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Ataris

Be Gentle I'm New Here
Joined
Aug 13, 2005
Messages
3
Howdy !

Recently I've run into a few issues that I'm trying to scrap the money together to try and fix. Here's a quick history :

This is a 98 SE with 2.5L V6 and a standard transmission. Initially, and since I bought the car, I've had the CEL on which was giving an O2 sensor error code. I replaced both sensors twice but the code does not go away. Also, for a long time, the engine did not seem to like to settle at the proper idle speed. Instead, it would drop to about 500RPM and shudder, and then pick back up to 900-1000RPM where it's supposed to sit. On occasion, it would stall instead of picking back up. Sometimes this wouldn't happen for a few weeks at a time.

Now, I'm getting the following symptoms :

1) When cold, the engine will stall after struggling to idle for a few seconds.
2) Will have a bit more of a struggle at lower RPM to accelerate than usual
3) When warm, the car runs fine.
4) When the RPMs drop under normal idle speed, the cabin lights and headlights will go dim, and my heater/blower will cut to half speed.
5) When cold, I will have to keep my foot on the gas at all times to keep the car from stalling.
6) A few times it's been very difficult to start. It's sounded like it's going to start and the engine is turning over, but if I release the ignition it will stall out. In order to start it, I have to feather the gas and then keep my foot on the gas to keep from stalling
7) This happened all of a sudden, and was not gradual
8) The airbag light came on today when I went out for lunch, and gave the error code 4-2 for "LH Primary Crash sensor feed/return circuit open"

I assume #8 is entirely seperate, but insight on that would be great as well.


**note**I'm well educated in the theory, but have limited experience with repairs. Armed with the manual and the right tools, I can replace most anything as long as it doesn't recquire a major teardown. My budget for this is about $800 Canadian and I hope to include an oil and tranny fluid change in there too =).

I really appreciate the insight and help from you guys you've given in the past, I'd be lost without !
 
Check your IAC (idle air control valve), what is your CEL code? You have 4 O2 sensors on that vehicle two upstream and two down stream.
 
I'd take a look at the IAC. I had this problem just recently and it turned out to be the IAC getting wet from the car wash.
 
Hmm, is there any way I can check my IAC ? I've been meaning to replace the battery for a bit, which is a good place to start. I've also had suspicions about the alternator.

Also, I've had a good look at my exhaust and I can't find any holes. However during my last 2 e-tests I've been told my pressure is too low at curb idle to test, and they had to pretend my curb idle was 1100 rpm (tapped the gas) in order to get a reading. Does anyone else run into this ?
 
Hmm, is there any way I can check my IAC ? I've been meaning to replace the battery for a bit, which is a good place to start. I've also had suspicions about the alternator.

Also, I've had a good look at my exhaust and I can't find any holes. However during my last 2 e-tests I've been told my pressure is too low at curb idle to test, and they had to pretend my curb idle was 1100 rpm (tapped the gas) in order to get a reading. Does anyone else run into this ?

yeah, take it off. Clean it with some Throttle Body cleaner and put it back on. Takes an hour at best and is pretty easy to do on a duratec. Cleaning it might fix it for a couple of months, but I would replace it to be sure.

Your alternator is probably fine, yo uknow its going back when you are accelerating and the battery light starts to flicker.
 
yeah, take it off. Clean it with some Throttle Body cleaner and put it back on. Takes an hour at best and is pretty easy to do on a duratec. Cleaning it might fix it for a couple of months, but I would replace it to be sure.

Your alternator is probably fine, yo you know its going back when you are accelerating and the battery light starts to flicker.

It won't fix the IAC if you just clean it unless it is just gunk thats the problem. Which most of the time it is not gunk. You might just have to replace it.It's like 30 dollars at the dealer. Just go replace it.

Either the IAC= Idle air control
or
TPS= throttle position sensor.
 
I had similar symptoms recently. Turned out to be leaky intake gaskets.
 
Last edited:
It won't fix the IAC if you just clean it unless it is just gunk thats the problem. Which most of the time it is not gunk. You might just have to replace it.It's like 30 dollars at the dealer. Just go replace it.

Either the IAC= Idle air control
or
TPS= throttle position sensor.

I got a quote on an IAC from part source and they're telling me $90...but I'm not too worried at that cost either, since from the looks of it's an easy enough job. I work with computers for a living, and it is a whole lot easier to troubleshoot those than my car =P
 
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