Popping axle questions in regard to purchase.

[qbcsvt]

When I make a right turn my car has some type of popping or jumping into gears or thru splines from the drivers side.

I am thinking my CVJoints are gone and I might as well get a whole new axle...

Now on http://www.axlesforless.com It shows ABS/NON-ABS axles. Im not sure which ones to get.

1999 CSVT 11/30/98 build date
is there a way to tell from the car or current axles i have on?

Also How do i remove/install old/new axles. I cant seem to find a how-to.

Any special tools involved?

- amyn

 

[BAD SVT]

When I make a right turn my car has some type of popping or jumping into gears or thru splines from the drivers side.

I am thinking my CVJoints are gone and I might as well get a whole new axle...

Now on http://www.axlesforless.com It shows ABS/NON-ABS axles. Im not sure which ones to get.

1999 CSVT 11/30/98 build date
is there a way to tell from the car or current axles i have on?

Also How do i remove/install old/new axles. I cant seem to find a how-to.

Any special tools involved?

- amyn

if ur svt's a 99, it should have abs. shouldnt matter tho. am not positive if theres a how to on here. i usually just pay to get it done.

 

[BAD SVT]

just went to the website. thats way too costly dude! the cost of axles for our cars has dropped a bunch. i got two remans for 70bucks. on that website, it did say limited lifetime warranty. am not sure what that means exactly. if i kept on snapping mine, will they replace em? that i'd like to know.

 

[qbcsvt]

Im not sure I trust anybody w my car.... Last time I got my car repaired it was at Aircougars.....

Im not sure I wanna drive all the way up there with my situation....

- amyn

 

[BrApple]

just went to the website. thats way too costly dude! the cost of axles for our cars has dropped a bunch. i got two remans for 70bucks. on that website, it did say limited lifetime warranty. am not sure what that means exactly. if i kept on snapping mine, will they replace em? that i'd like to know.

axlesforless.com sells GCK axles which appear beefier then stock. they are also 100% new.

there was a $35 off code a few months back. I am currently running a set.


as for tools needed, a slide hammer with an axle puller (looks like C) would be best. but for the passanger side a hammer and a punch or brass drift would work also.

to remove you need to get the axle out of the knuckle and then either out of the transmission for the drivers side or off the intermediate shaft for the passanger side.


also you have abs so you want the axles that are for abs. this means they have the pulse wheel built into the axle. you can use a abs axle in a non abs car. you can also use a non-abs axle in a car with abs as they are the same size, lenght, etc but the abs will not function because they will not have the pulse ring for the abs.

 

[qbcsvt]

SO its a matter of just forcing/slide hammering the axle out of the tranny or out of the intermediate shaft....

And putting the axle back in is just pushing it in till the c-clip snaps back in???

Does anybody know if these axles come with the new Axle nut? or do I have to grab these "one time use" nuts from BJ???

- amyn

 

[BrApple]

SO its a matter of just forcing/slide hammering the axle out of the tranny or out of the intermediate shaft....

And putting the axle back in is just pushing it in till the c-clip snaps back in???

Does anybody know if these axles come with the new Axle nut? or do I have to grab these "one time use" nuts from BJ???

- amyn

yes you use the slide hammer to remove the axles and then you, with care, force them back into place until the c-clips snaps into place.

also they come with axle nuts. they are solid and not the stacked kind like OEM.

 

[qbcsvt]

Are there any seals to that will be needed?? Will I need to fill my Tranny a bit/will I lose any tranny fluid???

Or is this literally just buy and replace type of thing...

- amyn

 

[BrApple]

there are axle seals if you want to replace them but you don't have to.

passanger side is not a problem. you will loose alittle fluid on the drivers side. just refill as needed.

 

[madman666]

I just purchased a set of these from axles for less with the NECOSPECIAL coupon. I paid $ 133.07 shipped to my door for the pair .
these are very nice units,and it only cost me $220 to have them installed.
unfortunately for me the axles were not what was wrong with my car.

