BrandonSVT99
CEG'er
# W702421-S309M is this the correct part # for the strong shifter tower bolt?I know that it is the correct part I'm just wondering if it is any stronger than the factory one.
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Shifter tower bolt number
- Thread starter BrandonSVT99
- Start date
theSCHAFF
Hard-core CEG'er
That's the factory part #, so no its not any stronger, its the same exact bolt. what you'll want to do is get a hold of this bolt, then take it to a hardware store and try and find the same exact bolt in an upgraded steel if you want a stronger one.
good luck with that one ... you might have a chance at a nut and bolt speciaty store but not at a local harware store ...
you can also contact Terry Hanies as he sells a modded shift tower that eliminates the bolt ... I believe it becomes keyed so there is no more chance of snapping the bolt ...
BrandonSVT99
CEG'er
I have heard that cost some money(200+) I can really afford that since i have to pay for the trans to come out the diff install and then the waterpump replacement.......Is there anything I can do like Thread-lock to make it stronger?
morbid
Hard-core CEG'er
The head sheers off.. so threadlocker will do nothing except make the extraction more difficult 
Don't the bolts have a unique end on them, so you can't just get a standard replacement bolt?
Don't the bolts have a unique end on them, so you can't just get a standard replacement bolt?
I'm not sure but the point was you will never find the correct or high grade bolt at your local hardware store, or even a specitalty store ... I know I look for control arm bolts and to get the right ones locally at a specitalty nut and bolt store it would have be be ordered and they came in sets of 50 ...
yeah they cost some money buts whats more, a few more hundred now for a shift tower that will never break or having to pull and rebuilt the trans again if the bolt is to break and fall into the trans and damage anything ... :shrug:
BrandonSVT99
CEG'er
I understand your point brapple and I would love to get a "key shifter tower" but right now I physically do not have the money right now.I'm only 20 so you can imagine what kind of damage(money wise) the shifter tower breaking and having it repair does to my account.
todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
The genuine Ford bolt is NOT a hardware type bolt.It is a 'tri-lobe' locking design to prevent it shaking loose.The current Ford part replaced an earlier bolt of the same part number but was NOT the same design.This bolt NEVER broke but is not now a Ford stock item.I know full well,from looking at both bolts,why the current part breaks it's head off...Simple forces acting in an adverse way on a bolt that is NOT the correct design for the job it does.Long story/explanation but I won't bore you with.Suffice to say that a new ,genuine current Ford bolt will,in time,break again.There are only 2 fixes that never break the bolt or pin(in the case of the Focus style tower) One is the keyed tower mod I offer, the second is a kit of 'tower/turret' upgrade parts offered by Quaife.This kit is mainly for Focus style towers but can be used on early MTX tower...It will cost you over $600....!!! Your choice,keyed tower,stock bolt that will go again,'wally World' Harware bolt that will be weaker still than the stoc pat without a locking feature or the Quaife kit...Speed on brothers,...hell isn't full yet!!! Regards,TH
Regards,THBrandonSVT99
CEG'er
Thanxs for the info Todras....But how long do you think it takes before it breaks again?,my car has almost 120,000 and it broke because I was ripping on it and being stupid.I don't beleive it would of broken if I was being stupid and ripping the shifter.
well you just answered teh question yourself, being stupid and ripping on it will break it sooner then later ...
theSCHAFF
Hard-core CEG'er
My car only has 67k and the head already sheared off... :nonono:
Quick question, when your removing the shift tower (stuck in 2nd) I've heard of people getting it out, i'm havin trouble but i just dont want to pull too hard. so it is possible with plain old brute force ?
Quick question, when your removing the shift tower (stuck in 2nd) I've heard of people getting it out, i'm havin trouble but i just dont want to pull too hard. so it is possible with plain old brute force ?
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todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
Incorrect, even normal shifting is constantly fretting
on the bolt and putting it into a shear
condition...This happens on the current bolt...all the
time.The ideal situation is to take any load off the
bolt..and that is what the TH 'keyed tower' does...:0....TH
morbid
Hard-core CEG'er
You scare me when you "channel" like that! :crazy:
ROTFL. Once again, thank you, Terry (and todras for posting). :laugh:
todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
...welding the bolt, lockwiring the bolt etc...none of this will stop the bolt breaking and loss of gears or stuck in gear. The only way is to stop any load on the bolt during gear engagement(keyed). Even if the head doesn't fall in the trans you are still stuck in gear and have the problem of removing the tower & FWIW the selector arm the bolt holds to the vertical shaft is a hard PM (powdered metal)part that is a pain to weld, as all PM components are. TH
Bolt
Bolt
I agree that the current bolt is a tri lobe self locking type, intending to provide a mechnical means of preventing it from coming loose, BUT it could realistically be replaced by a 10.9 grade, which is very hard (same as current spec) X 1.25 thread pitch flange headed nut that would certainly be available at a Motorcycle shop. Then clean thouroughly both the internal threads in the shaft and the bolt and then torque to proper spec for a regular bolt of that material, and use a fair amount of red locktite.
Bolt
I agree that the current bolt is a tri lobe self locking type, intending to provide a mechnical means of preventing it from coming loose, BUT it could realistically be replaced by a 10.9 grade, which is very hard (same as current spec) X 1.25 thread pitch flange headed nut that would certainly be available at a Motorcycle shop. Then clean thouroughly both the internal threads in the shaft and the bolt and then torque to proper spec for a regular bolt of that material, and use a fair amount of red locktite.
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