Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance UIM rebuild aides (WITH PICS)

• Regular non SVT Duratec
  F5RZ-9E936-A
• SVT Duratec
  F5DZ-9E936-AE
  

• Clip number: WPT336
• Part number: 3U2Z-14S411-JPA

• Disconnect the Negative terminal of your battery. (so that it will reset and re-learn the new air amounts it can breathe!!!)
• Start off by removing the plastic cover on the front of the engine.
  
  
• Now disconnect the sensors on your intake tract: There is one on your Throttle body, one on your MAF, and one between the two, on your intake plenum. Also remove the rubber hose that connects to the "front" edge of the air plenum
  
  as well as the two hoses on the "rear" side(one large one, and one smaller one beneath it.)
  
  
• Disconnect the IAC electrical connector (silver roll of film on the firewall side of the TB.
  
  
• Remove the air filter, and air intake plenum so that you are looking directly at the Throttle Body (unobstructed)
  
  
• Disconnect throttle cable from the TB and the cruise control cable, if equipped. For 1995 5-speed vehicles, take care not to lose the metal clip for the throttle cable when you are removing it. Once the cable is removed the clip will slide right off. This is accomplished by manually "revving" the throttle body to its MAX point, then sliding your finger around the bottom of the fixture. Work the metal cable out as you go (it should pop out of a "groove" that goes all around the fixture) pulling it towards the firewall, so that when you let GO of the TB, it will return to its normal position, but without the cable in the groove. Simply push the small silver cylinder at the end of the cable out of the hole, and you are done. (Cruise control simply "pops" off)
  
  
• The next item that is holding out UIM to the car is the EGR. It is located on the driver's side of the engine, to the rear, and is a silver "UFO" looking device on top of some rough metal. Remove the green vacuum hose on top of this BUT BE CAREFUL.. they are brittle and WILL SNAP IN A HEARTBEAT! Once that is off the top of the EGR, remove the two bolts holding the egr to the UIM, and slide the EGR away from the UIM area.
  
• remove the three bolts that hold the Throttle Bracket to the UIM area (one is a double-duty kind of bolt.. it holds one corner of the TB itself, AND the bracket..
  
  
• Remove the Throttle Body, and set it aside, too...
  
• You now need to remove the two vacuum hoses on the TOP of the UIM. Hold your fingernail against the tiny round plastic circles that are around each tube. While holding, pull up on the tube itself.. like buttah, it'll slide right out.
  
  
• That looks like that's about it, huh? Don't forget this little bugger on the firewall side, just to the passenger side of the IAC. This is the EVR(There is no gasket for this)
  
  
  
• Loosen all six of the UIM bolts on top of the UIM, and set them aside (don't get mixed up on which bolts go where, now! take a piece of cardboard, and smash each bolt in the cardboard, to hold it, and then use a marker and write "UIM bolts" etc, so you can have a temporary storage area that will keep things seperated!
  
  FROM THE UIM REBUILD FAQ!
  
• Now that the UIM bolts are out, the uim will be loose, and "float" on top.. lift straight up, and slide the UIM off the car, and lay it somewhere soft (don't scratch that beautiful coating on it, or the ports on the bottom side!
• Remove the caked on gaskets that will be remaining, and toss them (Yes, I know.. they look FINE.. almost like you could re-use them.. right? Did you hear me? TOSS EM!!!!!)
  
• Cover the openings of the lower intake with clean rags to keep anything from falling into the openings. Anything that falls in will likely end up in the head or the cylinders themselves.
  

Once they are all pushed in, you can slide the wiring harness off of all the injectors and move it aside.
(You will probably have to [and I suggest you do] undo the wires from the small threaded studs on the passenger side of the LIM area [they just hold all the wiring nice and tidy...] so you have enough slack..) as stated in Step 17 of the rebuild how-to.
Once removed, it should look like this:

• Relieve the residual pressure from the fuel system. Locate the fuel pressure relief valve (Schrader valve) on the fuel line. Remove the cap and wrap a rag around the valve before relieving the pressure in order to catch the fuel. The relief valve looks just like a tire valve stem.
  

