Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Fried my PCM? ///PLEASE HELP///

Here's scoop, hope someone can help..I have a 99 SE 2.5L Sixer AT parked in the driveway, wife left the foglights on and drained the original battery dead. Hooked up a charger and charged the battery fully til the battery light turned green. I jumped in the car expecting it to fire up and nothing..checked the fuses and all are good. Looked at the owners manual and found something interesting about the key. If you turn the key to the ignition point it flashes a code. Mine stays on for about a minute then flashes irratically..therefore showing a malfunction (which seemed obvious to me the car wouldnt start)Does anyone have any quick and easy fixes, I only have one programmed key to the tour..
And now for the rest of the story..Towed Car to Ford, checked it out and came up with code B1601. Mechanic told me I had a fried PCM and he will call with prices on Monday. He also told me I should not have jumped the vehicle as it can possibly fry the system. However in the manual its states you can jump the vehicle. Has any one had this problem that can help or a little advice. Seems like a catch 22 to me. Thanks Spdey

DTC B1601: Incorrect key code received. Go to Pinpoint test C.

Pinpoint Test C:
C1) Receive DTCs. Is B1601 received? YES: Go to C2.

C2) Check for Programmed encoded ignition keys.
Does the PCM PID NUMKEYS display 8?
YES: Erase and program the keys. Refer to Key Programming - Erase all keys and Program Two Keys in this section. Repeat self test, clear DTCs.
NO: Go to C3.

C3) Verify that there are two currently programmed keys available with the vehicle.
Are there 2 keys?
YES: Go to C4.
NO: CUT and program two new keys. Refer to Key Programming - With Diagnostic Equipment in this section. Go to C5.

C4) Verify the PCM PID SPARE_KY indicates YES.
Does SPARE_KY indicate yes?
YES: For additional information, refer to Key Programming - Using Two Programmed Keys in this section.
NO: ENABLE the PCM SPARE_KY. For additional information, refer to Key Programming - Spare Key Programming Switch in this section. REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the DTCs.

C5) Check the encoded ignition keys for correct operation.
Place the ignition switch in position II for 3 seconds using the first key.
Place the ignition switch in position II for 3 seconds using the second key.
Start the vehicle using the second key. Does the vehicle start?
YES: For additional information, refer to Key Programming - Using Two Programmed Keys in this section.
NO: Go to C6.

C6) Retreive DTCs, check for B1601. (This section is all pictures until the question at the end.)
Clear DTCs. Place the ignition switch in position II. Check DTCs. Is B1601 retreived?
YES: Install a new PCM.
NO: System is OK.

It looks like the PCM could be the culprit, but I'd check and make sure they didn't assume that by asking if they carried out all of Pinpont Test C for the PATS system. Did they cut you a new key and program it (since you say you only have one)? That is a prerequisite to declaring the PCM dead (see C3).

FWIW, if I was using a charger to boost a battery (not to start the car), I would disconnect the battery cables. I have however had my car jump started, by another Contour no less, and both are currently running fine.

Hope this helps, and good luck. A new PCM won't be cheap.

PA,
Is the PCM covered under the emissions warranty?

Hmm....if you fry the computer, I don't think they'd cover that under the emissions; just my $0.02

Thank you for the information, I will talk to the dealer on monday to try and figure this out, The dealer also stated the key I gave him is not supposed to be to my car, he stated it is a key from off of the assembly line and I am not supposed to have this key. On the key itself there is a mark on the bare metal with a stamp code of V. I hope this can help solve my problems. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for this..

Good luck Spdey!

Rynn,
I was asking cause our 99 Contour has a bad PCM according to our local mechanic. He took it to the dealership and advised us that the PCM should be covered under the warranty; we have esp as well as the federal emissions stuff warranty which appears to cover the PCM.
This is the warranty:"...Under the Emissions Defect Warranty for passenger cars and light duty
trucks, Ford Motor Company also provides coverage, including labor and
diagnosis, for 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for these
emissions parts:
² catalytic converter
² electronic emissions control unit (PCM)
² onboard emissions diagnostic device"

My key is the exact same way. Matter of fact, both of them are. If the dealer is saying the "V" is a key you shouldn't have, they are full of it.

Well Here is the scoop, it'll run me about $577 to replace the PCM does this sound about right..Thanks for your help..

Well, the list price for that PCM is $280, $230 at www.ford-outlet.com. For $200 labor and $80 for the part, ouch. I could put it in for you for $10.

I had to remove mine to get the Mafterburner in. I could sale you mine and install it for $200 if I could find an aftermarket one.

PCM is a 10 minute job, if that. I think there is a How To on installing a Superchip that tells you everything you need to know with pictures. One bolt under the dash for the bracket, one bolt behind the Power Steering resevior (top left of engine compartment if standing at the front bumper - have to lift the resevoir out of the way) for the harness connector and it's out. If you DIY, be careful not to bend any pins when putting the connector back on.

Unfortunately, you'll need to have two keys programmed when you replace the PCM. That might be baked into the dealer's cost quote to you. But there is some money to be saved by buying a PCM from Bill Jenkins or Ford Parts Online and putting it in yourself. The tough part will be getting the car to Ford for the keys (got AAA?).