 

[SVTJON87]

well I'm happy this thread came up. as mine are throwing grease everywhere so I'm just going to replace rather then get a new boots.

 

[qbcsvt]

well I'm happy this thread came up. as mine are throwing grease everywhere so I'm just going to replace rather then get a new boots.

Same here and one side is popping...

Regarding the deal it is on axlesforless.com adding 2x axles then cpn code necospecial will give us $35 bucks off and the prices is correct depending on S&H!

- amyn

 

[SoopaCooga]

yes you use the slide hammer to remove the axles and then you, with care, force them back into place until the c-clips snaps into place.

Here's a picture of the tools i borrowed from AutoZone to do the job. Note that the slide hammer has the FWD axle puller attachment on it.

Top Row
Tie Rod Splitter OEM27022
32mm Socket OEM27051/OEM27053
Flange Axle FWD puller OEM27037

Middle Row
Breaker Bar (Optional but helpful)

Bottom Row
Slide hammer OEM27033
FWD axle puller adapter (attached to slide hammer) OEM27022

 

[96SEBlack]

Thanks for the pic of the tools. I also need to do this both sides. It looks like something I might be able to do myself.

Do you need jackstands or will a regular jack, one side at a time, work OK?

For parts I'm looking at either the GCK CV axles from axlesforless.com or maybe Raxles. Any thoughts?

 

[BrApple]

since you need to get the knuckle free from the control arm you will need to remove the sway bar link. you can do this with one side on the ground and one in the air but the sway bar will have a load on it so I don't suggest it. just get the front end up in the air.

 

[SoopaCooga]

Jack stands are always advisable. Never rely on a jack to hold the weight of the car, especially when you are underneath it.

Some people say it's easier to start with the passenger side, that way you can (carefully) tap out the driver's axle. With the slide hammer pictured above, it won't matter which side you do first.

I bought my axles at Advance Auto Parts in order to get a limited lifetime warranty. In the past, I simply replaced the torn boot with a new one. It's not hard at all and much cheaper than new axles.

 

[SVTJON87]

I really thank you for posting the tools. i need to do this very soon. i kinda got over whelmed when my Ford CD was so vague on how to do it.

wanna do a how-to? pretty please that way i will be comfortable doing this.

before i order parts want to make sure i order everything i need. I also need all new C-clips. (where did you get yours?) But again my repair manual is horrible on this job.

Edit: i just pulled out my Haynes manual and the description is much much better. and now i feel 10x better about doing this.

 

[96SEBlack]

What axles did you get from Advance...GSP, Powerline, Cardone? New or remanufactured? It looks like they all have a limited lifetime warranty, but are more expensive than axlesforless (GCK) or Raxles. I only want to do this once. They all look good to me, but are there any to avoid for our cars?

 

[SVTJON87]

I believe it was said that people have had very good luck with GCK half shafts. I also think it was said that they seem a bit more beefy then stock. and they are new, not re-mans.

I have been reading up on Raxles.com. from what i have read on other forums through google and they seem like good ones. Raxles.com says they are the only ones to use new joints. so i don't know I'm kinda torn between the two.

 

[SoopaCooga]

I bought GSP. My friend bought Cardone. They're all the same, really, as they all come with a limited lifetime warranty. The axles came with circlips and nuts. I have an extra pair of new axle nuts. LMK if you need them.

When I prepare to perform a repair, I look it up in both the Haynes manual and the Ford manual. I then compare the procedures. Haynes tells you how to do it without the special tools, but sometimes they recommend additional steps that are unnecessary. Also, the Haynes manual often has the wrong torque specs. The Ford CD has the "recommended" procedure, but of course we must make do without the special tools. In this case, you don't need the special tools, or even the ones I posted; although, the slide hammer is more effective than a pry bar for getting the axles out.

If this is your first time doing axles, struts, etc, then set aside plenty of time. I also recommend maybe making your goal to just get one side done this weekend. The following weekend you can do the other side, and it will go much faster.