Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting loss of voltage? at high r.p.m.s

The other night, I'm getting on the highway, and as I approach redline, my headlights dimmed. I shifted to the next gear, the revs fell, and the lights went back to normal brightness. I went most of the way home on the highway, no problems, no idiot lights came on (why can't I have some gauges with #s on them, it's a @#$% SVT). I decided to try it again once I was almost home, and sure enough, at ~ 6k-6.25k the lights go dim, as soon as the revs fall back down, everything's fine.
I replaced the serpentine belt (don't believe the hype about a Goodyear Gatorback being any quieter than a normal belt, quite the opposite, but it sounds cool), and the tensioner seems to be doing its job admirably... problem still exists, but no indication of any problem under 6k r.p.m.s. I do still have an existing extended warranty on the vehicle, I will have to bust out the paperwork and read up. If it's just a voltage regulator (isn't that right on the side of the alt.?), I'll probably do it myself, as long as the volt regulator is cheaper than my deductible..
If this thread does not at some point contain the comment "don't go over 6k r.p.m.s", I will be very surprised.

Tis the beginning of the search for a new alternator. Accept my condolences.

Alternator brushes are worn out and are floating at high rotational speeds.

As indicated, alternator time.

Steve

Thanks for the prompt replies. You guys are basically confirming my suspicions (sp?). Alternators for these cars are not cheap! $200.00 for a 100% brand new one @ Auto Zone... Any recommendations on a place to get a quality alternator without having to take out a loan?

CEG members receive a discount at Signature Lincoln Mercury (speak to Bill Jenkins.. search for his name in Troubleshooting) or also call

Steve
Tousley Ford
White Bear Lake, MN
1-800-328-9552
Mention his "SVT performance" plan to receive up to 60% off OEM new items. (usually more than Bill Jenkins, but not always.. Bill's discount is right around 31-ish%.. Steve is USUALLY from 35-60% averaging 40-45.)

There is an alternator how-to in Duratec Maintenance under "Ray's How-tos"..

Not terribly hard, as everyone makes it seem.. just need the right combination of extensions, and sockets (I even wrote out WHICH combination you need.. lol)


Ray

Hey Guys,

I have this problem too, so I decided to bust out the multimeter.

I received some strange results, and would like your opinion.

First, the voltage across the battery after sitting for the night was about 13.3V.

This seemed normal, so I rigged up the meter so that I could see it during startup. This is where the results started to get a little strange.

After starting the car, the voltage jumped and stayed above 17 volts. Turning the radio up, high beams on, and fan on full would drop it to around 15.6-16 volts.

After turning the car off, the battery remained around 15.5, and slowly dropped. After about 30 minutes, the voltage still was up around 14.5

Any thoughts? What is required to test the voltage regulator?

Thanks Guys,
- Zack

Voltage regulator seems to be going out on your car, as I am sure you are aware of the desired voltages:

running: 14.2-14.7
off, and with surface charge removed: 12.0 or higher


Ray

i can get alternators brand new for your duratec for 125.00 not including shipping but i will ship ups. check rates my zip is 45011

I have no idea what they "usually" go for, but also check
Bill Jenkins of Signature Lincoln Mercury
(search Troubleshooting for his website and 800 number.. you get a CEG discount...)

and also try

Steve at Tousley Ford
(Search Troubleshooting for his 1-800 number as well, as he can usually net about 45-50% off of new OEM parts. Mention his "SVT" plan to get the discount (you don't need to own an SVT)


Ray

Thanks guys, but my baby is still under warranty.