throttle body from the upper intake manifold. (this requires also taking off the throttle cable bracket) on the UIM where the throttle body gasket sits, there is a small channel for air to flow. use soft scraping tools (toothpicks, plastic bristle brush, etc.) and Throttle body cleaner and get out the gunk. You have to let the engine cycle through after clearing the codes (not sure how long this takes) or else when you go to the emissions test, they will fail you because you are seemingly trying to fool the system by clearing your codes right before the test.
 
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Hester23 said:
To reset the codes either: take it to autozone and have them clear the codes with their scanner, or leave the negative terminal off the battery for a few hours, or pull the proper fuses from the engine bay (i think its #2 and #9 and #11 but don't quote me).
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Fuses in the box under the hood are #4 and #11. Sorry, I had to quote you.

I didn't find a P1040 code. You might want to confirm the code you got.
A P0140 is Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor circuit Faulty - Bank No. 1.
or if you got dyslexic
A P0401 is Insufficient EGR Flow. - most likely the DPFE sensor, but I see you've changed that already.

When you clean the TB, you've gotta take if off the UIM, just remove the 4 bolts around the TB and behind the TB will be the gasket. Pull the gasket off the UIM and you'll see the passages all gunked up with oily carbon & whatnot. Clean them up as best you can. A new TB gasket is in order if you didn't get one the first time.
 
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By clearing the codes, will it show the sensors as being immediately ready at the emmissions test, or will I have to drive it for 75+miles to cycle through?

Also in cleaning just on the other side of the throttle body will do it?
 
chrisjohnson72 said:
By clearing the codes, will it show the sensors as being immediately ready at the emmissions test, or will I have to drive it for 75+miles to cycle through?

Also in cleaning just on the other side of the throttle body will do it?
Click to expand...

Yes, you have to drive it before you can take it in, or else the emissions test will see that you have recently reset the computer.

more than likely, you have already fixed the problem by changing the egr. clear the codes and then see if you even need to clear the passage. if you do take off the throttle body and look at the passage, you will see what needs to be cleaned.
 
Hester23, thanks for trying to help earlier, but if you don't have the answer, please do not post incorrect information. It would be better if you offer a suggestion to search for certain keywords, like the CEL code, 'pcm reset', 'computer reset' and let people explore the site on their own, and find the correct answer.
 
One last thing, if you just made a typo on the code, a P1400 is low voltage on the DPFE sensor. Make sure you plugged it in firmly & the wires are not pinched or grounded or sup'm...
 
Tour deForce, for my own info, besides the proper fuses to pull, what incorrect info did i give?
 
Prior to working on it, I disconnect the neg terminal on the battery, then I do the work, hook everything back up and the CEL is off until I hit approx. 10 miles, then it comes back on. What is even more frustrating, after replacing the DFPE and the o2 sensor and EGR valve, I took it back in for inspection and was told by the tech, well you passed, but since your CEL is on, I can't pass you. He said if you can get that light off, I can pass you, so in frustration I took the CEL light out and took it back and I did even better on the test but failed a 3rd time because they told me that it was still reading a fault code of 0401 and the CEL was supposed to be on.

So it is definately a 0401 code:mad:
 
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Never bring the car in for an inspection with the CEL on - that's INSTANT failure.

I've cleared the codes (both via scanner and via the fuse-box) on my own Contour SE and have found that all the 'readiness monitors' have been 'set' within 20 minutes of normal (city) driving. I sincerely doubt that it'll take 75 miles.

On the day/morning that you're scheduled to take it in for it's RE-inspection --- and assuming there's no CEL -- take it to Autozone to make sure that all the readiness monitors are set -- otherwise the inspection station will tell you to 'go away and drive it some more'.

Also, if you're 'not up to' cleaning out the UIM -- then I strongly suggest some 'liquid mechanic' work -- as an interim step that will clear this inspection hurdle so to speak.
i.e. get a can or two of Seafoam or Berryman's B12 or BG44K and slowly introduce the liquid into the intake manifold via the top vacuum lines. Use a plastic straw and let the engine 'sip' the liquid as it's running (in your driveway and idling and at normal temp.)

To pop off either of the two vac-lines just 'squeeze' the top and then pull it up and out.


Gerry
 
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Gerry_M said:
Never bring the car in for an inspection with the CEL on - that's INSTANT failure.

I've cleared the codes (both via scanner and via the fuse-box) on my own Contour SE and have found that all the 'readiness monitors' have been 'set' within 20 minutes of normal (city) driving. I sincerely doubt that it'll take 75 miles.

On the day/morning that you're scheduled to take it in for it's RE-inspection --- and assuming there's no CEL -- take it to Autozone to make sure that all the readiness monitors are set -- otherwise the inspection station will tell you to 'go away and drive it some more'.

Gerry
Click to expand...


drive cycle depends on alot of things like the temp and how the car is driven, this time of year not all the monitors might run since it is to cold ...

also I doubt autozone will be able to tell if the monitors ahve run, their scanned just read codes ... you need a better scanner then that to see if the monitors have run ....
 
have you ever thought that the problem isnt the o2 and the egr , and the dpfe. maybe its connections , or the ecm , maybe you have a vaccum leak causing the llight to come on, i love how people pull the codes, and whatever it says they replace a part , thats not always the problem, why dont you get a flow chart and start there. you also only have to unplug the battery for 5 mins, that allows all the capacitors to discharge. if you would also get a NGS scanner , it might be able to tell you more and you can do a koeo test and a koer test that will check all the sensors and actuators. you could also think about looking at what the cars doing on the live data . that will tell you alot.
 
Wow.....

Only Fuse F11 is needed to reset the KAM. F4 can be left alone as it does nothing for the KAM.

Injecting a cleaning solution into ANY of the vacuum ports cannot clean the EGR passages in the throttle body. Unless you have a way of getting the fluid into the EGR ports, it cannot have any effect on EGR system performance.

Certain OBDII monitors require an ambient temp of at least 50F before the test will run. Last winter, my 98 took three weeks of daily 80+ mile round trips to finally run all the monitors.

Depending on your individual state and location, an emissions test pass may still be issued with one monitor unrun, sometimes it's two. Check your local regulations.

Removing the CEL bulb cannot work as the inspectors are required to verify it works during bulb proveout.....

Do the "suck test". It will tell you in just a moment if the EGR ports are, in fact, clogged so you can get on with properly repairing your car and avoid all this frustration and drama on this very-common problem.

Steve
 
projectSHO89 said:
Wow.....

Only Fuse F11 is needed to reset the KAM. F4 can be left alone as it does nothing for the KAM.
.......
Click to expand...
This is not necessarilly correct. Stay tuned, details at 11. I will post a long explanation later. Have to go do something important.
 
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Tony2005 said:
This is not necessarilly correct. Stay tuned, details at 11. I will post a long explanation later. Have to go do something important.
Click to expand...

It is correct. As long as the ignition switch is kept in the OFF position and there are no other wiring or electrical faults, pulling F11 is all that is needed. See the schematic for the power distribution for both F4 and F11 in the applicable EVTM.
 
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