Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes Aftermarket Rotor Warpage -Rule or Exception?

I've had a hankering to beef up my brakes and the SPMotorsports kit seems just the ticket. Problem is (apart from finding money), I've seen more than a few complaints about aftermarket rotor warpage only after a few hundred to a few thousand miles (this just won't do. I'm not in the habit of swapping rotors every month or so). To those who have used x-drilled or slotted rotors on their contours, what are your experiences?

Thanks.

I have the SPMotorsports Brembo/KVR setup on my SE and after 1100+ miles have yet to warp 'em. Of course I read the directions. Aside from no panic stops for the first few hundred miles, they also recommend 4 stops from slow speed, like 10-15MPH I believe and then let them cool for an hour. I drove my car around the Subdivision making exactly four stops. (Last one being in the driveway!) I then took a shower and got ready for work. (I put my pads and rotors on at 6AM before running off to work at 8AM )



And for a few more details...

http://walden.mvp.net/~tboner/ContourRotor
No trama yet!

Cheers,

TB



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Tony Boner
Personal: tboner@mvp.net
Work: tony.boner@central.sun.com

Saving the computer world from windows as Unix/Solaris/Java Guru * Sun Microsystems Rocks *
http://www.sun.com
Goofing off with cars
******************
Duratec Vehicles
1999 Contour SE 2.5L ATX
K&N FilterCharger
SuperChip
KVR/Brembo Cross Drilled Rotors and Pads

2000 Mazda MPV (Yes 2.5L Duratec)
Stock

Looking for 95-97 5speed SE as 3.0L duratec project car
Looking for 3.0L duratec for same
******
Non-Duratec Vehicles
Daily Driver: 1987 Buick LeSofa^H^H^H^HSabre 3.8L V6 -- 150HP AND 215ft/lbs torque

[This message has been edited by tboner (edited July 13, 2000).]

I had bought a set of Powerstop X drilled with some performance friction pads. I took it easy on them for about 400miles with one panic stop from 40. That weekend I went to a 3mi mile road course and drove home limping on brakes. I torque before and after so I know it wasn't me. I called the place that I bought the rotors from and they said about 3 other people called and had the same problem... but it only seemed to be the SVTs, not sure about others...

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David Z.
Silver E1 #4808 w/stuff
http://daplace.spedia.net

Aside from the torque thing, rotor warping has a lot to do with the inital quality of the rotor and how long the iron is allowed to cool when the rotor is manufactured. I don't know who Powerstop buys their blanks from, but if they're low-quality Asian imports that could be the root of the problem. I've had good luck with Canadian-made Brembos and Eurorotors on my other toy, a '93 RX-7 R1. Unfortunately, neither company has an application for the stock SVT front rotor, but you can get Brembo rear rotors for your SVT. If you want to pay for cryogenic tempering, that helps. You can argue whether it's the -300 cold cycle or the heat-tempering that follows, but I've not had cryo-treated rotors warp yet.

No luck with the Power Stops. I went back to Raybestos(Made in Canada)with no problems. PS rotors warped twice and I am not hard on brakes.

I also have the Brembo cross drilled/KVR carbon pad set up on my SE. I bought directly from KVR as I'm in Ottawa, Canada on business regularly. They're an excellent upgrade at a reasonable cost. I've had no problems with them after 10,000+ miles. They import the Brembo's from ITALY, and have the carbon pads done in California.

I have a good friend who owns an industrial brake supply shop. His advice re: rotors-stay away from anything offshore. They're cheaper, but there is a reason-inferior quality. Stick with North American built/cast stuff.

Ok, when did ITALY move over here from Europe. Sorry, just had to say it

TB

My KVR's have warped after 15 months of usage. I've put about 15K miles on them.

-Lance

Lance: KVR is a supply house, not a manufacturer. I don't know which type you're referring to, but their stock rotors are Euro-Rotor while their cross drilled are Brembo. They have the pads made up by someone else and then package them as their own. Trust me, I've spent a lot of time in their shop talking about brakes with these guys. If they did warp prematurely, I guess my buddy was right about offshore crap (although he was referring to the Pacific rim)! Mine have been OK, but I haven't put the kind of mileage on them that you have.

