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I've recently purchased an SVT and am looking to make a few performance mods. The most glaring problem (PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong!) is the UIM. The airflow pattern just looks silly. Air goes past the TB and Imediately has to make 2 90' turns..then a bit furthur along the intake tract another 90' turn to the 2 main rails. Finally to get to each intake tract (all 12) yet another almost 90' bend. To me this is totally counterproductive to making usable HP. I know everyone wants to add all these special airfilter/intake kits to smooth airflow and gain massive HP ( what? 2-3 if that?) only to get it negated by the brick wall intake manifold. I think this is the main reason why there's such a small performance gain by adding any type of intake kit.
How to remedy this problem (besides muting the author)? Picture the TB about 6-12" closer to the drivers side fender. Then picture the intake stretched out to the TB. A couple of major bends just got smoothed out and a hell of a lot less turbulence in the UIM.
I think this would hell a ton in making HP regardless of it being stock or modded.
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i may be wrong but the bends might be what give you the torque that the engine puts out. I know I have read discussions before about aftermarket y-pipes that don't have the 90 bend for bank 2 that there is a loss of torque
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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He's talking about the UIM, not the exhast. I think you could use the stock 3L UIM as that had a streight path and it does little (from what I've heard) for hp or tq. Maybe 1-2 hp but that's the same as an intake really.
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Originally posted by Wien_Sean:
He's talking about the UIM, not the exhast.
He was talking about the UIM too. He was just comparing how bends in the UIM and exhaust give tq.
Jim Hahn
1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04
3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit
364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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Originally posted by Mustang:
Picture the TB about 6-12" closer to the drivers side fender. Then picture the intake stretched out to the TB. A couple of major bends just got smoothed out and a hell of a lot less turbulence in the UIM.
I think this would hell a ton in making HP regardless of it being stock or modded.
Just grab that sucker and stretch it out...
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Originally posted by Wien_Sean:
He's talking about the UIM, not the exhast. I think you could use the stock 3L UIM as that had a streight path and it does little (from what I've heard) for hp or tq. Maybe 1-2 hp but that's the same as an intake really.
but the stock 3l doesn't flow as much air as a svt intake. The manifold is actually quite a genious design. If you did not notice when you get around 3000 rpms the car really opens up. Its causes there are butterflys in the lower intake that open to let the addittional runners provide them with air. If you notice there ar two lenths in the runners that provide air in the lower intake manifold long and short.
if you really don't like what watson/ford engineers have created try something custom.
Last edited by svtProdigy; 02/25/06 05:00 PM.
PLEASE HELP ME GET MY CAR TOGETHER! ITS IN DAYTON OHIO! I need the motor together and in the car so i can DRIVE it! Pleeeeeese!
diamond pistons for 3.0/forsale
#702 of 2150
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The dual length intake runners are to provide increased torque when needed, and is of a very useful design.
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Originally posted by Mustang:
I've recently purchased an SVT and am looking to make a few performance mods. The most glaring problem (PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong!) is the UIM. The airflow pattern just looks silly. Air goes past the TB and Imediately has to make 2 90' turns..then a bit furthur along the intake tract another 90' turn to the 2 main rails. Finally to get to each intake tract (all 12) yet another almost 90' bend. To me this is totally counterproductive to making usable HP. I know everyone wants to add all these special airfilter/intake kits to smooth airflow and gain massive HP ( what? 2-3 if that?) only to get it negated by the brick wall intake manifold. I think this is the main reason why there's such a small performance gain by adding any type of intake kit.
How to remedy this problem (besides muting the author)? Picture the TB about 6-12" closer to the drivers side fender. Then picture the intake stretched out to the TB. A couple of major bends just got smoothed out and a hell of a lot less turbulence in the UIM.
I think this would hell a ton in making HP regardless of it being stock or modded.
It's not wrong. 
Bends in pipes don't create turbulence, they can slow down peak velocity but that is all. It is objects int eh airstream or rough spots and funny shapes that will cause turbulence.
Turbulence down where the fuel is injected is generally good, especially in the combustion chamber.
Up higher in the intake it has no benefit.
Rough intake runners will create drag on the airflow and slow it down. The best is to be smooth all the way down to where the fuel is injected as it goes in the head.
The pipes in the manifold are designed that way for a reason, straightening them out would provide a very minor performance benefit in the rpm ranges that the stock motor deals with.
A manifold redesign would take into account rpm range, camshaft profile, design power rating, valve sizes, and of course packaging constraints.
So don't knock it.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Thanks for all the replies! I was making an assumption based on my experiences with wet intakes (carbureted) where sharp bends were not condusive to making HP. Mainly because the fuel vapor would drop out of suspension with every sharp bend and restriction. I see it's not as important in a dry type manifold. Port matching and extrude honing the intake sounds like the best you can do with the existing manifold? Hone the UIM a lot larger then port match and blend the LIM may create a venturi effect that would help HP? Would a spacer/adapter behind the throttle body to help direct the airflow before it hits the 1st 90' bend be a waste of time? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to do mods that gain little for the $$'s invested  On the exhaust side, I plan on doing the Y pipe mod, possibly headers too. Send it off to Swain and have it all ceramic coated or just get header wrap and cover the headers and Y pipe. Keeping the heat inside the exhaust definately helps scavenge the cylinders w/o having to resort to a longer duration cam to get the same results.I'm relating this to my old 351C where this helped out immensely! Not sure if this old school tech relates as much to the newer generation engines BUT I'm trying to learn 
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i wouldnt wrap the headers...esp up here in the snow belt..they'll rust out pretty quickly
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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