This can be seen here:



and here



19. Disconnect the IMRC linkage at the front set of ports. The grommets holding the linkage to the lower intake will likely disintegrate on older cars. Consider having new ones on hand. They are expensive little items from Ford (~$5 each, see parts list for part #).



20.Remove the seven 8mm bolts that retain the injectors and fuel rail (fuel injection supply manifold). BE CAREFUL, as the injector retaining clips can come off and fall below the lower intake. If you do not intend to remove the lower intake, they can be hard to recover.

(1) Fuel Supply Line
(2) Fuel Pressure Regulator
(3) Fuel Injector
(4) Fuel Injector Retainer
(5) Bolt (7 required)
(6) Lower Intake Manifold
(7) Fuel Injector Seal
(8) IMRC Linkage Rod Bushings
(9) IMRC Linkage Rod

21.You can now reposition the fuel rail with the injectors still in the rail so that you can work at removing the injectors and the fuel rail to intake manifold seals. It is recommended that you remove the fuel rail prior to removal of the injectors as residual fuel can drain directly into the cylinders.

Fuel rail and injectors (still connected together) coming off of the LIM:


Fuel rail removed from LIM: (set aside)


22.(1995-97 only) Remove the fuel rail to intake manifold seals. You will need to replace these seals if they are older than 2 years! They become hard with time and fail to seal the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold, causing unmetered air to enter the head.

23. Carefully remove the clips that retain the injectors onto the fuel rail -- they tend to fall off by themselves.

24.(1995 only) Remove the IMRC valve from the lower intake manifold, which is attached via two 8mm bolts. Set the valve assembly aside.

25.Remove the vacuum line from the top of the fuel pressure regulator and set aside.
(You can see the pressure regulator in the first secondary linkage picture.. rubber boot attached to the top of the silver round regulator.

If you are replacing the FPR itself, please note:

Originally posted by ck42:

---

After getting everything together, I started it up the first time. It was HARD to start! Had to crank it a LOT...even with multiple fuel pump primings. Started to back out of the garage and noticed a huge puddle of something liquid. Got out and noticed it was gas. Pulled back in and proceeded to pull the UIM off again. Got the wife to prime the pump as I watched. Turns out it was coming out of the new fuel pressure regulator.
I took off the regulator and compared it to the original. .
The new regulator didn't have the three washers on it. It didn't have them because I didn't order them.....
Anyway, pulled the old washers off the original regulator (no choice) and put them on and proceeded to put everything back together again.

---

You may wish to snag three new FPR washers.


26.Unbolt the seven 8mm lower intake manifold bolts, observing the proper removal sequence:


27.Remove the lower intake from the heads. It will likely be covered in oily residue, so place on some clean rags or newspaper.
This is a picture of the heads after the LIM has been removed:


28. Cover the openings in the heads with clean rags to keep anything from falling into the openings. Anything that falls in will end up in the head or the cylinders themselves.

29. Thoroughly clean the lower intake. Ideally, you�d want to let it soak in a chemical dip, but that will likely damage the butterfly shaft seals. Have several cans of intake cleaner on hand and a brass brush for cleaning the intake out. (1995-97) Be sure the clean the ports that mate with the fuel rail very well.

LIM AFTER CLEANING will look something like this:




30. Turn the IMRC stop screw (3/8" for some reason) on the lower intake so that the secondary butterflies cannot fully close. This will help keep the secondary passages from building up caked on oil by keeping the passages cooler. It does not affect low-end performance, and actually benefits mid-range before the IMRC normally opens. � of the travel on the screw is a good setting. It is recommended that only 95-97 cars do this -- later models develop drivability problems, especially SVT's.

31Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces on the heads, being careful as not to let any dirt/crud fall into the heads themselves. Using a rag and the air intake cleaner, clean all items that have the brown gas residue on it like the fuel rail, and fuel injector retaining clips, and other surfaces on the heads. This crud can cause a fuel smell that can enter the cabin. If you do not clean it up, you will still have the smell.

These are the heads after a thorough cleaning:


If you wish, you can clean up and put everything back together. If you wish to perform a "fuel system rebuild", click this link. how to coming soon

CLEAN THE UIM COMPONENTS:

So.. you now have the LIM and UIM undone?
The IAC is still attached to your UIM, right? (silver roll of film looking thing on the firewall side of the TB, remember??)

well.. let's get that done really quick:

• Replacing the IAC gasket:
  (From IAC faq)
  Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long.
  
