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car died

T

trhlz1222

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Dec 28, 2006
Messages
919
Location
Holly Springs and Parish
well today when i was pulling back into the school my car shut off. i had it in gear and going through the gate and it turned right off. i started it back up before it could even stop rolling. its a 98 svt with 90500 miles on it. any ideas?
 
Any CEL codes? What issues do you presently have which have not being resolved? If the answer to both is no, check IAC valve and wiring from battery to alternator and from battery to ground, especially under the battery tray. Other issues could be a failing crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor but these two usually have a CEL code. I'm sure there are a lot more issues but check these items first.
 
Did anything flash or did the wipers move on there own? If so, alternator might have a bad connection or is failing.

Other than that, I'm not to sure. Like Tony said, the CEL light would've sprouted if any of the sensors are not working properly.
 
when the car was off the CEL was on but it went off as soon as it started back up. this morning when i went to work out i turned on the heat and it made all the map lights and such flash on and off. other then nothing else has happened.
 
95 Contour 2.5L Duratec Auto Also Died, in the Snowstorm

95 Contour 2.5L Duratec Auto Also Died, in the Snowstorm

I have the same of problem of my Contour dying on me.
Yesterday there is a big snowstorm in Boston, and it later turned into rainstorm. I had to drive through deep puddles and some completely submerged streets. Just when I feel lucky that I did not have the usually battery light-freezing steering problem when water splashed over the belt, I saw the red battery light and oil light (on the right upper corner) went on, and yellow check engine light also on. The engine stopped, and I glided to a halt in an intersection. I can start the engine for a second, even move one yard or two, then the engine will shut off. I did this two times, and decided to wait quietly for AAA to tow me to the garage.
While waiting to be towed, I opened the hood and felt that the engine temperature is normal. But around two poles of battery there were two pools of dark red fluid.
My Contour 95 started to seriously disrupt my schedule and my life. Even though I want to keep it, my family and I decided to buy a new minivan (probably Toyota Sienna) in two weeks. So the Contour will only be used as backup and grocery-shopping car.
Since I felt that the cranking of starter is very strong, and the engine started up instantly, I do not think the battery is the problem. The alternator seems more likely the culprit. But, how can I explain the dark red fluid from the battery?
 
I can say without a shadow of doubt that you need a new IAC valve. They usualy go bad between 80-90K miles pending upon your driving style. They get gunked up with carbon and stick, so when the engine needs to go back to idle it wont adjust to the right position and the engine just stalls.
 
trhlz1222 said:
... this morning when i went to work out i turned on the heat and it made all the map lights and such flash on and off. other then nothing else has happened.
Click to expand...
This sounds like an alternator VR problem (if you had it on DEF or DEF/FLR) or wiring harness issue 99M03. Call your friendly Ford dealer to see if you are covered under 99M03.

Edit.
99M03 Customer Satisfaction Extended Warranty.
http://www.contour.org/FAQ/recall/99M03/

Alternator/battery test in M&M how to.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=56
 
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yea thats wat it was on. the only problem is that this weekend im going home from school and tearing the uim and lim and tb out to have powder coated and cleaned so it will have to be after that but i can still call them to see.
 
well the car died once more today on my way home. i was slowing down for a light and it shut off and the oil light started to blink and then i started it back up and it went off. i checked the oil when i got home and its fine but im changing it today anywayz. would it still be the iac valve? it acted like it just lost all power but it almost happened again and i gave it a lil gas and it kept running. any input?
 
Definetely sounds like your alternator is failing. If you need to keep your rpm up to keep your car from stalling. Check and clean the IAC and check the wires to the alternator. After all is done with no obvious issues, get a muiltmeter and check your current across the battery terminals. Its something like 12.4-12.7V when car is running and 14V w/ car off. Could someone verify this.
 
well i got to the iac today and it looked brand new still. it was very clean. after my car is back together i may take it to a garage to have it looked at. how much am i looking at for this kind of problem to be fixed do u think?
 
I would suppose that they will charge one hour or so ($75 to $100) to look at it. But I wouldn't waste time or money for that unless they provide free diagnosis or will credit you if you get them to fix it. If you are near SE Michigan, contact Rawburt. He has changed Duratec V6 alternators, oh..., maybe..... 6 times or so and can probably do it blindfolded and with one hand tied behind his back (in 30 minutes or so). :laugh:
 
KerryKool said:
Definetely sounds like your alternator is failing. If you need to keep your rpm up to keep your car from stalling. Check and clean the IAC and check the wires to the alternator. After all is done with no obvious issues, get a muiltmeter and check your current across the battery terminals. Its something like 12.4-12.7V when car is running and 14V w/ car off. Could someone verify this.
Click to expand...
Kerry's got it reversed. In addition, it should be charge it well, then headlamps on for one minute. The M&M how to forum has the how to.

trhlz1222 said:
nope located in north carolina. how can i check to see if thats the problem without taking it anywhere
Click to expand...
Alternator FAQ in M&M How to.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=56
 
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