|
|
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 367
CEG\'er
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 367 |
Within two weeks I�ll be replacing my 4 bolt LCAs with ball joints, adding svt springs, struts, strut mounts, and strut bearings. While in there I�ll be putting in new pads and rotors along with SS braided lines I got from BAT up front. I want to knock out as many issues as possible while things are apart.
My car has 215,000 miles on it. Yeah that�s right it�s a real trooper and a Zetec ATX at that. Anyway, should I replace my front sway bar end-links with an upgraded version? I think that someone had made their own using off the shelf Energy suspension pieces and hind joints so I look into that if so. A link would be cool if you know it.
I�ll be doing the cut the bolt and replace upside down method for the front driver�s side bolt out of the LCA. Does anyone know what size and type of bolt I should replace it with?
If you can think of something else I should check or replace please let me know.
Thanks,
Jon
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
You can get a bolt from Bill Jenkins. I just bought 2. With the ATX, when you install the new bold the exposed threads will be dangerously close to, or even have the tranny case resting on the bolt end. You may have to grind that exposed thread down a bit to prevent damage to the tranny case. If the tranny case is sagging & already very close to the existing bolt head, you may need to replace the driver side engine mount. I spun my bolt into place (with new control arm in place) nice & tight, counted exposed threads, then removed the bolt again. I put tape around the bolt leaving the appropriate number of threads exposed & ground off the end. Easy. Beveled the end threads just a bit & re-installed for a nice clean look. 
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,867
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,867 |
Realize that putting the SS brake lines on the front only, you will still have the compliance of the rubber lines in the rear, and won't feel a difference in your pedal until you do those as well.
The endlinks on the front don't really have bushings, but with 215k on them, they might be a bit worn. I'm not aware of any difference between any front endlinks, but if you need to replace them, see what's out there. Check the joint boots for damage, and look for play in the joint. As for making your own, I'm not sure it's worth it. The last thing I'd want to do is make the front end stiffer. Oh yeah, if you're replacing the front bar bushings, I'd go with OEM rubber (and put the ES poly bushings in the back).
Be sure to check the other linkages up front, as well. 215k is a long haul. Tie rod ends, etc.
HTH.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 367
CEG\'er
|
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 367 |
Thanks for the tip about the bolts. I'll contact Bill and if they are not that expensive I'll just get 4 new ones. I'll need new ball joints anyway I'll do some one stop shopping. Is there a nut as well that I should get or is it basically a weld nut that holds it in place?
As far as just replacing the front brake lines: My car still has rear drums and it's not really worth the expense to do a rear disk swap and I'm not sure the rear lines are the same between disk drums. Therefore buying new lines for the back most likely won't happen. I think that replacing the flexible lines upfront is wise with a car this many miles. It seemed natural to just upgrade while there.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 496
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 496 |
New ball joints come with the new LCA's.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,867
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,867 |
Originally posted by DESIGN:
I think that replacing the flexible lines upfront is wise with a car this many miles. It seemed natural to just upgrade while there.
True, but if you're not planning to do steel in the rear, you might as well just put fresh rubber lines on all around. Not certain that it's cheaper, but it'd be a shame to spend extra money for steel on the front that isn't going to do any good, and still only gets you halfway. It's not an "upgrade" if it doesn't work.
The advantage of the braided lines, btw, is in their stiffness, and resistance to expansion under pressure. They are not necessarily more durable or safer than the OEM rubber lines. The OEM lines are easy to inspect for damage, and when they do fail, they tend to develop slow leaks, rather than snapping in two.
Don't you have brake lines on the back? Even with drums?
I'm pretty sure there are lines available for your configuration, whichever way you go.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 367
CEG\'er
|
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 367 |
Originally posted by eepals:
New ball joints come with the new LCA's.
Actually my "new" LCA's are off a car that was rolled with only about 30k miles. The boots on the joints got damaged somehow and I thought it best to replace with new.
Braided ss lines are actually high quality rubber pieces wrapped in the steel braid. The ones I purchased from BAT are DOT approved and it is doubtful that they will "snap". If something goes wrong with them then they will most likely leak but not break in two.
|
|
|
|
|
