Stage IV for those mods!? No way in hell should you do that! You'll just have a really harsh clutch that is made for a higher power rating.
Stage I would be best for your setup along with +90% of CEG'ers (Actually most only need an OEM LUK clutch. IIRC, Warmonger ran his stock clutch with his 3L in NA and FI form for a fair amount of time). It has steel backed organic lining which resists burtsing and tearing under high heat. It has the upgraded SPEC pressure plate, which no other clutch producer can do. Other clutch companies just repaint OEM pressure plates. Pretend stage II from SPEC doesn't exist.......Kevlar sucks for clutch lining.
The higher the stage from SPEC, the harsher it'll be. The higher the stage from SPEC, the more power it can handle. A higher stage SPEC clutch on a lower powered car = harsh engagement/operation and will last just about as long as a lower stage clutch that'd be much nicer to drive with. Don't make the same mistake so many tend to make and get a higher stage clutch.....just to have a higher stage clutch. It will not last longer, it'll just be harsher.
Best example to date is yet again....Warmonger and his OEM clutch. Look at how long it lasted and would've lasted if he had left it in his 3L turbo SVT. A SPEC Stage I is an OEM clutch on steroids.......the linging is better along with the pressure plate (MAJOR +!).
Bottom line reguardless of clutch you choose is how YOU drive your car. There are a few simple ways to extend the life of your clutch without having to driving like an old lady.