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Steering Rack - Help needed #974465 06/08/04 05:52 PM
Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 283 Halifax, Nova Scotia A Alan Coles_dup1 OP CEG\'er
OP Alan Coles_dup1 CEG\'er A Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 283 Halifax, Nova Scotia	I've blown out the "yolk plug" from my SVT's power steering rack. It's the plug at the bottom left of the steering rack. Passed a lot of $$$ equipment at the track. (BMW M3's new & old, new 911 Carrera & Boxster, new Subaru WRX, last generation Ferrari 328 GTS, etc.) Love my Toyo RA-1's These racks are a "non-servicable" part from Ford (that means just because the plug worked it's way out, Ford wants you to buy an entire new rack. Does anyone know of an in-car fix. I'd like to avoid the expense of pulling the rack as that involves suspending the motor-tranny combo and dropping the sub-frame. As a result of the leak from the yolk plug, my track day this weekend ended with no power steering. Found out about it on the transition into turn 7 on my local roadrace track. Turn 7 is at the end of the back straight where the "Lil Monster" is hitting 100 MPH as you tap the brakes to set the car and then turn right and hammer the throttle. Turn the wheel and NOTHING happens, turn some more and all of a sudden toooo much happens. Visions of going off the track backwards at approx. 100 MPH, are OK to talk about afterward but no fun at the time. Regards, Alan Coles 03 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD 98 Mystique 2.5 MTX 99 SVT - Inheriting Lil Monster's parts 98 SVT - Lil Monster (RIP) 183.7 whp Quaife/Fidanza/UR UD Clutch AFE/MSDS/SHO-Y/Bassani/MagnaCore GC/Koni/22mmR/EndLinks/ES/ KVR Slotted/1144's/SS Lines/MASItaly

Re: Steering Rack - Help needed #974466 06/09/04 04:17 PM
Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 851 B brianl703 Veteran CEG\'er
brianl703 Veteran CEG\'er B Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 851	The part is most likely available to the aftermarket for the purpose of rebuilding steering racks. Maybe you can check on the existence of a rebuild kit for that steering rack?

Re: Steering Rack - Help needed #974467 06/10/04 08:43 AM
Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 432 Cambridge, Ontario T Taasman CEG\'er
Taasman CEG\'er T Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 432 Cambridge, Ontario	Originally posted by Alan Coles: These racks are a "non-servicable" part from Ford (that means just because the plug worked it's way out, Ford wants you to buy an entire new rack. Does anyone know of an in-car fix. I'd like to avoid the expense of pulling the rack as that involves suspending the motor-tranny combo and dropping the sub-frame. Regards, Alan Coles You don't have to do any motor or tranny to remove the rack if your carefull. Look under the car, and you'll see a kind of plate over the top side of the rack. That plate can be removed by going down from the top of the engine at the firewall. If you remove the outer tie rod ends and the plate, then remove the pinch bolt from the steering shaft and the racks lines... you can work it out from the side. The easier way is to remove the two rear subframe bolts and put a jack under the subframe to allow it to come down a bit to give yourself some more room. Biggest thing to remember is that plate that goes over the top side of the rack...the one that is bolted to the subframe is bolted from the top and the nuts are on the bottom....Those nuts are welded to the subframe so don't try to remove them! Just unbolt with long extensions and a good flex down close from over the engine up tight against the firewall.

Re: Steering Rack - Help needed #974468 06/10/04 02:54 PM
Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 283 Halifax, Nova Scotia A Alan Coles_dup1 OP CEG\'er
OP Alan Coles_dup1 CEG\'er A Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 283 Halifax, Nova Scotia	Originally posted by Taasman: Originally posted by Alan Coles: These racks are a "non-servicable" part from Ford (that means just because the plug worked it's way out, Ford wants you to buy an entire new rack. Does anyone know of an in-car fix. I'd like to avoid the expense of pulling the rack as that involves suspending the motor-tranny combo and dropping the sub-frame. Regards, Alan Coles You don't have to do any motor or tranny to remove the rack if your carefull. Look under the car, and you'll see a kind of plate over the top side of the rack. That plate can be removed by going down from the top of the engine at the firewall. If you remove the outer tie rod ends and the plate, then remove the pinch bolt from the steering shaft and the racks lines... you can work it out from the side. The easier way is to remove the two rear subframe bolts and put a jack under the subframe to allow it to come down a bit to give yourself some more room. Biggest thing to remember is that plate that goes over the top side of the rack...the one that is bolted to the subframe is bolted from the top and the nuts are on the bottom....Those nuts are welded to the subframe so don't try to remove them! Just unbolt with long extensions and a good flex down close from over the engine up tight against the firewall. Thanks, Taasman I'll have a look. 03 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD 98 Mystique 2.5 MTX 99 SVT - Inheriting Lil Monster's parts 98 SVT - Lil Monster (RIP) 183.7 whp Quaife/Fidanza/UR UD Clutch AFE/MSDS/SHO-Y/Bassani/MagnaCore GC/Koni/22mmR/EndLinks/ES/ KVR Slotted/1144's/SS Lines/MASItaly

Re: Steering Rack - Help needed #974469 06/10/04 03:01 PM
Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 7,117 West Palm Beach, FL - Going to... T TourDeForce Hard-core CEG'er
TourDeForce Hard-core CEG'er T Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 7,117 West Palm Beach, FL - Going to...	Taasman, excellent & helpful post! It drew a picture in my head & now I'll know how to deal with my steering rack if I ever need to. Thanks!! Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.

Re: Steering Rack - Help needed #974470 06/11/04 12:13 PM
Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 432 Cambridge, Ontario T Taasman CEG\'er
Taasman CEG\'er T Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 432 Cambridge, Ontario	Some of the bolts you can get from the bottom, but most from the top. I think they are 15 mil bolts. I used about three or 4 6-8" extensions so they formed a bit of an arc and I taped everything together with electrical tape including the socket so it all stays together. When you re-assemble the plate, just put some of that putty type caulking in the socket to hold the bolt so you can start it...without dropping it.

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