|
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,395
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,395 |
Originally posted by rkneeshaw:
Well, its gone (!?!?!?!?). Maybe bad gas? After filling up again today at Mobil with good old 93 octane, drove it to Alpena and back (about 220 miles round trip) and well, its gone. No more knock.
I did get this sound clip of it this morning before it went away. Sorry for poor quality, it was taken with an MP3 player from my drivers window:
click me
Note how it smooths out above about 1100 RPM this morning. Each time I turned off the car, it would only make the noise at a lower RPM.
I am running a superchip which advances my timing, so I'm assuming poor gas would probably cause it. Sound right?
EDIT: It does, however, still idle like crap. Not a strange noise, but it sits there and stumbles all over the place. Could the bad knock have maybe fouled a plug (I don't know what that means, but seems like it would cause bad idle)?
Thats what I call major knocking, mine is very quiet, its probaly because of the timing belt cover too... 
Former owner of a 1995 Ford Contour GL w/ 2.0L ATX
Proud owner of a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 Vulcan 
--Looking for Commodore stuff (Drives, Units, Amiga, games, etc)If anyone has any of this laying around and wants it gone, lemme know --
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570 |
Are 20 mile drives to and from work considered short drives? Whats wierd too is my trip to Alpena? Well, it definately wansn't a normal trip. I'll just say the normal drive time is 2 hours, I was there in 1 hour 7 minutes :P What can I say, the road was empty. Anyway, the car ran at steady high RPM's for awhile then too, but went away. Now after I posted its back, its gone again (the knock that is) but it still idles really rough, I mean I feel the vibration of the engine in my seat now at idle.
Should I be checking simple things like plugs and wires first? de-carbonizing the engine sounds $$$$ since I'm sure they have to pull the heads off, at least thats what I'm assuming.
I do have to install the new IMRC, replace the sticking IAC, and clean my intake manifolds again, and I think I'm going to switch to Autolites anway. Think its worth a shot?
I just dumped a buttload of money into the trans, and the engine has always ran well, until BAM, this happens this weekend out of the blue.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570 |
Also wanted to mention the car is driven at between 75-80 on a daily basis on my 20 mile drive to work in the morning, and on the 20 miles return trip home (all highway). So the 90 MPH cruise downstate wasn't TOO out of the norm.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463 |
No itâ??s not too expensive and it is similar to a fuel injector cleaning, basically itâ??s a chemical treatment, via the intake manifold. I would guess $100 depending one who does it.
You should check the basics, a cracked plug, coil pack or bad wire will cause a ticking sound and sometimes a genuine Knock at idle.
Was the car always driven on long trips? Or is this something new?
And remember, over octane=carbon=degraded performance.
jeff
have you fixed your ford lately?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 246
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 246 |
A cheap way to de-carbon the engine is to get a spray bottle of water, and spray it into the throttle body with the engine running. This causes enough of a temperature change to cause the carbon to 'come off' for lack of a better term, of the engine parts. I haven't used this method, but am told it works. I watched a Tech at work decarbon a Mustang using one of those chemical treatments, the knock this car had before the treatment was horrible, it sounded like it was going to fall apart. After a few minutes of high-revving, and white smoke coming out the exhaust, the engine ran like new. No more knock, and it idled smoother. I would suggest either having the engine professionaly decarboned, (de-car-boned?) lol..or try the water mist method.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570 |
Originally posted by mercman:
Was the car always driven on long trips? Or is this something new?
And remember, over octane=carbon=degraded performance.
It always sees alot of highway miles. There's the 40 mile round trip drive to and from work every weekday, then at least maybe 4-5 500 mile round trips downstate a year. There's not much mileage this car has seen that is stop-n-go city driving. But I'm passing cars enough to keep the RPM's always going up and down 
I do run a SuperChip that requires a higher octane fuel because it adjusts spark timing. I also thought the higher octane not only makes the car "peppier" but also burns cleaner? no?
Originally posted by tastethefury:
After a few minutes of high-revving, and white smoke coming out the exhaust, the engine ran like new.
Well first the water mist thing just sounds scary. I was under the impression water and engines don't mix  But anyway, this sounds just like when you spray some carb cleaner in through the TB when the car is running.... Is de-carbonizing as easy as that?
Shoot, I can spray a few cans of TB cleaner through the TB while its running if that'll help... Remember too though that I've regularly cleaned my intake manifolds (I realize thats not the cylenders) and run a bottle of injector cleaner through the system every 4000 miles or so. Woudlnt' that help prevent carbon buildup?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 76
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 76 |
Well I work with a mechanic here and he heard your sound clip and said that it is probably knock.He did also say that you could have carbon build up and that yes the water trick down the throttle body will work or intake cleaner just remember if you do either change your plugs after because they will be full of crap
REDLINING IT ALL THE TIME
1998 mtx zetec contour
17.1 @79mph
open element air filter
ford 9mm racing wires
dtm style exhaust
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015 |
It's too fast and irregular for rod knock, from what I can make out from my seat here in my cube. I would say that Mercman's diagnosis may be spot on. In any case it wouldn't hurt to run some MOPAR Combustion Chamber Cleaner through it, which runs about $5 a can from your local Chrysler dealer. It does exactly what mercman described. It breaks up the carbon in your engine and shoots it out the exhaust.
The only variation I take from the instruction on the can are to let the car sit a least a few hours once the inter contents are emptied into the engine, to really let it do it's work. Then when you start her up you'll sweat your car was on old diesel train by the amount of smoke and noxious crap that come out the exhaust. Great for redusing the mosquito population in your area (not so great for the ozone layer!).
Ryan, call me if you have questions.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,660
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,660 |
My preferred method of using those types of cleaners are to use the liquid version, hook them up to a vacuum port and slowly meter the contents into the motor. Let about half of it in, keeping the revs up a bit to keep the motor running. At about half a can let the revs fall and it'll stall. Let the stuff that's trapped in the engine soak for a few hours and then re-start the motor and run the remainder of the cleaner through it. Change your oil after you're done to get the solvents from the cleaner out of your crankcase. Pulling and cleaning the plugs after isn't a bad idea either, though an old-fashioned Italian tuneup would probably be sufficient to clear them of any junk from this procedure.
Good luck,
Scott
Troll! '99 BMW 328i
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570 |
Cool, good info. I've done some searching around and found this page. Anyone heard or used that BG 44k stuff? I also found these instructions for the MOPAR CCC. Sound about right? I plan on picking up about two cans (probalby only use one) of the MOPAR shiz, and a new set of Autolite douple-plat spark plugs and give my whole intake an overhaul this weekend, if I don't have stazi install my camber plates.
|
|
|
|
|
