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So I've had the 65mm T/B on for some time now. The problem is, where the throttle cable pin slides into the T/B cam. When accelerating, it pulls the cable tight, and then letting off on the accelerater, it loosens it back up. Well the issue is, this causes the cable to get weak, and then start to break. Well I just noticed today, that my cable is hanging on by 2 strands. Any of you guys running the 65mm T/B, did you replace the cable pin, with something else, to avoid this? I'll take a picture of it as soon as my camera charges. To get an idea of what I mean, if you take a wire and keep bending it back and forth, back and forth, over and over, it will eventually break. It's breaking right at that slider pin that goes into the T/B cam.
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Mark, do you have the spacer nut that goes inbetween your throttle body and bracket? If thats not there, its going to cause some rubbing issues with the cable.
Jim Hahn
1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04
3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit
364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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Stazi made a fix for this, PM him about it.
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Mine only "de-rails" from the track when hand reving it...when driving normally, it does fine.
Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, this time more intelligently.
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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
Stazi made a fix for this, PM him about it.
I actually called him about it, as soon as I saw it. He told me at the track, during Spring Zing, that it would happen eventually. He said he made a fix for it, but I never ended up looking at it. Hopefully he'll call me back, or see this post. 
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Ah fark, I forgot, he is in Mexico. Probably seeing the donkey show as we speak.  The fix is seriously a hardware store type fix. It is a screw and small nut just stuck to the end of the cable and placed into the 'spot'. I remembered this when I was working on his car.
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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
The fix is seriously a hardware store type fix. It is a screw and small nut just stuck to the end of the cable and placed into the 'spot'.
Any ideas of how it works? I can't picture how I can make a screw and a nut, do the same function. Here are a couple pictures to show what happens.
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Got it fixed lastnight! If anybody is upgrading to the 65mm T/B, you'll want to do this! You'll need to buy, what are called "cable stops." Advance Auto sells them in a package of ~8 for $2.98, and comes in a few different sizes. I needed to drill out the side hole with a 7/64 drill bit, to fit the cable end through. I threaded the cable through both sides, so it stuck out the other side by just a bit. Then clamped the screw down to make it tight. It slides perfectly into the T/B cam socket, and allows you to rotate the brass cable stop, so the cable faces down, and directly into it's guide, instead of having a 90* bend.
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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OR, maybe they will want to put the correct linkage and system together.  lol, whatever works.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by warmonger:
OR, maybe they will want to put the correct linkage and system together.
lol, whatever works.
 Who is "they?" As for the current linkage, I'm obviously using the SVT cable. The SVT cable stop just BARELY fits into the 65mm T/B cam. Once you slide it in, you can't spin it, so the cable fits the groove that wraps around the cam. The Mustang cable stop must be a fraction smaller, so it will slide in and out easier. But this brass cable stop works great, and with cutting down the cable a little bit, it actually stiffened up my gas pedal quite a bit. Feels 100x better now. 
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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