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Baer kit

gorman

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
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just been reading adam102487's thread about Baers.


Does anyone know if there is any benefit to upgrading from single pot to twin pot calipers ... using the same size rotors ?


I have no plans to change my wheels so space is an issue .... so no 13" rotors.


I checked and it looks like the pads for the calipers i have in mind are the same surface area as the single pot ones. Single pot piston is 57mm and twin is 42mm x two.... is the servo an issue ?.


Read several forums and everyone seems to think something different .... anyone done this swap ? ......G.
 
Street

m not considering this to impress anyone ..... in fact i would paint the calipers to look OEM so they do not draw attention.

i'm looking to improve my brakes before i hook up the Vortech.

Cost is not an issue ... having an avoidable crash, is .....G.
 
Everything else being the same (same size rotor and same pad area), changing from single to multiple caliper piston is mostly about pedal feel and ability to modulate the brakes. The more you spread out the piston forces across the whole area of the pad and backing plate, the better your ability to "feel" and modulate the brakes. In severe usage, a single piston and large pad may allow the pad to bend at the ends, and the parts of the pad not being pushed on by the piston may warp away from the rotor surface, which reduces brake effectiveness. Some years ago, I think it was Alcon that came out with 6 and 8 piston calipers that instead of using one large pad, used 6 or 8 little pad wedges, each one being slightly larger than its respective piston. These calipers were just stupid expensive, but said to have great "feel" and be very easy to modulate.

There are also some small "feel" difference between having pistons on one or both side of the caliper. Calipers with pistons on one side must be sliding calipers so they maintain their centering over the rotor as the pads wear. Assuming minimal pad knockback with a single or multiple piston caliper with pistons only on one side, there may be more piston and pedal travel before the caliper moves and pads fully engage the rotor.

With a fixed caliper that has pistons on both sides, and again, with minimal pad knockback, the amount of piston and pedal travel before pad engagement may be lower than a sliding caliper with pistons on only one side. This is nice because there's less dead pedal travel before the pads bite the rotor.

I've ignored all the effects of larger brake systems with larger diameter rotors, which give more brake torque for the same pedal force, and because the rotors have more mass, will have more thermal capacity to absorb brake heat and be able to make multiple stops without fade. Thicker rotors also improve brake system thermal capacity. More pad area also improves the thermal capacity of the pads themselves.
 
thanks for running thru that gary,

The problem i have is the brakes don't seem to have any urgency. I'm wondering if it's just that i have become used to them. I remember when i stepped up to 300mm rotors from 276..... i was very pleased.

I have a set of 4 pot calipers from a jaguar but i would need 1" spacers for the calipers to clear my wheels. ... my tires would stick out 3/4" too.

I was looking at electric vacuum pumps today. I know it would be a good idea considering the Vortech. I'm hoping to kill two birds with one stone ... maintaining a higher vacuum level so increasing braking force.

Maybe if i'm still not happy i could install the twin pots and add 'feel' to any added braking force.

Suggestions / comments ? ....G.
 
OK i've been looking around for brake vacuum pump kit.

I've found one kit that wires the pump to a brake pedal trigger.

Does anyone have experience of a pump wired in this way ? Is this the best way or is a vacuum pressure sensor triggered setup the way to go ?

thanks ....G.
 
I've decided to go with a vacuum triggered switch ( Cole Hersee 9253) controlling a Jaguar brake servo vacuum pump.(open loop type).


I'm leaving the UIM vacuum pipe system in place and using the vacuum pump as a complementary/ back up system.... in case at anytime the brake booster needs topping up. ( FI running). Belt and braces if you will.

Any suggestions or heads up would be appreciated.

Does anyone have experience of the 9253 vacuum switch ? They were used on Chrysler, Dodge, Ford and Buses. I could use the voltage/current ratings which now seem to have disappeared from the internet. thanks....G.
 
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