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Joined: Apr 2003
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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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New ball joints come in assembly with new lower control arms. I got mine for $33/ea at www.genuine-ford-parts.com.My control arms were the two vertical bushing types, not the horizontal bushing variety as my Contour is 1998 SE. In the middle of 98 model year Ford made the switch from horizontal bushing to vertical bushing. Yes, the new arms with fresh bushing deflected more without interference. I inserted the 2 x 2 lumber in the middle of control arm triangular hole and leveraged it downward with my foot. Much easier with two people( not for strength but for two pairs of hands ) as you will need to guide the knuckle over the ball joint stud at the same time you are pushing down on the lumber. But it can be done by yourself - I managed. Happy to see that you got through the job.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by TSIN03SE: New ball joints come in assembly with new lower control arms. I got mine for $33/ea
No way, you sure you don't mean $133/ea?? for BOTH control arm AND ball joint?
The new ball joints alone cost about $33 from Bill Jenkins alone.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 397
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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Originally posted by rkneeshaw: Originally posted by TSIN03SE: New ball joints come in assembly with new lower control arms. I got mine for $33/ea
No way, you sure you don't mean $133/ea?? for BOTH control arm AND ball joint?
The new ball joints alone cost about $33 from Bill Jenkins alone.
Nope..just looked...take a lookie:
http://www.parts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213787&chapter=DP2FM0&appSectionid=19&groupid=61005&make=10&model=Contour&year=1998&catalogid=1
EDIT: I looked at some other prices, and they're all in line with what Bill J. has been offering us...and the old style horizontal Lower Control Arms are $140 each
$39.24 each...unreal...
Last edited by SVT Doood; 06/17/04 04:46 PM.
T-red E0 SVT
ATS 17x7.5 Comp Lites, 215/45/17 Falken 512s, Ausi Bar, Boxed subframe, Poli all around, Warmonger's Opt Y, Opt TB, AFE, DMD, NGK's, Bendix Ti, Alpine, Polk, Mobil-1 0W-40, Redline MTL.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 119
CEG\'er
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OP
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okay, so looks like E1 changed the control arms too. or just 98.5 for non-SVT folks.
the new ones have a hole in the middle which greatly help with leveraging down which the old ones did not have.
so do the new arms have the NEW ball joints which are re-lubricate-able?
$33. unreal! MUST be a mis-price. wish i had gone that route...
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 140
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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I used a 6ft pry bar, sat on the end, and placed the ball joint in the knuckle with no problem. I have the horzontal bushing control arms.
I did have to file the bur of the edge off the knuckle though.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by PeterM: I used a 6ft pry bar, sat on the end, and placed the ball joint in the knuckle with no problem. I have the horzontal bushing control arms.
I did have to file the bur of the edge off the knuckle though.
Same here. I used a pry bar about 4 feet long, and sat on it while I used both hands to maneuver things into place. Before learning that trick, I spent hours and hours, using jacks, levers, compressors, and evil glares. Sitting on the pry bar was the only thing that worked with me.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Joined: Aug 2001
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if you guys both have the horizontal bushing control arms, where do you place the pry bar with such ease as to just sit on it?
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Joined: Jul 2002
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I can't remember the details right now, but I do remember that I put the pry bar on top of the control arm, approximately parallel to the axle, with one end inserted into an opening near the back of the control arm. I just can't remember exactly what that opening was. I believe it was between the top of the control arm and the subframe, but I can't be sure. Anyway, with the pry bar on top of the control arm, and parallel to the axle, one end of the pry bar stuck out beyond the side of the car, and I sat on the end that stuck out past the car.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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CEG\'er
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This is how I did it a few weeks ago when changing the front struts:
- Remove all components from steering knuckle assy - tie-rod, sway bar links, brake rotor, etc. - Loosen struts. - Use a gear puller to pop out the axle shaft from hub. - Have helper stand on the lower control arm. - Carefully pull knuckle outward, using caution to not pull the axle assy also (you don't want to hyper-extend the inner CV joint).
Should pop right out and off the ball joint stem. It takes a little muscle though. To install, the easiest way (I've done it several times already) to get everyhting back is the reverse of above. Especially important is to get the knuckle back onto the ball joint stem (it will at first be quite "cocked" in the knuckle hole) then PUSH the knuckle INWARD. This should snap everything into place. It worked for me.
Dan B.
96 SE 2.5 auto
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Joined: Nov 2002
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New CEG\'er
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I used a 7 foot BAR with my little brother on the end of it. Then tapped the hub with a hammer sharply and the ball joint popped out. For install I used little brother and BAR and my dad kicked the hub till the balljoint set in place. Be sure car is secure on stands and jacks before kicking. Expect about fifteen minutes of cussing atleast.
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