  The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience.
  

Take your UIM, and go somewhere that is safe to have dirty, carbon crudded liquid poured (metal bin, etc.. it will kill the grass, and stain the driveway, and strip the finish off the top side of the uim if spilled, just so you know..)

Turn it upside down, and look:

• Using the B12 spray and liquid:
  Clean all that carbon crap out of each port, and also out of the TB mating hole. Also take care to clean the small "cut-out" path within the TB hole, as that is the EGR passageway, and can cause P0401 codes if gunked up.
  
  Clean the TB (Throttle Body ) well. (including EGR ports as stated above)
  
  Installation:
  Install new lower intake gaskets in the guide holes on the heads.
  Reinstall the now-clean lower intake back on the heads. Tighten bolts to 72-108 INCH-lbs, observing the proper tightening sequence:
  
  
  42. Install the new fuel rail to lower intake manifold seals onto the bottom of the fuel rail. (1995-97 only)
  
  43. Reinstall the fuel rail on to the lower intake manifold.
  
  44. Carefully install the injector retaining clips. When installing the clips be sure that they are installed so that they do indeed retain the injector. The clips need to go under the slight lip on the fuel rail -- you will need to push down on the injector slightly to get them under that lip.
  
  45. Tighten the seven 8mm fuel rail retaining bolts to 72-108 INCH-lbs. Order does not matter.
  
  46. # (1995 only) Reinstall the IMRC valve to the lower intake and connect the linkage. The linkage grommets have likely disintegrated, so it is probably a good idea to have three new ones on hand.
  
  47. Install the upper to lower manifold seal onto the lower manifold, making sure to get the guide pins on the gasket into the holes on the lower manifold.
  
  48. Reinstall the injector wiring to the injectors. Make sure that the connectors cannot pop off the injector with a light tug.
  
  49. Reinstall your fuel pressure regulator vacuum tubing. (That rubber elbow piece, remember?)
  
• If your UIM is sufficiently shiny, take your new gaskets, (upper intake to lower intake) and apply them to the LIM (inserting the alignment studs on the gasket in to the holes on the LIM.
• place the UIM on the gaskets (it will "float", there are no alignment, or locating pins. It will float until you secure it will the UIM bolts.
  Tighten in the correct sequence:
  
  

If you are going to perform a TB optimization, now's the time to do it.. look up that How-to on the site, and have at it..)

• Continue putting things back together in the reverse order they were taken apart. All torque specs in this area are 72-108 inch-lbs., except for the EGR valve which is 15-22 ft-lbs.(from FAQ)
• When installing anything with a new "gasket" (other than lim/uim) such as TB, or EGR) make sure to get ALL of the old gasket off of both mating surfaces before applying new gasket, and re-installing.
• After you get everything back together, stop and look around to see if you missed anything.
• Before starting the car, turn the key to the on position, wait 2-3 sec., turn the key off. Repeat 3 times in order to prime the fuel system.
• You can now start the car. It should start right up. You may have a little smoke after start up from the oil used on the o-rings. Once the car is started check under the hood for any unusual sounds.
  

Your UIM and LIM are done.

MUCH thanks and credit go to PlatoSVT, without whom I wouldn't have been able to complete the LIM portion! Great work, man. Thank you.

APPROX. TIME AND COST:
UIM Gaskets- $22.60
LIM Gaskets- $18.04
IAC Gasket- $.45
TB Gasket- $3.00
EGR Gasket- $2.25
*Optional* Fuel Injector O-Rings- $6.80
*Optional* Torque Wrench- $9.95
6 Cans Valvoline Synpower Throttle Body Cleaner- $19.74
Small Brass Bristle Brush- $2.99
Large Roll of Shop Towels- $4.99
~ 3-6 Hours

Originally posted by vudusvt:

---

Thanks Ray!

Maybe we can get Lance to replace the one in the FAQ with this one.

---

Originally posted by I-Dom-In-8:

---

Nice job ray...

---