Thanks for the info. Seems like going the SPMotorsports kit route would be best, given the options available. Now, time to find some money...

Bradness: Yes, I'm aware of that -- I was just trying to be brief

My cross-drilled rotors are Euro-rotors, so I don't think they try to use one particular brand for drilling.

-Lance

You may be correct Lance, that they sell whatever is on the shelf at the time. Those were the "house" brands whenever I have been there. Additionlly, I've found a couple of rules, which in my opinion, when followed, will extend the life of rotors. 1-Always use a torque wrench to tighten wheel lug nuts gradually, to the correct torque settings. 1a-Never let a mechanic tighten your lug nuts with an impact gun! 2-Use a burnishing procedure for new rotors and/or pads to allow them to come up to operating temperature gradually. Also, KVR and others recommend that you do not install new pads and rotors at the same time (can't comment). Extreme measures for rotors-cryogenic treatment or vibrational stress relief ($$$)!

Two comments and I'm out of this one:
- I have purchased 2 complete sets of rotors direct from KVR and have been totally satisfied with their products, pricing, and quick shipping both times. They do try to push cross-drilled, but are not obnoxious about it.

- I had my last set of RX-7 rotors cryo-tempered for $50 total. Found a local guy with 300 Below machine. I wouldn't pay the prices brake supply houses want for cryo tempering, either. Check your phone directory for listings like "Polar," "300 Below," etc. if you're near a large metro area.

Ned: How did you like the cryo treatment? I was thinking of getting it done.

I use my '93 RX-7 at track events with Hawk Black pads, which run around 800 degrees hot. No warping and little wear with cryo-tempered rotors thus far, with about 250 track miles on these rotors. Given the expense of anything for the FD RX-7, I like cryo-tempering just fine!

First, I am quite anal about correct torque on the lug nuts. Before I installed the SVT fronts on Sofia, I had a set of KVR X-drilled rotors, No problem in 20K mi or with their carbon pads. The slotted SVT rotors I got from KKM ARE a class part and no warping yet. The plain Brembo rears I got from KVR needed a slight trim out of the box. In this "save a nickle for the shareholders" era, don't think ANY brand is totally reliable.

Good point by the OF- Have your new rotors checked on a brake lathe BEFORE you install them. I've been selling foreign auto parts for almost 30 years. It is not unusual for new rotors to need a light cut out of the box. Some of the rotor brands I sell are Ate,Brembo,Zimmerman,Balo,and Mountain (Japanese vehicles). Volvos(by far) have the most problems with rotor warpage. BMW runs second. My best accounts always check rotors before installation. Nothing worse than a "comeback".

O.K., so I have Powerstops on the way and I was just going to bolt them right on. Do I really have to have them checked on a brake lathe? How much is that and will a shop be willing to do it for me?

Also, if I could find a good deal, I would go for the cryo treatment. Anyone know of a place in the Chicago area that will do it? I don't want to have to mail them out, that's a PITA and costs alot to ship because these suckers aren't light. I called around to a performance shop I know and they couldn't think of anyone who did it. Looked online on yahoo Chicago and bigbook.com but they were no help. Thanks.

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Adam Wilson
Chicago CEG member
http://www.automotiveinfopage.com

[This message has been edited by FLIP (edited July 19, 2000).]

FLIP, talk to Bob Reed at 300 Below in Decatur, IL (217) 423-3070. He called me after inquiring on their website about their cryo process. Pretty knowledgeable and damn nice to boot. Get your rotors to them by any Thursday, and they will ship them back to you next Tuesday or Wednesday. The do things by the pound, so total up the weight of your rotors. The price is $1.50/lb. with a $49.50 minimum charge. If your rotors total below $49.50, you still pay $49.50. This is the shop that I'll be shipping my rotors to when I get them. Hope this helps, and they are pretty much in your back yard. Tell him the guy from Oklahoma told you to give him a call.

FLIP- Any shop that cuts rotors can check them for you. Should not be much $.