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Never heard of torque to yeild bolts. Did a little research on them. They are used a lot now on head bolts and body applications. If the WP bolts are torque to yield type the problem may well be them. TTY bolts are only supposed to be used once, then they start stretching and losing holding power. I think I'll get some new bolts for that pump before I blow $500.00. They might just do the trick. It doesn't seem to be leaking from the weep hole or shaft, seems to be coming from the gasket. Hopefully I didn't torque them to the breaking point when I retightened them. Only thing I question about this theory is why would it not leak for a week, then start dripping?
1996 Mystique
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
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Posts: 5,345 |
Originally posted by Bill1:
..Only thing I question about this theory is why would it not leak for a week, then start dripping?
Ever heard of bolts or screws eventually coming loose due to vibration? 
And do clean the surfaces again to remove all the old gasket and RTV gasket. And you may as well try soaking a new gasket with with coolant for an hour or so (even though I haven't heard of that being a solution to leaking gaskets).
Edit. Oh, and a reasonable condition 1996 Duratec is worth about $2000. $500 is not an insane amount to spend on maintenance and repairs. I have spent $1000 this year and consider it low (I think I am looking at $1500 to $2000 next year).
and I just read Ray's post. Backflush, backflush, backflush... before reinstalling.
One other thing, welcome to CEG. 
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7
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I'm thinking I'd just get new bolts and replace them one at a time without removing the pump. The surfaces of the back half were cleaned well when we changed the pump. Gasket was sealed with sealer on both sides. If it's the bolts just swapping them one at a time should pull it tight, right?
1996 Mystique
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
Addicted CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Bill1:
... If it's the bolts just swapping them one at a time should pull it tight, right?
I don't know. If you're going through so much trouble (remove battery, tray, etc.) to get to the WP, you might as well replace the gasket.
Anyway, here is Ford's official howto. I wonder if the pump housing is broken. Is the impeller spinning freely or is it "loose" on the housing?
Water Pump
Removal
1. Drain engine cooling system.
2. Remove water pump pulley shield.
3. Rotate water pump drive belt tensioner clockwise to relieve tension on drive belt. Remove drive belt from water pump and water pump drive pulley.
4. Remove water pump inlet and outlet hoses from water pump.
5. Remove three water pump-to-LH cylinder head retaining bolts and remove water pump from engine.
6. If required, separate water pump from water pump housing and remove water pump drive belt tensioner.
7. Inspect water pump and hoses for wear or damage. Replace components as required.
Installation
1. Clean water pump-to-water pump housing gasket sealing surfaces using a wire brush, if required.
2. If removed, install water pump to water pump housing with a new gasket. Tighten water pump to water pump housing retaining bolts to 22-25 N-m (16-18 lb-ft).
3. CAUTION: Water pump retaining bolts must be replaced with new bolts. They are torque-to-yield designed and cannot be reused.
Install water pump and new torque-to-yield water pump retaining bolts onto LH cylinder head. Tighten new water pump retaining bolts to 15-18 N-m (11-13 lb-ft), then rotate retaining bolts 85-95 degrees.
4. If removed, install water pump drive belt tensioner to water pump housing. Tighten retaining bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).
5. Lubricate water pump inlet and outlet hoses with Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA or D7AZ-19553-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A. Install water pump inlet and outlet hoses onto water pump. Install water pump outlet hose spring clamp securely.
6. Rotate water pump drive belt tensioner clockwise and install water pump drive belt. Carefully release drive belt tensioner.
7. Install water pump pulley shield as outlined.
8. Fill engine cooling system.
9. Run engine and check for coolant leaks.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7
Newbie
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I don't have to go to a lot of trouble. I can change the bolts rather easily. Just remove the belt tensioner and belt and one hose. The gasket should be OK. The last one wasn't blown out when we replaced it. Remember, I'm only changing the front half of the pump. The remanufactered version. Not the OEM full unit version.
1996 Mystique
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
I have a brand new housing and a metal pump if you need either.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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