Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle PRE - POST 1995 CD4E

The following is a partial quote from a thread in the TROUBLESHOOTING Forum. The reason I include the quote is becase I have just installed a remanufactured ATX in a 1998 Contour and I believe I have the exact problem discussed below.

Originally posted by unisys12:
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Bigtime update on my torque converter clutch solenoid problem.

This verifies the confusion as to why my connecter is black! Remember, I said that the low impedence solenoid body had the black connecter and was phased out during the 95 model year. During that same year, a new high impedence solenoid body was introduced that had a beige (natural) connecter. All CD4Es from the years of 93-95 can have either solenoid body with no adverse effects. Put one of the low impedence solenoids in a post 95 CD4E and there will be problems. It also verifies what Roadrunner was telling me in the end, that the code was being generated because the PCM was not sensing the proper amount of resistance from the solenoid, hence the code P0743 once the car reached open loop operation.



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I have just installed a remanufactured CD4E in a 98 Contour SE and I am having numerous problems with the shifting. The car seems to start in 2nd gear, immediately downshift to 1st gear and then shift back to second and then to third. It does this rather erratically. Also the Torque Converter Clutch seems to drop in and out when cruising at 50 MPH. The only DTC I get is a P0743. The reason I ask is because this is a 98 Contour and the remanufactured CD4E has a black Transaxle Harness Connector and I am measuring a TCC solenoid resistance of 1.5 Ohms rather than the 12.5 - 19 Ohms specified in the Mitchell manual. I do not remember what color the connector was on the old transaxle, the core has already been sent to the remanufacturer.

1. Do I have the wrong valve body installed in my transaxle?
2. Has it damaged the PCM?
3. And, most importantly, can anyone tell me where I can get some "official" documentation concerning the connector color and solenoid resistance?

I need to discuss this issue with the remanufacturer and I would like to have some documentation to back me up.

THANKS

Just for clarification here, but the solenoid pack connector I was refering to is the one located on the solenoid pack. The newer style (high impedence) should be Beige/Natural and the older style (low impedence) is black. The connector, which is part of the wiring harness, will always be black.

It sounds more like the Range Sensor is out of position. Maybe when the remainufactor installed it, they did not align it properly. Check that by...

1) Setting your emergency brake.
2) Placing the shifting in Neutral.
3) Check the MLPS alignment marks.
4) If they do not line up, loosen the bolt to the sensor and rotate it until they do. Take it for a test drive and see what happens.
5) If the marks do line up, then I would suspect a bad sensor was used during the rebuild process.


Having the wrong solenoid pack in your tranny will keep the TC from locking properly, but will not cause the other shifting issues you described. But, if you measured only 1.5 Ohms on the solenoid, then I would have to say that they either sent you the wrong tranny or installed the wrong pack during assy.

If you don't mind sharing... Who was the company you got the tranny from. Not for bashing purposes of course, because we all know that everyone is due a mistake or two. But I would like to follow this one, just to see how things work out.

Check that range sensor, but you are gonna have to do something about the solenoid pack.

Oh! And to answer your questions...

1) I've pretty much covered that
2) No, this cannot damage your PCM
3) Well, I don't about offical, but TransTec is a pretty well respected company. Here is a PDF that I have refered many people to. On page three, it has all the information you are looking for.

Phillip, Thanks for the very quick reply and the link. The connector in the picture is the one I was referring to and, that connector on my ATX is black. The resistance of the TCC solenoid is reading 1.5 Ohms so I definitely have the wrong solenoid pack installed in my reman ATX.
I do not want to reveal the name of the remanufacturer until I have had an opportunity to talk to them and see what they will do to rectify the situation. When I ordered the ATX they assured me that they would send me the correct ATX and, the invoice states it is for a 98 Contour.
I realized that I probably had two problems, but I wanted to resolve the configuration problem first. The reman ATX did not come with a new Selector Lever Position Sensor, I had to use the one from the old ATX. I alligned it properly when I installed the ATX and I have checked it twice since then The "D-" and the "slot" align perfectly. Do you know where I can find the resistance values for the selector?

Thanks again, You saved me a lot of research and headaches.

NORM

Here's some info you were looking for on the range sensor.

http://www.mazda626.net/index.php?s=4b7c80af322c95f0700134459982665e&act=ST&f=28&t=4879

For those too lazy to actually read the link...

6.For the CD4E with your gear shift in "neutral" you should have continuity(0 ohms) between pins 2 and 8 with the connector disconnected. Between pins 1 and 7 you should measure between 660 to 807 ohms.

7.For the CD4E with your gear shift in "reverse" you should have continuity between pins 2 and 8 with the connector disconnected. Between pins 1 and 7 you should measure between 1304 to 1593 ohms.

8.For the CD4E with your gear shift in "Park" you should have continuity between pins 2 and 8 with the connector disconnected. Between pins 1 and 7 you should measure between 3770 to 4607 ohms.

9.For the CD4E with your gear shift in "Drive" Between pins 1 and 7 you should measure between 361 to 442 ohms. Don't worry about the continuity between pins 2 and 8

Hope that helps out alot!!

"The resistance of the TCC solenoid is reading 1.5 Ohms so I definitely have the wrong solenoid pack installed in my reman ATX."

What shop made this mistake?

Is there any rebuild that is trust worthy? My body shop guy, the one I use through my insurance company, when I asked for a automatic transmission repair shop reference, refused stating that even he could not risk recommending a automatic transmission repair shop to anyone because it seems all automatic transmission repair shop just do not tell the customer what parts goes into the automatic transmission repair or what parts are damaged in the automatic transmission repair.

I have had too many shop guys tell me horror stories of automatic transmission repair shops making big mistakes like mistaking a failing sensor for a needed hard parts replacement.

Dare I say it; today's modern ATX are too complex to repair!

The rebuilder has agreed to send me another solenoid pack to install in the ATX. They told me I would receive it today (it's getting awfully late). They told me that replacing it myself would not void the warranty. I have already purchased a new Shift Lever Position Sensor. Even though I hate to just throw parts at a problem, I would rather replace it now while I have access to it and eliminate that as a possible cause of the shift problems I am encountering.

Yes, a new torque converter came with the ATX. I checked with the rebuilder, now they say it will be Nov. 30th before I receive the solenoid pack. So now I have to wait another 5 or 6 days before I can see if the MLPS fixes the shift problems. I already drained the ATX and removed all the screws on the cover in anticipation of receiving the solenoid pack.

I have received the replacement solenoid pack from the rebuilder. I have removed the pan and can see the solenoid pack and have one question. What is the best way to get the electrical connector around all of the interference??
THANKS!