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I've owned my 98 Contour since 01/99, and I finally got around to doing the throttle hang/moose fix! The throttle hang never bothered me that much but the moose would happen when it was hot, especially when my KKM intake was installed.
I was in the hardware store today and got a 1/2" pipe cap and a 3/8" pipe cap because I couldn't remember the right size. The 1/2" inch one I managed to drop down in the back of the engine compartment somewhere and I could not find it after 15 minutes of searching.
I saw the air comes from the big accordian pipe and splits 2 ways, one is about a 12" long dead end and the other goes into a silver saucer shaped thing (ok, I don't know what it is.) So, I used the 3/8" cap and instead put it in the hose coming from the accordian tube. I drilled a 3/16" hole IIRC. Seems to run fine, and no moosing so far.
My questions are, should it matter if I put it in the hose coming from the accordion tube and before the juncion, and what is that dead-end pipe coming from the junction for?
98 Contour V6 MTX, T-Red, 150k mi. Pic
SVT Dual Exhaust, KKM Intake, Donnely Mirror, Dension DMP3 Player w/80GB of MP3s, Wheelskin
95 F-150
91 Mustang GT
06 Honda Shadow Aero
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Originally posted by dbateman:
I saw the air comes from the big accordian pipe and splits 2 ways, one is about a 12" long dead end and the other goes into a silver saucer shaped thing (ok, I don't know what it is.) .... My questions are, should it matter if I put it in the hose coming from the accordion tube and before the juncion, and what is that dead-end pipe coming from the junction for?
1. The silver saucer-shaped thing is the EGR valve. No, it is not going to the EGR. It is going to the back of the EGR to the IAC valve.
2. It should not matter where the cap is. The goal is to disrupt the air flow to "break" the resonance (for the moose problem).
3. 12-inch dead end pipe is the 96 fix for the moose problem. It is supposedly the new design resonator. As you and I have discovered, it doesn't really help a whole lot. Another method, it the moose reappears is to try putting a hose clamp on the middle of the rubber hose and slowly tightening it until the moose disappears.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 227
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Ok, thanks for the info!
After a few days of driving with the throttle hang fix I love not having Mr. Moose around any more, and my idle actually seems more stable, but I have had one unfortunate side effect of the fix: my drive train slop is more prominent now. When I take my foot off the gas while the car is in gear, the car jerks a couple times.
98 Contour V6 MTX, T-Red, 150k mi. Pic
SVT Dual Exhaust, KKM Intake, Donnely Mirror, Dension DMP3 Player w/80GB of MP3s, Wheelskin
95 F-150
91 Mustang GT
06 Honda Shadow Aero
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 275
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{12-inch dead end pipe is the 96 fix for the moose problem.}
i need one of those i threw mine away because i thought it was not needed and put a copper cap in its place. Where can i get one?
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Joined: Jun 2005
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Originally posted by JustStock- Wikkid-:
{12-inch dead end pipe is the 96 fix for the moose problem.}
i need one of those i threw mine away because i thought it was not needed and put a copper cap in its place. Where can i get one?
Not sure if they sell just the 12 inch pipe or hose from IAC to inlet air duct (accordian tube) for the 96 moose fix. The set from IAC area to inlet air duct and inlet air duct costs $90. I would suggest that you purchase the 45 degree tube (F8RZ9H308AA) which goes from the IAC area to inlet air duct ($15) and use a clamp in the middle of the hose (to tighten) to try and eliminate the moose "visits" (if the copper pipe doesn't work).
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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