How involved/expensive to replace rod bearings?

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Clevite bearings are only about $50, but how hard is it to put them in? I know it can be done with the engine in the car and all, but what other expenses are there, or what would it cost to have this done?

I'm assuming that my current bearings are OK, and this would be a preventative improvement.

Yes it is possible to do the rod bearings with the engine in the car.

Follow the Ford service CD step by step.

Do only ONE bearing cap at a time and MAKE SURE to mark it's orientantion!!!

I can't stress any of that enough.

OK. I seem to remember reading that the rod cap bolts (or whatever you call them) are TTY. True? If so, where do I get new fasteners, and how much do they run?

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Yes it is possible to do the rod bearings with the engine in the car.

Follow the Ford service CD step by step.

Do only ONE bearing cap at a time and MAKE SURE to mark it's orientantion!!!

I can't stress any of that enough.

Wow...
I thought doing without tearing down the engine was a bad idea? Is this a complicated process beyond just pulling the oil pan and following instructions? Any idea how many hours involved if you were paying someone to do this..

Sorry for all the Q but if its straight forward would seem like cheap insurance for the 2.5..

Pull the oil pan and follow the instructions to a T.

This is not the ideal way to do bearings but it's definitely not a "bad" way to do them either.

I would expect it to take a couple hours.
It is not a hard job either but one that you should take your time doing and that requires high attention to detail. Better to double check then to make even one small mistake.

I agree that it is less than ideal to replace bearings it such a manner. I'm not sure that I would want to do this as preventative maintance unless I really knew what I was doing. I'm not sure that it is worth the risk.

I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........

Bob

I can see the point, and I have thought about doing it.

The main issue with this engine is the rod bearings (well, maybe the oiling issue at high revs is more critical, or at least related). The Clevite 77 rod bearings are a big upgrade durability wise. The mains don't give much trouble on this engine.

The point is that the task is a bit tricky and if you don't do it right you will have rod bearing and crank problems.

If you are skilled at this proceedure or have a technician that is, you should be fine. If not, it is a bit risky.

Originally posted by btrautman:
I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........

Bob

I completely disagree.
Even high mileage 2.5L engines don't have main bearing issues. The mains on every engine I've messed with have been fine.

If his engine is in otherwise good shape and he just wants a better bearing material, then this is a good idea and not too hard.

The bearing caps are cracked powder-metal. They will only go back together one way. You shouldn't be able to see any seam when you put them back together. They will look like there is no crack at all. That is when you know they are on right.
You have to take out all the plugs, pull the y-pipe and the oil pan. They you just turn the engine around one rotation at a time until the rod you want to change comes down within easy reach.
The parts that are important are changing out the bolts and installing the bearings correctly with some pre-lube. In an already oiled engine I'd just use some more oil to lube them and install the caps.

Not a beginner task, but it could be if you take your time and are somewhat handy with things.
This all assumes you find everything all right when you open the pan too.

Originally posted by warmonger:

Originally posted by btrautman:
I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........

Bob

I completely disagree.
Even high mileage 2.5L engines don't have main bearing issues. The mains on every engine I've messed with have been fine.

If his engine is in otherwise good shape and he just wants a better bearing material, then this is a good idea and not too hard.

The bearing caps are cracked powder-metal. They will only go back together one way. You shouldn't be able to see any seam when you put them back together. They will look like there is no crack at all. That is when you know they are on right.
You have to take out all the plugs, pull the y-pipe and the oil pan. They you just turn the engine around one rotation at a time until the rod you want to change comes down within easy reach.
The parts that are important are changing out the bolts and installing the bearings correctly with some pre-lube. In an already oiled engine I'd just use some more oil to lube them and install the caps.

Not a beginner task, but it could be if you take your time and are somewhat handy with things.
This all assumes you find everything all right when you open the pan too.

Oh Well! To each his own. I don't recall if you stated how many miles is on the engine....but it has been my experience with 2 95 Contour's that other parts begin to wear out....like.....front and rear crank seal, upper/lower gaskets, timing cover seals, oil crankcase breather cap and hose, vacuum harness, etc, etc.

In my case I did not want to be "revisiting" the engine to fix various issues....IMO Ford is just wonderful for this....the old adage FORD "Fix or Repair Daily" I think has alot of issues behind it

Regards,
Bob

I'm just past the 70k mark.

You're right about the seals, etc. I have what I think is the "normal" film of oil on the block. I think I'll have to pull the pan, anyway, among other things, and replace the gasket, as well as the crank seal, valve cover gaskets, etc.

I read the procedure in the Ford Factory Service Manual for changing rod bearings, and it looks very straightforward (surprisingly so). I don't know if I'll do it, but it seems to me that it would be much cheaper to do something like this, now, than pay for a complete rebuild or new block later on.

Anyway, things that look simple often aren't, so I was looking for "gotchas."

I cannot attest to my own mechanical skills, but many years ago I owned a VW Beetle. Thing needed valve adjustment with just about every oil change, and the main seal would blow about every 12000 miles. Had to pull the engine out of the car to change it. That car was anything but low maintenance.

And, I must add, that everything you complain about with this engine is quite common to many engines, from domestic to exotic. Rubber ages, seals deteriorate, belts and waterpumps need replacing... These are very normal. Granted, the 2.5 Duratec has other issues that are less common, but not unheard of among more prestigious marques.

Only thing I'm worried about is pulling the pan to change bearings and finding big metal shavings floating around in it!

Originally posted by warmonger:

Originally posted by btrautman:
I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........

Bob

I completely disagree.
Even high mileage 2.5L engines don't have main bearing issues. The mains on every engine I've messed with have been fine.

mine too - never had a problem with mine - even though 4 of my 6 rod bearings were hosed

Originally posted by btrautman:
I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........

Bob

I agree to disagree with Tom.

This is what the SHO guys do FYI since they are prone to rod bearing failure as well.

http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html

Originally posted by todras:

Originally posted by btrautman:
I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........

Bob

I agree to disagree with Tom. This is what the SHO guys do FYI since they are prone to rod bearing failure as well.

http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html

Interesting to note that the url that refers to this process mentions nothing about replacing the rod tty bolts. They are not reusable.........hmmm.....

Bob

Originally posted by btrautman:

Interesting to note that the url that refers to this process mentions nothing about replacing the rod tty bolts. They are not reusable.........hmmm.....

Bob

Because in the SHO they are reusable.

And I have done that, its fairly straight forward.

Originally posted by todras:

I agree to disagree with Tom. This is what the SHO guys do FYI since they are prone to rod bearing failure as well.

http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html

Originally posted by todras:

Originally posted by btrautman:
I'd almost say that if you feel you need to change the rod bearings, you should also change the main which would require pulling the motor. I'm not sure what you gain by doing this...........

Bob

I agree to disagree with Tom. This is what the SHO guys do FYI since they are prone to rod bearing failure as well.

http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html

True, but since the sho has nothing in common with the duratec.....

So we can't put the 3.0L SHO engine in our car Tom?

I think Todd's point was for replacement of the rod bearings its the same basic procedure for in car replacement.