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OP
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I'm just past the 70k mark.
You're right about the seals, etc. I have what I think is the "normal" film of oil on the block. I think I'll have to pull the pan, anyway, among other things, and replace the gasket, as well as the crank seal, valve cover gaskets, etc.
I read the procedure in the Ford Factory Service Manual for changing rod bearings, and it looks very straightforward (surprisingly so). I don't know if I'll do it, but it seems to me that it would be much cheaper to do something like this, now, than pay for a complete rebuild or new block later on.
Anyway, things that look simple often aren't, so I was looking for "gotchas."
I cannot attest to my own mechanical skills, but many years ago I owned a VW Beetle. Thing needed valve adjustment with just about every oil change, and the main seal would blow about every 12000 miles. Had to pull the engine out of the car to change it. That car was anything but low maintenance.
And, I must add, that everything you complain about with this engine is quite common to many engines, from domestic to exotic. Rubber ages, seals deteriorate, belts and waterpumps need replacing... These are very normal. Granted, the 2.5 Duratec has other issues that are less common, but not unheard of among more prestigious marques.
Only thing I'm worried about is pulling the pan to change bearings and finding big metal shavings floating around in it!
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Joined: Jun 2001
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by btrautman:
I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........
Bob
I completely disagree.
Even high mileage 2.5L engines don't have main bearing issues. The mains on every engine I've messed with have been fine.
mine too - never had a problem with mine - even though 4 of my 6 rod bearings were hosed
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Originally posted by btrautman:
I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........
Bob
I agree to disagree with Tom.  This is what the SHO guys do FYI since they are prone to rod bearing failure as well. 
http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
CEG'er
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CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176 |
Originally posted by todras:
Originally posted by btrautman:
I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........
Bob
I agree to disagree with Tom. This is what the SHO guys do FYI since they are prone to rod bearing failure as well.
http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html
Interesting to note that the url that refers to this process mentions nothing about replacing the rod tty bolts. They are not reusable.........hmmm.....
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Originally posted by btrautman:
Interesting to note that the url that refers to this process mentions nothing about replacing the rod tty bolts. They are not reusable.........hmmm.....
Bob
Because in the SHO they are reusable. 
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,760
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,760 |
And I have done that, its fairly straight forward. Originally posted by todras:
I agree to disagree with Tom. This is what the SHO guys do FYI since they are prone to rod bearing failure as well.
http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html
Ryan
Trollin!
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by todras:
Originally posted by btrautman:
I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........
Bob
I agree to disagree with Tom. This is what the SHO guys do FYI since they are prone to rod bearing failure as well.
http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html
True, but since the sho has nothing in common with the duratec.....
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,760
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So we can't put the 3.0L SHO engine in our car Tom?  I think Todd's point was for replacement of the rod bearings its the same basic procedure for in car replacement.
Ryan
Trollin!
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